|
The south coast of Upolu
is a string of sparkling palm-fringed beaches where you can lie back and
enjoy an idyllic beachcomber's lifestyle. First up is the aptly named Return
to Paradise, made famous by Gary Cooper in the film of the same name.
It's not an ideal swimming beach, but then again it's not an ideal film.
The pounding surf and shallow reefs make swimming a hazard, but it's a
wonderfully scenic spot for a picnic.
The next beach is Matareva, a series of
safe coves and shallow rock pools that make for great snorkelling. Further
east are the beaches of Salamuma and Aganoa Black Sand Beach
and this is where you'll find the best swimming areas, while at the end of
the bay are more snorkelling reefs. If you keep going around the coast
you'll eventually get to the eastern-most tip of Upolu and here you'll
find the reefs of the Aleipata District. This is one of the most
breathtaking areas of Samoa with reefs of a brilliant turquoise blue and
some of the loveliest swimming beaches around. As with all swimming in
Samoa, be sure to ask locals first before diving in, and don't be
surprised if you're asked to pay 'custom', or a small fee.
There a number of ways to get around the south
coast region. You can catch a bus from Apia but locations that might be
close geographically can be miles away in terms of the driver's ambitions
for the day. Hiring a car is a reliable alternative even though petrol can
sometimes be difficult to rustle up. Taxis will take you to most points of
the island but agree to a price before you set out. You can also cycle
down the coast, which can be hard work in places, but is probably the most
rewarding way. At least there's always a beach nearby to cool you down
(remember to ask first!).O Le Pupu-Pu'e
National Park
This 2,850-hectare national park (tel. 24-294),
created in 1978, stretches along the insular divide from the summits of Mt.
Le Pu'e, the double-cratered peak east of Afiamalu, and Mt. Fito (1,100
meters), highest point on Upolu, right down to the lava fields of O Le Pupu
and the south coast. The park is intended to provide a habitat for the
endangered Tongan fruit bat, or flying fox (Pteropus tonganus). In
past these giant bats with one-and-a-half-meter wingspans would soar above
the treetops at dusk, but illegal hunting has sharply reduced their numbers.
At Togitogiga, 28 km south of Apia via the Cross
Island Highway, five km east of Siumu junction and just a short walk from
the main road, are beautiful Togitogiga Falls, good for swimming,
wading, and diving (middle pool). There are toilets, change rooms, and
shelters at the falls. After heavy rains Togitogiga Falls becomes a raging
torrent. It's crowded with Samoan picnickers on weekends.
An overgrown trail from the falls leads up to Peapea Cave, three
hours roundtrip on foot. It's hard to find the way on your own, so consider
hiring a guide at the house on the right just beyond a gate a few hundred
meters up the track. Beyond the cave, a trail continues north up the stream
another four km to a waterfall where you could camp.
A rough four-km road which begins two km west of
the falls leads across the lava fields to the black coastal cliffs in the
southern section of the park. It probably isn't worthwhile to hike all the
way down on foot and the road is too rough for a car, but you could do it in
a jeep for fun. The O Le Pupu Trail follows the coast east from the
end of the road, and the spent shotgun shells seen along the way are
disheartening.
It's possible to do O Le Pupu-Pu'e National Park as
a daytrip by catching a Salani, Sapunaoa, or Vaovai bus from the markets in
Apia, but you'll probably only have an hour or two at Togitogiga Falls. Ask
the driver what time he'll be returning to Apia, or better, get together
with other travelers from your hotel and rent a vehicle for the day.
Papasee'a Sliding Rock
Even the name sounds like
fun. The Papasee'a Sliding Rock is a 5m (16ft) slide down a waterfall
straight into a jungle pool. It's like Disneyland's Jungle Boy and
Water World combined. The slide, over real rock rather than faux rock,
sometimes has even the most hardened adventurer a little faint hearted but
there are a number of smaller slides to choose from if the big one looks
too daunting. Take the bus from the main market in Apia and then walk the
remaining 2km (1.25mi) to the slide. For
more general information
on Samoa, go to: |
