| One
of the very few large-scale areas of relief from the traffic and noise of
downtown is the green and shade of the Parque Municipal (Tues–Sun
6am–6pm). Beautifully laid out by the French landscape artist Paul
Villon, the park encompasses a boating lake, two thousand species of tree,
shaded walks much patronized by courting couples, aviaries, a permanent
fairground and exercise yards where Brazilian men make their sweaty
sacrifices to the national cult of the body beautiful. It also contains
the main arts complex in the city, the Palácio das Artes. |
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| The
Palácio das Artes (entrance on Avenida Afonso Pena) is one of the
finest modern buildings in the city, a complex of which the citizens of
Belo Horizonte are justifiably proud. So much so that when parts of the palácio
burned down in March 1997, reconstruction began barely a week later, and a
mammoth benefit show was organized in the Mineirão football stadium to
fund the repairs. Now fully restored, the palácio is divided into
a number of well laid-out galleries (daily 9am–9pm; free), with
exhibitions concentrating on modern Brazilian art, a couple of small theatres
and one big one, the Grande Teatro, which suffered most in the
fire.
Though it’s hard to believe in such a large
city, the palácio has the only shop in Belo Horizonte where
you’ll come across a really good display of the distinctive artesanato
of the state, in the Centro de Artesanato Mineiro (Mon 1–6pm,
Tues–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 9am–1pm, Sun 10am–2pm). A large shop rather
than a gallery proper, it’s nevertheless a place you can wander around
and look without being pressured to buy. Although there’s a lot of dross
here, there is also some excellent pottery – stubby figurines and
realistic clay tableaux. Distinctive though it is, you wouldn’t be wrong
in thinking that the best work looks Northeastern: it comes from the
valley of the Rio Jequitinhonha in the sertão mineiro, and
contains elements of both traditions. Hammocks, clothes, wall hangings and
rugs, roughly woven from the cotton that grows in northern Minas, are also
of a high quality. Despite the sleek surroundings, the prices here are
reasonable: not more than twice what you’d pay where the work comes
from. |