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of the South, where silence reigns, the majestic landscapes and nature in
all of its power are simply awe-inspiring. Pampas, mountains, lakes,
rivers, forests running down to the water's edge, archipelagos, fjords and
glaciers flowing from huge Campos de Hielos (Ice-fiields), succeed one
another in an endless series. Here, where the ice of the glaciers plunges
into the sea, the wind howls through every nook and cranny sculpturing
fantastic shapes in the mountainside. Today, when nearly every corner of
the world has been discovered and explored, Patagonia still silently
waits.
Thanks to the Camino Austral (Southern Road), a
beautiful road studded with rivers, waterfalls, forests, lakes, glaciers
and the occasional hamlet, one can tour a large part of this territory
between Puerto Montt and Puerto Yungay by road. In an impressive feat of
engineering, more than 1200 kilometers of road have been hewn out of the
forests and mountains since the late seventies. The warmth of the
inhabitants, pioneers who live far from so-called civilization and very
close to magical nature, comes as a pleasant surprise in the midst of sun
an immense landscape.
According
to those who know, the southern road really begins in the settlement of
Chaiten; the road continues ever southwards through forests and glaciers,
at times with mountains on both sides, crossing over rivers and through
settlements, and bordering spectacular lakes, to Puyuhuapi, a charming
village which is famous for its rugs with Tehuelche and Huilliche designs
and for its superb springs. Countless side roads branching off from the
main road which leads Coyhauique allow the traveler to visit unique sites,
untouched by man, where the world can still be enjoyed just as it once
was.
Lakes and fast-flowing rivers attract fishermen
to this zone, where salmon and trout abound, but the main attraction is
undoubtly lake San Rafael with its imposing glacier. Since it can be
accessed from the sea, the huge ice-wall of the San Rafael Glacier can be
admired from the iceberg studded lake. The peaceful silence of ice, water
and sky is only broken by the roar of large blocks of ice as they break
loose from the glacier. |



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Despite the difficulty and expense of getting to
the Laguna San Rafael, this glacier-filled, 1.7-million hectare park in
southern Patagonia is the most popular attraction in the Aisén region. It
encompasses some of the most spectacular fjord and mountain scenery in the
world and is dense with floating icebergs.
Much further south lies another of Patagonia's
major attractions, the Torres del Paine national park. The first
inhabitants, called Tehuelches or Aonikenk, named the mountain
"paine" which means bluish. The site was only discovered by
white men in 1870 and, since then, it has been increasingly visited by
people from every corner of the globe attracted by Chile's showpiece: a
world biosphere reserve with all the diverse scenery of Alaska in only
180,000 hectares. The Torres del Paine are spectacular granite pillars
which soar almost vertically for more than 2000 metres above the
Patagonian steppe. Cascading waterfalls, sprawling glaciers and dense
forests make it a truly awesome experience. Glaciers, lakes of fascinating
colors, dense Magellanic forests, and pampas where guanacos and nandus run
free are a few of Paine's attractions for all kinds of visitors. Sailing
trekking, climbing, horse riding, mountain shelters, camps or comfortable
tours and a five star hotel, everything is possible in this park patrolled
by high-flying condors.
At this point the Andean range is dismembered
into an archipelago as long as the distance separating Rome and
Copenhagen. This archipelago is even in width: thousands of islands
covered with flourishing vegetation, snow capped mountains and Andean
volcanoes, but behind the interior valleys covered in jungle and strong
current rivers, the vast plains of the pampa.
Thousands of places, still nameless, await the traveler. From
Magallanes to the South, the land is inspiring and tells of legends that
end in Cape Horn. Here the Andean range sinks into the Drake Sea to
reappear 800 km further South, in the Antarctic. This large region
of incredible scenery, where silence of uninhabited lands reigns over all,
is a suggestion for adventure.
Even further south, almost at the tip of the
South American continent, lies the mythical Strait of Magellan, which
joins the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Feared and defied by the most
intrepid of navigators, it was the obligatory route for all ships from its
discovery in 1520 until the Panama Canal was opened. Today it can be
sailed in the comfort and safety of the 20th C. on a magnificent cruise
which starts in Punta Arenas, sails through the straits, and then
continues even further southwards on a truly impressive route past
glaciers which tumble into the sea. One can also cross the Strait in
smaller vessels to Tierra del Fuego, an island which is half Chilean and
half Argentinean, and which was discovered at the same time as the Strait.
For more regional
information on Patagonia, go to: |