| Argentina’s
great gift to world cuisine is undoubtedly the parrillada, a
grilled selection of beef and various cuts of offal including, if you’re
lucky, the highly-prized mollejas, or sweetbreads. Pasta, pizza and
empanadas (meat, chicken or vegetable pastries) are other national
staples, but if you hanker after Turkish, Basque or Japanese cooking, you
can guarantee that someone in Buenos Aires will be serving it. It’s
worth bearing in mind that most porteños don’t go out to eat much
before 10pm, so unless you want to have a heart-to-heart with the waiters
you should probably do the same. |
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- Centre
- Bice,
Avenida Alicia M. de Justo 192 (tel 011/4315-6216). Style
sometimes triumphs over content in Puerto Madero, but the
pasta and gnocchi at this highly regarded Italian restaurant
are unlikely to let you down. Expensive.
- Cervantes,
Perón 1883 (tel 011/4372-8869). An old standby, and a good
deal because dishes such as peceto al horno con papas
(roast meat and potatoes) are big enough for two. Cheap.
- Chiquilín,
Sarmiento 1599 (tel 011/4373-5163). A classic of its kind
serving traditional porteño dishes such as pollo al verdeo
(chicken with spring onions) in a friendly and stylish
atmosphere. Moderate.
- La
Cocina, Local 61-62, Galería Boston, Florida 142. This
Catamarcan eaterie is regarded as having some of the finest empanadas
in the city with juicy, hand-chopped fillings (vegetarian corn
or cheese and onion are also available) and delicious pastry.
Cheap.
- Güerrín,
Corrientes 1368. If you want a traditional porteño pizza
experience look no further than this Corrientes institution.
The classic order is a portion of mozzarella, fainá
(a pizza-shaped Genovese speciality made from chick pea dough)
and a glass of sweet moscato – eaten at the counter.
Cheap.
- Parrilla
Peña, Rodríguez Peña 682 (tel 011/4371-5643). Excellent
parrilla and pasta at a reasonable price in a bustling
atmosphere. Ask for a jugoso colita de Cuadril
if you like rare, tender meat. Closed Sat pm and all day Sun.
- Patio
San Ramón, Reconquista 269. Generous, well-cooked and
simple food with daily specials such as roast chicken with
sweet potato puree. The real attraction, however, is the
stunning location in the patio of an old convent where,
amongst palm trees and bird song, you might even forget that
you’re at the heart of Buenos Aires’ financial district.
Cheap.
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- North
- Afrodita,
Báez 121 (tel 011/4772-6527). This newly-opened restaurant in
the phenomenally successful Las Cañitas area offers
imaginative pasta dishes in a stylish atmosphere. Moderate to
expensive.
- Club
del Vino, Cabrera 4737 (tel 011/4833-0048). With a modern
Argentine menu including duck, lamb and seafood, this small
and elegant restaurant shares the club with a music venue
(tango and jazz) and a wine bar. Closed Sun; expensive.
- Filo,
San Martín 975 (tel 011/4311 0312). As much a place to be
seen as to eat, the food in this trendy restaurant is
nevertheless to be reckoned with. Imaginative pizza, pasta and
salads with dishes such as Venetian mussel soup with
Patagonian clams where Italy meets Argentina. Moderate to
expensive.
- Freddo,
Galerías Pacífico, Avenida Córdoba and Florida. Buenos
Aires’ best ice cream chain provides a compelling reason to
descend to the basement of this shopping centre on a hot day.
There are other branches throughout the city.
- Jin
Jiang
, Azcuénaga
784 (tel 011/4962-2734). Ask the waiters to guide you through
the specialities at the back of the menu (written in Chinese)
for authentic Chinese food including seaweed, duck etc. Cheap
to moderate; closed Tuesday lunchtime.
- El
Primo, Báez 302 (tel 011/4775-0150). One of the few
relative bargains to be had in swanky Las Cañitas, this
popular parrilla offers traditional porteño dishes
with a bit of flair. You’ll probably have to queue, but at
least they serve you a glass of wine while you’re waiting.
Moderate.
- Sarkis,
Thames 1101 (tel 011/4772 4911). Excellent tabbuleh, keppe
crudo (raw meat with onion – much better than it sounds)
and falafel at this popular Middle Eastern restaurant in one
of Buenos Aires’ most attractive barrios, Palermo Viejo.
Moderate.
- Soul
Café, Báez 246 (tel 011/4778-3115). Describing itself as
a "boogie restaurant", the food’s probably not the
point for much of the clientele of this pioneer of Las Cañitas.
Dishes are of the punning variety with "Pumpkin
Soulrentinos" on the menu for US$12. It’s not a bad
place to have a cocktail but, all in all, the place is a bit
too tasteful to really have much "soul". Evenings
only, closed Mon.
South
- Abuela
Pan, Bolívar 707. A homely vegetarian restaurant and
wholefood store offering a daily menu (two courses) for US$6
with options such as wholemeal pasta and plenty of salads.
Weekdays until 8pm.
- Almacén
y Bar, Cochabamba 1701 (tel 011/4304-4841). Serves
upmarket picadas (comprising Argentine and imported
cheeses, cured ham and shellfish) and has an excellent wine
list. Follow the advice of Kochi, the Japanese owner, to be
sure of making a good choice. Closed Sat pm and all day Sun.
- Basque
Français, Moreno 1370 (tel 011/4383-5021). For over a
hundred years, this restaurant has been serving up expertly
cooked seafood. It is expensive but delicious, and more
affordable if there are a few of you to share dishes. Closed
Sun.
- La
Cancha, Brandsen 697 (tel 011/4362-2975). A classic place
to spend a weekend lunchtime, in the shadow of La Bombonera,
the Boca Juniors’ legendary football stadium. Good fresh
seafood including excellent pulpo a la gallega (octopus
with oil and paprika) to share between two. Moderate.
- El
Desnivel, Defensa 855. One of Buenos Aires’ great
bargains, this popular, no-frills parrilla offers good
food at rock-bottom prices. Closed Mon.
- Laurak-Bat,
Belgrano 1144 (tel 011/4381-0682). Located within the Club
Vasco, the centrepiece of this restaurant is an oak tree
descended from the historic "Arbol de Guérnica"
which, according to Basque tradition, was planted by God. On a
more down-to-earth note, the restaurant offers Basque
specialities such as bacalao al pil-pil (salt cod in a
garlic sauce) with complimentary tapas and glass of sherry.
Moderate to expensive.
- El
Obrero, Caffarena 64 (tel 011/4362-9912). The atmosphere
(Boca Juniors souvenirs on walls, tango musicians moving from
table to table at weekends) is as much a part of the
attraction as the simple home-cooked and reasonably priced
food at this hugely popular Boca restaurant. Closed Sun.
- El
Puentecito, Luján 2101 (tel 011/4301-1794). Over a
hundred years old, this atmospheric restaurant is literally at
the end of the line (bus #12 from Congreso) in the traditional
barrio of Barracas. Well worth a trip for the generous puchero
(boiled meat and vegetables) and seafood parrilla. Best
of all, it’s open 24 hours. US$10 upwards.
- Del
Viejo Hotel, Balcarce 1053. A popular San Telmo lunchtime
spot, located within an old hotel which now houses artists’
workshops.
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