Argentina (Buenos Aires)
San Telmo
It’s impossible not to be seduced by the crumbling ornamental façades and cobbled streets of San Telmo, one of the city’s most picturesque neighbourhoods and many travellers’ favourite place to stay. It’s a great area for informal sightseeing - just wander its streets and you’ll come across beautiful old houses, traditional bars, antique shops (particularly along Defensa) and even a thriving food market, the Mercado de San Telmo, in the block bounded by Defensa, Carlos Calvo, Estados Unidos and Bolivar. One of the area’s oddities is the Casa Mínima (Pasaje San Lorenzo 380), which has the narrowest façade (under 2.5 metres) in Buenos Aires.
Feria de San Pedro Telmo
Whilst most porteños would have trouble locating San Telmo’s borders, none would hesitate in locating its heart as Plaza Dorrego. This tiny square located on the corner of Defensa and Humberto 1 is the setting for the city’s long-running antique market, the Feria de San Pedro Telmo (Sun 10am-5pm; buses #9, #10, #24, #28 & #86) where, amongst the market’s quirky jumble of oddities, you may find your own personal souvenir of Buenos Aires. The window display of nearby Macramé (Defensa 1065), with its picture of the ever-smiling Carlos Gardel, Argentina’s most famous tango singer, nestling amongst old-fashioned gramophones, is famous enough to have appeared on postcards. Inside you can pick up sheet music for tangos from US$2. The bars surrounding the Plaza are tempting, but watch out for the prices. The best - and not too extortionate - is probably Plaza Dorrego Bar where the names of countless customers have been etched on wooden tables and empty peanut shells pile up amongst the beer glasses.

Parque Lezama and Museo
Parque Lezama, on the borders of San Telmo and La Boca (buses #24, #29, #86) is one of Buenos Aires’ most beautiful (and underrated) parks. Best visited in early evening when the sun filters through its tall palm trees, it is a hive of quiet activity with children running along its urn-lined paths and groups of old men playing cards or chess at stone tables. It is also home to dozens of stray cats, possibly attracted by the delicious smell of dulce de leche (Argentina’s favourite indulgence, a sweet conserve made of condensed milk) which occasionally drifts up from the nearby Canale biscuit factory. 

The park takes its name from its former owner, Gregorio Lezama, who also built the grand residence that has, since 1889, housed the Museo Histórico Nacional (Defensa 1600; Tues-Sun noon-6pm; free). The museum’s deep red façade with its white piped-icing detail is an elegant reminder of San Telmo’s days as Buenos Aires’ most exclusive neighbourhood. 

Inside, it offers the traditional mix of swords and portraits but there are a number of high points including the absolutely stunning Tarja de Potosí, an elaborate silver and gold shield given to General Belgrano in 1813 by the women of Potosí in recognition of his role in the struggle for independence from Spain. Over a metre tall, the shield seems to come alive with tiny and beautifully detailed figures of people, ships and fishes as you stand in front of it. If you need refreshing afterwards, the classic Bar Británico is perfectly located for a quiet contemplation of the park on the corner of Defensa and Brasil.