| Santa Isabel
Isabel, or Santa Isabel, was the first
point of contact by Europeans when Mendana chanced upon it in the mid
sixteenth century. It is home to a very friendly and peace-loving
Melanesian people, divided into about six language groups. There is very
little development on the island and no roads beyond a short stretch in
the Provincial Capital Buala, and the town of Kaevanga on the south coast.
Villages are all traditional, with beautifully kept leaf houses and
gardens.
The village of Kia in the north is of especial
interest, as it is built mainly on stilts over the clear lagoon waters.
All transport is by canoe, outboard or dugout. The island, the Solomons
Islands' longest, is a high, rugged one with a sharp spine of almost
impenetrable mountains (there are some inland villages in the flatter
parts of the south east). It is surrounded by a fringing reef and has some
of the most pristine and luxuriously rich waters and coral reefs anywhere
on earth.
The waters teem with fish, turtles and megapodes
breed on the sand beaches, the coconut plantations throng with parrots,
eagles and frigate birds soar the trade winds as they blow up the coast.
At night the lagoon waters sparkle with phosphorescence. There are
crocodiles in the many deep rivers.
In the far north are the Arnarvon Islands,
protected as a conservation area noted for a breeding area of rare green
and leatherback turtles. To the south west, the island of San Jorge is
known as a place of the dead, where spirits reside, and strange phenomena
are observed by overnight visitors.
Isabel Province is one of the least visited
provinces. It is serviced by Solomon Islands which flies to Buala (Fera)
and Suavanao in the north. Most villages have rest houses where the
culturally sensitive visitor will be most well looked after. The only
transport around the island is by outboard canoe, or on the Provincial
ship, the M.V. Isabella, which makes a weekly run up alternative sides on
the island. This is not a cruise ship but a very interesting experience as
it puts in to every village along the coast to take on passengers and
exchange cargo.
Arnavon Island Marine Reserve |