Brazil (Belo Horizonte [Minas Gerais])
Around Belo Horizonte
The most popular trips out from the capital are to the cidades históricas, but there are a couple of other less-frequented sites that also warrant a visit: to the north, the Gruta Rei do Mato are a convenient stop if you are heading for Brasília or Diamantina; to the east, lying beyond the nearest of the cidades históricas, Sabará, is the beautiful Parque do Caraça.
Gruta Rei do Mato
One of the most astonishing underground attractions of Minas Gerais lies 60km northwest of Belo Horizonte on BR-040, opposite the junction for Sete Lagoas, and makes an excellent day out from the capital. Legend has it that a mysterious fugitive originally discovered this enormous cave and used it as a home. He became known as “Rei do Mato” (King of the Bush) and the name has stuck to the cave itself.

The series of caverns (guided tours daily in summer, 8am–5pm; tel 031/3773-0888; $1) extends for over 2000m and is 300m deep in some parts, and includes some prehistoric cave art. The third room is particularly impressive, with two parallel columns formed by interlocking stalactites and stalagmites, and is regarded as the only equal in the world to the formations in the famous caves at Altamira in Spain.

Buses from Belo Horizonte to Sete Lagoas (run by Setelagoano; every 30min from 6.30am to 1pm), Diamantina or Brasília pass the cave; the journey takes about an hour. There is a bar open for refreshments at the site.

Parque do Caraça

A hundred and thirty kilometres east of Belo Horizonte lies the impressive Parque do Caraça (daily 7am–5pm, 9pm if you’re staying in the park), named after the impression of a gigantic face in the surrounding mountains. The park is situated at 2400m above sea level; temperatures drop sharply on summer evenings and it can get very cold in winter. There are plenty of signed walks of varying difficulty on the tracks through the mountains – information is available from the hotel at the park entrance. The park’s imposing lake provides a good opportunity for swimming from its small beaches, and there are also several natural pools by the waterfalls within the park. Buses from Belo Horizonte to Santa Bárbara (about 4 daily, run by Viação Pássaro Verde) will drop you at the entrance to the park, and a trip here makes an excellent weekend break from the city.

Santuário do Caraça

Situated at the only entrance to the park is the Santuário do Caraça, formerly a seminary and school, and now converted into a hotel. The school, famous in Brazil, was founded on the site of a hermitage and seminary in 1774, and for 150 years educated the upper classes of Minas Gerais, including generations of Brazilian politicians. In 1965 a fire destroyed much of the building, the theatre was burnt to the ground and the library lost two-thirds of its thirty thousand books.

The building was restored in 1991 and transformed into a hotel, the Hospedaria do Caraça (tel 031/3837-2698, reservations essential; $50–70), managed by the remaining members of the order. It’s a comfortable, low-key place to spend a few relaxing days. Some parts still remain from the original religious life of the building, including rooms for private prayer, a few bedrooms and the cellar. The neo-Gothic church of Nossa Senhora Mãe Dos Homens, added in 1883, was also spared by the fire, and has beautiful French stained-glass windows, marble and soapstone carvings and a seven-hundred-pipe organ built in the seminary itself.

There is a small museum attached to the church with exhibits rescued from the fire, including English and Chinese porcelain, furniture and a sundial. One of the greatest attractions of the place are the wolves (lobo-guará) which live in the surrounding woods. One of them comes near the church almost every day to be fed by the monks.

Countryside fazenda hotels

In recent years, with agriculture in Brazil increasingly dominated by large-scale agribusiness, small and medium-sized farms in Minas Gerais have had to look for new opportunities, and many of those set in particularly attractive countryside, or retaining a grand old fazenda house, have turned to tourism for an alternative source of income. Within just an hour or so of Belo Horizonte there are several superb country hotels, full of character and with great facilities. You will generally need your own transport, though arrangements can sometimes be made to be picked up locally – phone ahead. Reservations are essential, particularly during summer, July and holiday weekends.
  • Pousada Altos de Minas, Município de Nova Minas (tel 031/3981-1930; $90–125 full board) Delightful country hotel 25km from Belo Horizonte, set in attractive gardens with a pool. The restaurant offers mineiro food as well as international fare.
  • Fazenda Boa Esperança, Florestal (tel 031/3536-2344; $70–90 full board). Fazenda-hotel set in a working 450-hectare dairy farm, 45km from Belo Horizonte. The buildings are colonial-style and extremely comfortable. There’s a pool too, and horse riding is also available. Excellent country cooking.
  • Recanto dos Fonda, Distrito de Ravena, Sabará (tel 031/3673-1399; $50–70 full board). Set amidst 200 hectares of lakes and woodland in pleasant walking country, 40km from Belo Horizonte. There’s a swimming pool and good country food available.