| When temperatures plunge to 15°C, São
Paulo’s citizens generally shiver and reach for their mothballed
woollens. But to experience something approaching genuine cold weather
they have to head into the highlands. East of the city, in the direction
of Rio, is the Serra da Mantiqueira, which boasts the lively winter
resort of CAMPOS DO JORDÃO, 1628m above sea level. The town lies
on the floor of a valley, littered with countless Swiss chalet-style
hotels and private houses, and divided into three sections: Abernéssia,
the older commercial centre and location of the Rodoviária; and, a
fifteen-minute bus ride away, Juaguaribe and Capivari, where
most of the boutiques, restaurants and hotels are concentrated. |
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| The novelty of donning
sweaters and legwarmers draws the crowds, who spend their days filling in
the time before nightfall when they can light their fires. Nevertheless,
in all directions from Capivari there are good walks, and trails
are well signposted. Much of the land has been stripped of forest cover to
make way for cattle pasture, but in the higher reaches you’ll still come
across remains of the graceful araucária (Paraná pine) trees that
once dominated the natural vegetation hereabouts. For a good view
over Campos do Jordão and the surrounding Paraíba valley, take the ski
lift from near the small boating lake in the centre of Capivari: it
whisks you up to the Morro do Elefante, where you can hire horses.
Practicalities |
| Despite there being dozens
of hotels, finding a room is difficult, and finding an affordable
one – at any rate during the winter months of June and July – can be
impossible. One of the more reasonable places is the small and pleasant Pousada
Recanto do Sossego, Praça Benedito Albino Rodrigues (tel
012/262-4224; $20–35), in Abernéssia. Otherwise, you’re best off
walking along the tree-lined Avenida Macedo Soares (Capivari), where many
of the cheaper hotels are located, including the Casa São José at
no. 827 (tel 012/262-8206; $35–50), and the Nevada at no. 27 (tel
012/262-3735; $35–50). Before accepting a room, check that it has an
electric fire as even on warm summer days it can get quite chilly at
night. Also in Capivari there’s a small youth hostel, Elis
Regina II (tel 012/263-2732; $8 a night), at Rua Benigno Ribeiro 320,
but at weekends it’s often fully booked. One of Campos de Jordão’s
more interesting hotels, the Duas Quedos Park, Rua Manoel Ribeiro
de Toledo 255, Vila Britânia (tel 012/262-2492; $70–90), is situtated
in a beautiful park with waterfalls nearby; the hotel also has simple
chalets to rent which sleep six to eight people for $50–90 per chalet.
Another scenic place is the Veredas (tel 012/263-2626; $70–90) at
Rua 5, Vila Floresta, in the hills 6km from town, offering panoramic views
and dinner included in the room price.
Most people eat in their hotels, so the choice of
restaurants is comparatively limited. But you won’t go hungry
since there are several pseudo-Swiss restaurants in which you can take
potluck: try Só Queijo, Av. Macedo Soares 642, or the Matterhorn,
Rua Djalma Forjaz 10. Nightlife is very much hotel-oriented, but
people also congregate around the splendidly kitsch “medieval”
shopping arcade in Capivari, drinking hot mulled wine at the top of the
arcade’s tower or – for a really big evening out – watching the
electronic thermometer. |