Macapé

The countryside around Macapá is, like the Ilha do Marajó in the estuary, roamed by large herds of water buffalo. In town there is not a great deal to do. The highlight is the Fortaleza de São José (daily 8am–6pm), one of the largest colonial forts in Brazil, built in 1764 out of material brought over as ballast in Portuguese ships, in response to worries that the French had designs on the north bank of the Amazon. It is often closed, but nobody will mind if you slip through the enormous main gates for a stroll along the battlements. There’s an interesting daily artisan market nearby on Canal da Fortaleza, and you could fill some more time checking out the eighteenth-century Igreja São José de Macapá on the Praça Veiga Cabral and the Museu Histórico at Av. Mário Cruz 17 (Tues–Sun 8am–noon & 2–6pm). There’s also a small private museum, the Instituto de Estudos e Pesquisas de Plantas Medicinais (IEPA) at Av. Feliciano Coelho 1509, holding the Valdemiro Gomes collection of minerals, Amazon woods and medicinal plants (Mon–Fri 9am–noon).

Practicalities

Out near the airport, the Hotel San Marino, Av. Marcílio Dias 1395 (tel 096/223-1522, fax 223-5223; $70–90), offers more comfort and a pool, whilst top of the range for creature comforts is the Novotel on Av. Azarias Neto 17 (tel 096/223-1144, fax 223-5223; $70–90). But by far the best option, if you can afford it, is the Pousada Ekinox, a short walk from the centre at Rua Jovino Dinoa 1693 (tel 096/224-2440; $35–50). This small but lovely pousada, which doubles as the French consulate, is owned by a Frenchman and his Brazilian wife, and the food is as good as that combination suggests. It’s a popular place to stay, so you’ll need to ring ahead and make a reservation.

As for food, Macapá’s position as a river and sea port means that there’s plenty of excellent fish. The Lennon Restaurant downtown is a popular eating place, but greater variety can usually be found at the Restaurante Boscão, Rua Hamilton Silva 997. Excellent but expensive fish is served at Martinho’s Peixaria, Av. Beira-Rio 140, and at Cantinho Baiano, on the same street. The coast road in either direction from the fort has the pleasantest bars in town, always well ventilated by the sea breeze. For unrestrained night-time entertainment, try the Marco Zero nightclub, 5km out on the Fazendinha road near the equator mark.

For information about boats to the north or to Belém, the Captain of the Port, Av. FAB 427 (tel 096/223-4755), can be contacted at his offices most weekdays between 8am and 5pm. The main companies, all based at Porto do Santana, are ENAVI (tel 096/242-2167), with irregular sailings via Belém as far as Santarém; Senava (tel 096/223-9090) for sailings to Belém (Tues & Fri); and Silnave (tel 096/223-4011) for car-carrying boats to Belém (Tues & Fri). Penta, Canal de Fortaleza 45, almost opposite the Banco do Brasil building (tel 096/223-5226), offer flights to the eastern Amazon and Manaus, including a reasonably priced service to Santarém ($120); Varig, at Rua Cândido Mendes 1039 (tel 096/223-4612), has flights to Belém, Brasília, Rio and São Paulo. For car rental, contact Localiza (tel 096/223-2426 or 224-2336).

Into French Guiana

A more leisurely option is to go by boat from Macapá to Oiapoque, a journey of two days (one night); boats depart once a week or so, but there’s no regular schedule. If you’re interested in this possibility, you simply have to go to the docks and ask around: if a boat is leaving, seek out its captain and negotiate for hammock space, which should cost no more than $20 in either direction. The best hammock spaces are those with open sides, preferably on the middle deck.

If you are not a citizen of a European Union country, the USA or Canada, you will need a visa to enter French Guiana. There is a French consulate in Macapá at Rua Jovina Dinoa 1693 (tel 096/223-7554), though it’s better to try to arrange this before you leave home. If you’re going to travel overland, buy French francs in Belém or Macapá. You can get them in Oiapoque but the rates are worse, and you can’t depend on changing either Brazilian currency or US dollars for francs in Saint-Georges.

Dug-out taxis are the usual means of transport between Oiapoque and Saint-Georges, about ten minutes downriver. Brazilian exit stamps can be obtained from the Polícia Federal at the southern road entrance into Oiapoque; on the other side you have to check in with the gendarmes in Saint-Georges. The border along the Rio Oiapoque is still a sensitive one, although the last time there were actual hostilities was in 1808–17, when a Brazilian force crossed the border and occupied Cayenne. It was during this period that Brazil obtained the lucrative cayenne pepper seeds for its own export market.

Most travellers, in fact, cross the border the easy way – by flying from Macapá to the capital at Cayenne (around $180). Once you’re across the border you’ll probably want to fly from the border settlement of Saint-Georges to Cayenne in any case – or else catch a boat – since overland transport is atrocious.