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| Brazil (São Paulo State) |
| São Paulo - Practicalities |
| Orientation | |
| The prospect of arriving in South America’s most populous city, spread over an area of 30,000 square kilometres, is likely to seem a little daunting. However, while it’s true that urban development has been carried out with an almost complete lack of planning, São Paulo is far more manageable than you might imagine. Greater São Paulo is enormous, but the main shopping, entertainment and hotel districts are easy to move between, and the areas of historic interest are extremely limited. Even so, São Paulo’s streets form something of a maze and even for the briefest of visits it’s well worth buying a street guide, available at any newspaper kiosk. | |
| São Paulo’s traditional
centre is the area around Praça da Sé and Praça da República,
the two sections of the city bisected by a broad avenue, the Vale do
Anhangabaú, which in turn is bridged by a pedestrian crossing, the Viaduto
do Chá. The area around Praça da Sé is where you’ll find both the
Pátio do Colégio, which dates back to the early years of the Jesuit
mission settlement, and the commercial district of banks, offices and
shops, known as the Triângulo – originally comprising Rua
Direita, Quinze de Novembro, São Bento, and Praça Antônio Prado. The
area around Praça da República now forms an extension of the main
commercial district, but there are many hotels and apartment buildings
here, too.
The bairros to the east of the centre contained some of the city’s first industrial suburbs and were home for many immigrants, but with the exception of the Museu da Hospedaria do Imigrante there’s hardly anything of interest here. North of the centre is the red-light district of Luz, until recently known only as the rather seedy location of the city’s railway stations, but now being developed into a major cultural hub. Due north of here, across the Rio Tietê, is the Rodoviária Tietê, the city’s main bus station serving points throughout Brazil and neighbouring countries. Just south of the commercial district are Bela Vista – usually referred to as “Bixiga”, São Paulo’s “Little Italy”, focused on Rua 13 de Maio – and Liberdade, with its centre around Praça da Liberdade and Rua Galvão Bueno. Traditionally a Japanese neighbourhood, Liberdade is gradually being transformed by the arrival of new immigrants from other east Asian countries. To the southwest of the centre is Avenida Paulista, an avenue of high-rise office buildings which divides the city’s traditional centre from the Jardins, one of the most prestigious of São Paulo’s middle- and upper-class suburbs. Extending south and west are yet more plush suburbs, such as Itaim Bibi and Vila Olímpia, with upmarket restaurants and nightspots. Cutting across Avenida Paulista into the Jardins is Rua Augusta, which begins in the centre at Praça Franklin Roosevelt; many of São Paulo’s best restaurants and shopping streets are located around here. West of the Jardins is Vila Madalena, and beyond here Pinheiros, mainly residential neighbourhoods that are fast developing as two of the city’s most fashionable nightspots. Just across the Rio Pinheiros is the vast campus of the Universidade de São Paulo and the Instituto Butantã, while to the southeast lies the Parque Ibirapuera, one of the city’s great parks. Getting there |
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| You’ll probably arrive
in São Paulo by plane or bus, though there are train connections with
Bauru and Campinas in the interior of the state. Watch your belongings at
all times, as thieves thrive in the confusion of airports and stations.
São Paulo is served by two airports. Just to the south of the centre, the always congested Congonhas (tel 011/5090-9000 or 5090-9195) handles services within the state of São Paulo, but also operates the shuttle service (the Ponte Aérea) to Rio, as well as flights to some other destinations, including Curitiba and Belo Horizonte. Most other domestic flights (including some Curitiba, Belo Horizonte and Rio flights), and all international flights use the much newer Guarulhos airport (tel 011/6445-2945), 30km from the city. Note that bad weather frequently leads to the diversion of planes from Guarulhos to Congonhas. Congonhas and Guarulhos are connected to each other by air-conditioned executivo buses leaving at roughly half-hourly intervals (5.30am–11pm; $7). At similar intervals, buses link both airports with the western side of Praça da República (7am–9pm; $7). From Guarulhos there are more options: every 35 minutes there are buses to the Rodoviária Tietê (5.40am–10.10pm); and there’s also a bus service ($7) to the Maksoud Plaza Hotel, which stops off at the other top hotels around Avenida Paulista. Taxis are readily available at both airports: the fare from Congonhas to the centre is around $15, from Guarulhos about $25. At both airports there are taxi desks in the arrivals halls and you pay a fixed price depending on the distance of your destination. SET (Secretaria de Esportese Turismo) maintains helpful state tourist information desks at the airports (daily 7.30am–10.30pm); there are also casas de câmbio at both airports for changing cash or travellers’ cheques. There are very few train services now to São Paulo’s Estação da Luz. The train still runs to Bauru in the interior of the state of São Paulo, but the connection on to Campo Grande for Corumbá has been suspended. The only other useful service is to Campinas, though buses are considerably faster. To get to the city centre from the station, take the metrô (from the Luz station) or a taxi, which will cost $10–20. An extensive suburban train network operates from the Estação Júlio Prestes, at the edge of the city centre to the north. |
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| São Paulo’s public
transport network is extensive but traffic congestion and a seemingly
perpetual rush hour can make travelling by bus or taxis frustratingly slow
going. Matters are made even worse when it rains: São Paulo’s drainage
system cannot cope with the tropical storms and, as roads are transformed
into rivers, the city grinds to a halt – just take cover in a bar or lanchonete
and sit it out. The city’s metrô network, by contrast, is fast, clean
and efficient, though limited in extent. With your own car, the main difficulties of
driving in São Paulo are the volume of traffic and finding a parking
space. Otherwise, roads are well signposted and it’s surprisingly easy
to get out of the city. For more information, go to São
Paulo City Transport.
Shopping |
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| São Paulo’s shopping
possibilities are as varied as the city’s restaurants and, for
Paulistanos with the means, as important an activity. In the wealthy
southwestern suburbs of Cerqueira César and the Jardins, shops are far
more impressive than those in just about any other Brazilian city, and the
quality way above par. Even if you’re not intent on a spree, the
shopping centres and stores are worth a tour to experience the opulent
surroundings. And there’s a fine selection of markets, too, where
you can pick up a decently priced souvenir or two and some good food.
The widest selection of Brazilian music in the city can be found in Música da República, Praça da República, Centro, while Sebo do Disco, Rua Lisboa 45, Jardim América, is good for secondhand Brazilian records. A great place to buy records of all sorts is at Grandes Galerias, a down-at-heel shopping centre at Rua 24 de Maio, just behind the Teatro Municipal. For English-language books, try Cultura – São Paulo’s best bookstore – in the Conjunto Nacional building, Av. Paulista 2073, Cerqueira César, or Bestseller, Av. Tietê 184, Cerqueira César. Livraria Corrêa do Lago, Rua João Cachoeira 267, Itaim Bibi, has what is probably Brazil’s most extensive collection of rare and out-of-print books for sale. More English-language books, plus a wide selection of Portuguese works on Brazilian history and politics, are available from branches of Brasiliense, scattered around the city, and Seridó, in Edifício Copan shopping mall, Av. São Luís near Praça da República. The main shopping streets in the centre of the city are near Praça da República, especially the roads running off Avenida Ipiranga: Rua Barão de Itapetinga, Rua 24 de Maio, Rua do Arouche and, between them, Rua Dom José de Barros. Most of the stores around here sell clothes, but you’ll rarely find the latest fashions. One particularly curious shopping area can be found on Rua São Caetano, opposite the Parque da Luz, where over a hundred shops sell everything that could be possibly needed for a wedding. In recent years, the downtown area has been characterized by the huge number of street traders who have taken over the pavements. These have become a major issue in the city, with regular calls to clamp down on their activities. South of Avenida Paulista is where the money is, and where all the best stores are. There are lots of expensive designer boutiques, especially in the streets running parallel to and crossing Rua Augusta, most notably Rua Oscar Freire, Alameda Lorena, Rua Haddock Lobo, Rua Bela Cintra and Rua Dr Melo Alves. There are no obvious “souvenirs” of São Paulo, but the following places are worth checking out for unusual Brazilian items:
Shopping centres |
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The rich victors of the
Brazilian economic “miracle” wander São Paulo’s shopping centres
– air-conditioned temples to hedonism – able to feel utterly insulated
from their less fortunate fellow citizens. Each centre tries to outdo the
other, with mirrored walls and ostentatious fountains – you won’t feel
closer to North America than this during your stay in Brazil. All the
shopping centres are open Monday–Saturday 10am–10pm, and Sunday after
lunch to around 7pm.
Markets |
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| There’s lots of choice
here, from handicrafts to flowers, and one – the Mercado Municipal –
that ranks as one of the best markets in Brazil. The different bairros
also have their own markets.
Antiguidades e Artes, Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros (Sat & Sun 9am–6pm). You may even pick up the odd bargain here; cheaper and a larger collection of bric-a-brac than the similar market beneath MASP. There are some good restaurants around the square and food stalls in the market itself.
Avoiding trouble in São Paulo |
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| Assaults and robberies are
favourite topics of conversation amongst Paulistanos, with the city’s
crime statistics now consistently higher than those of Rio. Nevertheless,
by using a little common sense you’re unlikely to encounter any real
problems. With such a mixture of people in São Paulo, you’re far less
likely to be assumed to be a foreigner than in most parts of Brazil, and
therefore won’t make such an obvious target for pickpockets and other petty
thieves.
At night, though, pay particular attention around the central red-light district of Luz, location of the city’s main train stations and – though not as bad – around Praça da República. Also take special care late at night in Bixiga (Bela Vista), or if you venture into Praça Roosevelt. Always carry at least some money in an immediately accessible place so that, if you are accosted by a mugger, you can quickly hand something over before he starts getting angry or panicky. If in any doubt at all about visiting an area you don’t know, don’t hesitate to take a taxi. |
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| Eating out is an
important pastime for middle- and upper-class Paulistanos. The vast number
of restaurants in the city is a source of great pride; people like to
claim that São Paulo’s range of restaurants is second only to New
York’s. Certainly, the variety of eating options is one of the great
joys of São Paulo, though the quality is often disappointing, not least
at the more expensive end of the scale. For more information, go to Eating
out in São Paulo.
Bars, nightlife and entertainment |
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| Whether you’re after
“high culture”, live music, a disco or just a bar to hang out in, you
won’t have much of a problem in São Paulo. There are four main centres
for nightlife in São Paulo: Bixiga, with good bars and live music;
Jardins, with some good neighbourhood bars; Itaim Bibi and Vila
Olímpia, best known for its flashy nightclubs; and Vila Madalena
and adjoining Pinheiros, fast becoming known for its trendier,
slightly “alternative” scene. Some ideas of where to go are detailed
below, but for the full picture of what’s on and where consult the
weekly Veja, the daily Folha de São Paulo (especially its
Friday Noite Ilustrada supplement), or the Guia Internet São
Paulo Web site (www.guiasp.com.br). Places come and go in São
Paulo at a bewildering speed and so on-the-spot advice is vital.
São Paulo has a large gay population but clubs and bars tend to be mixed rather than specifically gay, with the scene mainly in the Jardins area. Bars |
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The bars that you’ll
find scattered throughout the city depend largely upon the neighbourhoods
that they’re in for their character. Some of the liveliest, a few with
live music, are found around Rua 13 de Maio in Bixiga (Bela Vista), and in
fashionable Vila Madalena and Pinheiros.
Live music and dancing |
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| São Paulo has quite an
imaginative jazz tradition. The Bourbon Street Music Club,
Rua dos Chanés 127, Moema, has a consistently good, though very expensive
(entrance is $17), programme including visiting international artists and
frequent festivals. In newly fashionable Vila Madalena, there are several
jazz venues, probably the best being Blen Blen Brasil, Rua Inácio
Pereira da Rocha 520. In Bixiga, the Café Piu-Piu (closed Mon), at
Rua 13 de Maio 134, is a lively venue for some very good jazz and choro,
as well as the most appalling rock and country-and-western music.
If it’s more obviously Brazilian music that you’re seeking, check the newspaper entertainment listings for touring artists or, if feeling slightly adventurous, you could go to a gafieira, a dance hall that’s the meeting place of working-class and Bohemian chic. A gafieira that’s always packed to the rafters with migrants from the Northeast dancing to forró is Pedro Sertanejo, Rua Catumbi 183, Brás (Sat 9pm–4am, Sun 8pm–midnight). Be warned that gafieiras tend to be out of the centre and can seem rather alien and disconcerting places if you’ve only just arrived in Brazil. The Avenida Club, Av. Pedroso de Morães, Pinheiros, is the best-known place in São Paulo for formal dancing – everything from ballroom to samba, forró and merenque. To discover how the lambada should really be danced, try the Som de Cristal at Rua Rego Freitas 470, Centro. Regular performances of Brazilian folk, popular and New Wave music are given at the Centro Cultural de São Paulo, at Rua Vergueiro 1000 (by the Vergueiro metrô station), and are either free or charge only a modest admission fee. If you’re around, one of the most enjoyable outings is to the Clube do Choro, held on Saturday and Sunday nights in Jardim América (at Rua João Moura, between Rua Artur Azevedo and Rua Teodoro Sampaio); the street is closed off, a stage erected and tables and chairs put out so that you can sit and listen to some excellent music. There’s a small cover charge and food and drink are available, too. Discos and clubs |
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Cinema, theatre and classical music |
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| In general, films
arrive in São Paulo simultaneously with release in North America and
Europe, and are subtitled rather than dubbed. Charging around $4, most
cinemas are on Avenida Paulista, but there are also several downtown on
Avenida São Luís. All the shopping centres have cinema complexes and
show the latest blockbusters. Keep a special eye out for what’s on at
CineSesc, Rua Augusta 2075 (Cerqueira César); Bixiga, Rua 13 de Maio
(Bixiga); Espaço Unibanco de Cinema, Rua Augusta 1475 (Cerqueira César);
and the Centro Cultural de São Paulo, Rua Vergueiro 1000, by the
Vergueiro metrô station – all of which are devoted to Brazilian and
foreign art films. Art-house films are also shown at the Belas-Artes at
Rua da Consolação 2423, on the corner of Avenida Paulista.
São Paulo is Brazil’s theatrical centre and boasts a busy season of classical and avant-garde productions; a visit to the theatre is worthwhile even without a knowledge of Portuguese. Seats are extremely cheap, available from ticket offices that have details of all current productions: Casa do Espectador, Rua Sete de Abril 127, Centro (Mon–Fri 10am–6pm); and Vá ao Teatro, Shopping Ibirapuera, Moema (Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 9am–3pm). The Brasileiro de Comédia, Rua Major Diorgo 311, and the Teatro Sérgio Cardoso, Rua Rui Barbosa, both in Bixiga, have particularly good reputations. The traditional focal point for São Paulo’s vibrant opera and classical music season is the Teatro Municipal (tel 011/222-8698), in Praça Ramos de Azevado in the city centre, where, in the 1920s, Villa-Lobos himself performed. As an operatic and classical music centre, São Paulo has always been less important than Rio, but now Brazilian and foreign performers divide their time between the two cities. The beautifully renovated Estação Júlio Prestes (tel 011/223-5199) in the bairro of Luz is the home of the world-class Orquestra Sinfônica de Estado de São Paulo and has a new 1500-seat concert hall. Many of São Paulo’s churches have free recitals, most notably the beautiful Gregorian chant at the Basílica de São Bento, Largo de São Bento, every Sunday at 10am. Accommodation |
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| Finding somewhere to stay
in São Paulo is rarely a problem and, as there are several areas where
hotels are concentrated, you should get settled in quite quickly. The prices
of hotels remain pretty much the same throughout the year, except in the
quieter summer months (December, January and February) when they may be
lower. Weekend discounts of up to fifty percent are often given,
especially at the better hotels that otherwise cater largely to business
executives.
Top hotels are priced at levels that would make a business traveller in Europe or North America gasp in horror, but it’s possible to find somewhere perfectly satisfactory for around $70 a night. Most budget and medium-priced places are located in rather seedy parts of the city where walking alone at night may feel distinctly uncomfortable, especially for a woman. The dangers, however, are often more imaginary than real and, by simply being alert and taking taxis late at night, you should have no problems. Downtown |
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In the traditional centre
of São Paulo, there are lots of fairly inexpensive and medium-priced
hotels in the streets around Praça da República. Cheap rooms can be
found in hotels towards Estação da Luz in the Santa Ifigénia district,
but many of these are aimed at either long-stay guests or couples checking
in for an hour or two, and at night the area has a distinctly dangerous
edge to it. The Praça da República area has a more comfortable feel,
though there are still a lot of suspicious-looking individuals milling
around.
Jardins |
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The south side of Avenida
Paulista marks the beginnings of Jardins, a wealthy residential
neighbourhood which houses some of the city’s most fashionable (and
expensive) shops and restaurants. There are only a few accommodation
options here, but it’s a very pleasant area and one that feels safe both
in the daytime and at night.
Liberdade |
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Liberdade, São Paulo’s
Japanese bairro, has a few medium-priced hotels that are well-worth
considering – not least because the area is considered one of the safest
parts of central São Paulo. Although the overwhelming majority of people
staying here are either Japanese-Brazilians or visiting Japanese
businessmen, other guests are made to feel just as welcome.
Rua Augusta and around |
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The area is best known for
the Cá d’Oro, Caesar Park and Maksoud Plaza –
three of São Paulo’s finest and most expensive hotels. However, along
and just off Rua Augusta are some far more affordable options worth
seeking out. The hotels here are ideally located, convenient for the city
centre, the international banks of Avenida Paulista and the fashionable
Jardins. The area is quite safe, though walking along Rua Augusta late at
night can be unpleasant as you’re likely to be accosted by men touting
on behalf of sleazy nightclubs.
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