DAY 1: Los Angeles,
California to Guam, U.S.A.
Depart Los Angeles for Guam. As we will lose a day crossing the
International Dateline en route.
DAY 2: Guam, U.S.A.
Upon arrival in Guam, we will be met by a Society Expeditions escort, who
will guide us to a deluxe hotel, where we will overnight.
DAY 3: Guam, U.S.A.
We will begin the day with a tour of this United States Territory, which
will include stops at WWII historic sites. Our tour will conclude at the
"New" World Discoverer, where we will settle in, meet our
expedition staff, and enjoy the first of many gourmet meals onboard.
DAY 4: Gaferut Atoll, Yap State, Federated
States of Micronesia.
A tiny, shimmering isle rising out of an azure sea, Gaferut is the
archetypal South Pacific atoll. Like many atolls, Gaferut is an important
and isolated site for bird and turtle nesting. Birders can expect to see
three species of boobies, two species of noddies, and three species of
terns, including the elegant Fairy Tern. Spectacular snorkeling can be had
right from the shore as we step from the apricot sand into the balmy
Pacific waters for our first glimpse at paradise underwater.
DAY 5: Ifaluk Atoll, Yap State, Federated
States of Micronesia.
Remote Ifaluk has long eschewed outside influences. Their efforts have
resulted in an island that remains powerfully traditional. Westerners are
a very rare sight, so this visit will be a unique cultural experience for
all involved. The charming islanders will perform traditional dances for
us and proudly escort us around their village. The diving and snorkeling
around Ifaluk is, in a word, spectacular. Due to the remote location of
this atoll, few people have ever explored the reef system. Be among the
first to view this pristine marine ecosystem.
DAY 6: At Sea.
Join Society Expeditions lectures and naturalists on deck today as we
search for seabirds and other local wildlife. A full program of lectures
will be offered throughout the day. Today is also a good day to catch up
on your journals and postcards, browse the "New" World
Discoverer’s excellent reference library, or relax with your fellow
passengers.
DAY 7: Wuvulu Island, Papua New Guinea.
Wuvulu’s two villages, named after the rising and setting sun, reflect
the Micronesian influence of this Melanesian island. The affable villagers
dwell in homes of sago palm amid dreamlike surroundings. The beliefs of
the islanders prohibit them from eating many indigenous creatures. As a
result, Wuvulu exists as an unintentional nature preserve. A variety of
birds and mammals thrive here, as well as a strong population of sea
turtles. The reef offers superlative diving, snorkeling, and glass-bottom
boat excursions, often with virtually unlimited visibility. Along with a
veritable rainbow of tropical fish and corals, we should encounter green
sea turtles in abundance.
DAY 8: Ali Island, Papua New Guinea.
Ali is a wonderful island far out of local transport or shipping routes.
Ali Islanders seldom get visitors of any kind, let alone Western visitors.
Our call is an exciting time for both the "New" World
Discoverer’s guests and for the islanders themselves. They may entertain
us with a magnificent sing sing ceremony and will delight in sharing their
way of life with us.
DAY 9: Murik Lakes, Sepik River, Papua New
Guinea.
Houses on stilts attest to the very moist nature of the Murik Lakes
region. The lakes are fed by the extensive Sepik River system, which
meanders across hundreds of miles of New Guinea. We will tour along the
winding Sepik under cover of the impenetrable forest canopy. Village life
along the Sepik is very traditional, with the locals relying strongly on
sago palm for their way of life. We will call on some of these villages,
where we will have a glimpse into life on this powerful waterway.
DAY 10: Madang, Papua New Guinea.
Madang has been called "the prettiest town in the South
Pacific," due in part to its dramatic location on the tip of a
peninsula encircled by mountains. Madang is also a major cultural center
where a variety of tribes come together to take part in the arts trade.
Flying foxes also congregate in Madang, with several roosts located right
in the downtown area. Madang is also another hot spot for diving and
snorkeling, with abundant populations of sharks, sea turtles, and hundreds
of species of nudibranch (brilliantly colorful sea slugs).
DAY 11: Long Island, Papua New Guinea.
Long Island is an isle of fascination for a variety of reasons, not least
of them its irritable volcano. An eruption of this very cone is believed
to have been responsible for a mythical time of darkness in Papua New
Guinea. While the caldera creates an inhospitable environment, the
surrounding slopes support a rich forest and spectacular bird life. Along
the black sand shore, odd megapode birds lay their broods in the
geothermally heated sand. Offshore, hard corals create an underwater
paradise inhabited by schools of fearless tropical fish.
DAY 12: Kitava Island, Trobriand Islands,
Papua New Guinea.
Often called the "Islands of Love," the Trobriands are both
picturesque and uniquely traditional due to the inhabitants’ ardent
devotion to their way of life. The islands are part of the fascinating
kula trade ring, in which a finite set of objects is continually traded
over a one thousand mile circuit in traditional open canoes. We will seek
examples of the kula ealth while visiting Kitava, where the islanders will
perform spectacular dances while adorned in magnificent ceremonial dress.
DAY 13: Calvados Chain, Louisiade Archipelago,
Papua New Guinea.
Another link in the kula chain, the Louisiades are islands of dense jungle
inhabited by unusual arboreal monitor lizards and a plethora of colorful
bird species. These islands break into literally hundreds of landmasses of
varying size. They support many isolated settlements, all of which retain
deeply traditional cultures. The Louisiades are a first for Society
Expeditions, so today will be a true expedition stop.
DAY 14: Louisiade Archipelago, Papua New
Guinea.
We will spend a second day exploring this remote tropical archipelago.
Depending on local conditions, we may have opportunities for nature walks,
diving and snorkeling excursions, or cultural visits. Beyond the
Louisiades, the reef system gives way to open ocean, which we will
traverse en route to Vanuatu.
DAY 15: At Sea.
Today we skirt the Coral Sea on our way to the Torres Islands of Vanuatu.
A full program of lectures will be offered, along with leisure time.
DAY 16: Loh Island, Torres Islands, Vanuatu.
The Torres were among the last South Pacific islands to be reported by
European explorers. Far flung from the rest of Vanuatu, they have a
distinct culture with many Solomon Island influences. Succulent coconut
crab forms a regular part of the staple diet on Loh, as the crabs are
particularly prevalent here. The island is also home to unusual megapode
birds, whose brooding behavior resembles that of reptiles. We may also
spot flying foxes as we tour the tiny village of about 120 people. We may
even witness displays of the sorcery for which Vanuatu is famed.
DAY 17: Tomman Island, Vanuatu.
The friendly islanders of Tomman will welcome us onto their golden beaches
and honor us with an authentic dance ceremony. The Tomman Islanders have a
fading tradition of head binding, in which an infant’s head is tightly
wrapped in order to reshape the skull into a more elongated form
associated with power, holiness, and intelligence.
DAY 18: Tanna Island and Aniwa Island,
Vanuatu.
Tanna has achieved great anthropological fame for its enigmatic John Frum
cargo cult. Based loosely on a combination of Christianity, recent
history, and indigenous beliefs, this unique religion has its roots in an
alleged visit from an American G.I. during World War II. This unidentified
G.I has become a god figure to John Frum adherents, who pray fervently to
be graced with Western consumer goods. Tanna is also distinguished by
lively Mount Yasur, a volcano that continuously releases lava from an
easily accessible crater rim. We will view the spectacular show from the
rim and meet some of the locals, who retain a remarkable degree indigenous
culture. Aniwa is known for its sandalwood and aesthetically perfect
lagoon. We will cool off in the protected waters of the lagoon with
diving, snorkeling, and swimming among our potential activities. We will
also have the opportunity to meet the islanders, who will present us with
traditional dances and a tour of their village.
DAY 19: At Sea.
Today we will be at sea en route to Fiji. Relax on deck, poolside, or in
one of the "New" World Discoverer’s several lounges. A full
program of lectures will be offered throughout the day.
DAY 20: Sawa-i-Lau, Yasawa Group, Fiji.
Prepare for an exceptionally warm greeting by the locals as we visit a
remote and highly traditional Fijian island. Indigenous dances and easy
hospitality will describe our village experience on this idyllic isles.
Densely wooded limestone caves offer a multitude of possibilities for
exploration. We will also have opportunities for snorkeling and diving.
DAY 21: Lautoka and Nadi, Vitu Levi Island,
Fiji and Los Angeles, California.
Today we arrive on Fiji’s largest island, Vitu Levi. This island is
remarkably diverse, with a sizable Indian population mingling with the
indigenous Fijian culture. After breakfast we will disembark the ship and
transfer from Lautoka to Nadi via motorcoach. In Nadi we will have use of
a resort dayroom for storage of hand luggage, rest, recreation, and
refreshment. You may choose to browse some of Nadi’s colorful markets,
visit the beaches, or relax at the resort. We will transfer to the airport
in the late afternoon to catch our flight to Los Angeles, and then on to
our hometowns.
Voyage Log Excerpts |
Mysteries
of Papua New Guinea Expedition
Date: September 18, 1999
Location: Ali Island
Today we would visit tiny Ali Island. Located just off the coast of
northwestern Papua New Guinea and far from regular shipping lanes, this
little islet has remained traditional and unspoiled. Ours would be a very
special visit, as we were the first ship ever to call on Ali.
An exceptional welcome awaited us
with dancing children and warm handshakes. One of the English guides told
us that all the islanders were up at dawn, watching the horizon for the
World Discoverer's arrival. They were all amazed at the size of the
vessel, since none of them has seen a ship before.
We were greeted by the village
priest, who had also prepared a special welcome for the German passengers
because a German company had supplied the building material for the roof
of their church. It was therefore his responsibility to honor the Germans
as representatives of a tribe who had done the villagers a good turn long
ago. Our expedition leader took this opportunity to hand over our homage
gifts to the village, mostly in the form of much needed school supplies.
Slow strolls through the neatly
swept, clean village, flanked by pruned hibiscus, crotons and slipper
flowers brought surprises at every turn. We were presented with our very
first sing sing (grand dance ceremony) of this cruise and the enthusiasm
and color displayed by the dancers was very exciting. Many of the men wore
loincloths of a flexible palm. The ladies wore grass skirts fashioned
fastidiously from sago palm. All were adorned with extraordinary
headdresses and other ornaments, creating a magnificent spectacle of sight
and sound.
Brad, our anthropologist, was an
expert on headdresses. He marveled at the Bird of Paradise plumes sported
by the ensemble, proof of the vast trading network that exists throughout
New Guinea. He spoke with a member of the community about the feather
trade, and was told that the islanders barter with the mainlanders for
them, offering large amounts of fish for just a few feathers. Feathers
from chickens, Sulpher Crested Cockatoo and Cassowary also had their place
on the headdresses.
The birders among us saw seventeen
species of wild birds, including local specialties such as the Tonesian
Crow and Pied Imperial Pigeon, both characteristic of coastal regions of
New Guinea. Migration was in full swing, leading to the appearance of the
Whimbrel, Mongolian Plover, Grey Tailed Tattler and Common Sandpiper. All
told, it was a wonderful and exotic day of birding.
Everyone was back onboard for
lunch and to catch our breath. After a scrumptious lunch, the Zodiac
shuttle made sure that we could go back to the island for some swimming,
snorkeling, and diving. It was quickly apparent why New Guinea is
celebrated for its diving. Tropical fish and vibrant corals surrounded us
as we glided along colorful reefs with virtually unlimited visibility.
Back onshore, some of us were lucky enough to get
gifts from the islanders of necklaces made out of shells. These were
offered as a show of friendship and after receiving one, it seemed as
though you had made a friend for life.
Our botanist Kay's lecture that
evening "The Dazzling Flora of Our South Pacific Adventure," was
a pictorial display of the many flowers that we would encounter. She began
with members of the hibiscus family: plumerian, bougainvillea, allamanda,
Pacific rosewood and many others. She then discussed entobotanical uses of
these plants in the different cultures.
Kay's talk was followed by
cocktails and an informal recap of the day's events with the lecture team.
We then adjourned to the dining room for yet another fabulous gourmet
dinner. After a bit of relaxing, it was off to bed in anticipation of our
adventures to come in this wonderful, exotic paradise. |