Brazil (Amazon)
Tabatinga
TABATINGA is not the most exciting of towns, and many people stuck here waiting for a boat or plane to Manaus or Iquitos prefer to hop over the border to Leticia for the duration of their stay, even if they don’t plan on going any further into Colombia. Tabatinga is the place to complete Brazilian exit (or entry) formalities with the Polícia Federal, on Avenida da Amizade (daily 10am–8pm; tel 092/412-2180). Tabatinga also has an airport with regular flights to Manaus. Many of the boats into Peru leave from here, and if you’re coming or going the other way most downstream boats start their journeys here too (south down Rua Tamandaré, then right after the Marine base), before really filling up at Benjamin Constant.
Accommodation in Tabatinga isn’t that great – a good reason to stay on the boat if you can or, if you really need a night of luxury, to try out the hotels in the the neighbouring Colombian town of Leticia. In Tabatinga, your choice is limited to the friendly but very basic Hotel Pajé, Rua Pedro Teixeira 367 (tel 092/412-2774; under $10); the fairly pleasant Hotel Rasgo da Lua at the start of Rua Marechal Mallet (tel 092/412-2571; $10–20); the Hotel Alto Solimões, Rua Marechal Mallet 440 (tel 092/412-2827; $20–35), which is something of a dump; and the nicer Hotel Te Contei on the main drag Avenida da Amizade at no. 1813 (tel 092/412-2377 or 413-2566; $35–50), which is entered up the rickety spiral stairway over the pizzeria of the same name. There are a handful of restaurants on the same street, including the Canto do Peixada, which does excellent river fish. Further along the avenida, towards Leticia, a number of lively bars and discos cater for the sleepless. In the other direction, Scandalo’s (Fri–Sun) and Amazonas Clube (Sun only, 8pm–5am) are the places for serious dance freaks – and prostitutes – as is Banana Café (Sat & Sun) on Rua Marechal Mallet. For live music (Fri & Sat), try Restaurante Bella Epoca on Rua Pedro Teixeira, or Bar Porto Seguro, a couple of kilometres west beyond the port for Manaus boats.

For money changing, forget the Banco do Brasil; you’ll get a better deal for travellers’ cheques at Câmbio CNM (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–noon), at Avenida da Amizade 2017, whereas for cash you’re best off crossing the border into Leticia.