Brazil (Rio de Janeiro State)
Espírito Santo
Espírito Santo, a compact combination of mountains and beaches, is one of the smallest states in Brazil (with a population of only 2.6 million), but as Minas Gerais’ main outlet to the sea it is strategically very important. More iron ore is exported through its capital, Vitória, than any other port in the world. Not surprisingly the preponderance of docks, rail yards and smelters limits the city’s tourist potential, despite a fine natural location. 

To a mineiro, Espírito Santo means only one thing: beaches. The coastline is basically one long beach, some 400km in length and, during weekends and holiday seasons, people flock to take the waters, tending to concentrate on the stretch immediately south of Vitória, especially the large resort town of Guarapari. The best beaches, however, lie on the strip of coastline 50km south of Guarapari.
The hinterland of Vitória, far less visited, is exceptionally beautiful, a spectacular mix of lush forest, river valleys, mountains and granite hills. It’s here that the state’s real pleasures lie. The soils of this central belt are fertile, and since the latter part of the nineteenth century the area has been colonized by successive waves of Italians, Poles and Germans. Their descendants live in hillside homesteads and a number of small, very attractive country towns which combine a European feel and look with a thoroughly tropical landscape. If it weren’t for the heat and the hummingbirds darting around, you might imagine yourself somewhere in Switzerland. The best way to view the region is to make the round of these towns: Santa Teresa, Santa Leopoldina, Santa Maria, Domingos Martins and Venda Nova – the last near the remarkable sheer granite face of Pedra Azul, one of the least-known but most spectacular sights in the country. All are easy to get to from Vitória, not more than a couple of hours over good roads, with frequent buses. Around the towns, the lack of mineral deposits and the sheer logistical difficulties in penetrating such a hilly area have preserved huge chunks of the Mata Atlântica, the lush semi-deciduous forest that once covered all the coastal parts of southern Brazil. Credit should also go to the local Indians, notably the Botocudo, whose dedicated resistance pinned the Portuguese down throughout the colonial period.

Inland from Vitória
In the hills and mountains inland from Vitória are several small towns surrounded by superb walking country, great for a day-trip or as a base for a relaxing few days. You can easily spot where the first immigrants came from: the houses and churches of Santa Teresa look as Italian as those of Domingos Martins, Santa Leopoldina or Santa Maria look German. The smallest of these towns, Venda Nova, is home to the remarkable sight of Pedra Azul, a grey granite finger almost 1000m high, one of the unsung natural wonders of Brazil. If you’re heading for Minas Gerais, Venda Nova lies on the main Vitória–Belo Horizonte highway, Domingos Martins just off it. The area is a popular destination for residents of Vitória, so if you plan to stay over a weekend – in particular in winter, when the novelty of the region’s chilly temperatures is an added lure – pre-booking accommodation is advisable.

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