Argentina (Buenos Aires)

Nightlife

Buenos Aires is one of the world’s great 24-hour cities and porteños are consummate night owls. As well as bars and clubs (most of which don’t begin to get going until after 2am) the city has good theatres and cinemas, one of the world’s greatest opera houses and an alternative cabaret-style tradition where anything goes.
Babilonia, Guardia Vieja 3360 (tel 011/4862-0683). Tucked down a rather uninviting street by the side of the Abasto shopping centre, this is one of Buenos Aires’ most established alternative bar-cum-theatre-cum-music venues and probably a good place to meet one of the city’s many psychoanalysts. Bar Británico, Corner of Defensa and Brasil. Old men, bohemians and night owls while away the small hours in this traditional wood-panelled bar overlooking Parque Lezama. Open 24 hours. Bar Sur, Estados Unidos 299 (tel 011/4362-6086). One of San Telmo’s most reasonably priced tango shows. Daily 9pm-4am; US$15. Boicot, Pasaje Dellepiane 657 (parallel to Rodriguez Peña between Viamonte and Tucumán). Women only discos on Saturdays from 1am. Bunker, Anchorena 1170. A well-established gay club in the heart of well-heeled Barrio Norte, somewhat similar to London’s Heaven. Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun from midnight. Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas, Corrientes 2038 (tel 011/4953-0390). Affiliated to the University of Buenos Aires, this friendly cultural centre offers free events including live music (rock, funk and DJs) on Tuesdays at 8pm. El Chino, Beazley 3566 (tel 011/4911-0215). El Chino is the eponymous owner of this atmospheric bar in traditional Pompeya which is probably the best place to hear tango. Fri & Sat from 10pm. La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 722. One of Buenos Aires’s hippest bars attracting a young, trendy crowd (especially after Qubic on a Sunday night). Regular live music/DJs on Thursdays. Dadá, San Martín 941. A small bar playing jazzy music with kitsch decor and good but pricey food.
El Dorado, Hipólito Yrigoyen 947 (tel 011/4334-2155). The current favourite of Buenos Aires’ growing legion of dance music fans with one of most popular nights being Sunday for "Deep in the Underground". Gran Bar Danzón, Libertad 1161, 1st floor (tel 011/4811-1108). An elegant and fashionable cocktail bar and restaurant with sharply dressed bar staff and enveloping armchairs. La Ideal, Suipacha 384, (tel 011/4553-2466). It’s not quite as famous as the Tortoni, but this confitería is just as beautiful and has a great tango salon upstairs, with milongas (tango dances) on Saturday nights from 10pm. Morocco, Hipólito Yrigoyen 851 (tel 011/4342-6046). Theatre, nightclub and (expensive) restaurant, this place is popular with an arty/alternative crowd and transvestites. Free "live poetry" on Tuesdays and drum ’n’ bass on Wednesdays. La Morocha, Dorrego 3307 (tel 4778 0050). Currently one of most popular mainstream clubs where an energetic crowd work up a sweat to dance, funk and rock music. Fri & Sat US$15 minimum consumption. El Niño Bien, Centro Región Leonesa, Humberto 1° 1462 (tel 011/4147-8687). If you’ve come to Buenos Aires to dance the tango - or if you just want to see how it’s done, this is one of the most stylish places to do it. Thurs 11pm-4am. Qubic, Viamonte 845, 4th floor. Sunday evening "electronic teas" in unusual club with swimming pool and a laid-back, trendy crowd. Sun 6pm-midnight; US$5/US$8. Sarajevo Bar, Defensa 827. Apocalyptically named and eclectically decorated bar offering a quintessential San Telmo mix of poetry nights, tango and rock music. Shamrock, Rodriguez Peña 1220. An Irish bar with a porteño touch, this is a good place to meet foreigners - but watch out for the dart board placed perilously close to the toilets. El Taller, Serrano 1595 (tel 011/4831-5501). Bars and restaurants have sprouted around it but El Taller still has the best outside seating in one of Buenos Aires’s prettiest plazas as well as regular jazz events. Teatro General San Martín, Corrientes 1530 (tel 011/4371-0118). Three auditoriums offering a range of international and Argentine theatre as well as ballet and concerts. Teatro Colón, Libertad 621 (tel 011/4382 5414). One of the world’s great opera houses, acoustically on a par with La Scala in Milan, and Buenos Aires’s most glamorous night out. Café Tortoni, Avenida de Mayo 825 (tel 011/4342-4328). Buenos Aires’ most famous café offers pure elegance as well as jazz and tango in La Bodega downstairs. La Trastienda, Balcarce 460 (tel 011/4342-7650). Live music including rock, jazz and tango, with salsa dancing on Saturday nights.