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The bridge above Falefa Falls previously mentioned
gives access to a little-traveled seven-km road east along Upolu's north
coast to Sauago and Saletele villages, an unspoiled corner of old Samoa
worth exploring if you have your own transport. After the twin village, the
onward track to Fagaloa Bay becomes much worse and only passable in a
vehicle with high clearance. Fagaloa Bay's flooded volcanic crater is more
easily reached via a steep sideroad off the paved road to Aleipata, a bit
north of Mafa Pass. A road continues along Fagaloa Bay's south side to
remote Uafato village, 14 km east of the turnoff. At Uafato one finds
waterfalls, rainforests, flying foxes, and legendary sites associated with
the demigod Moso, plus village fale accommodations (ask for Sulia)
and a daily bus to/from Apia. It's possible to hike east along the coast to
Ti'avea.
Eastern Upolu
Some eight km south of Falefa Falls, the road works
its way over Mafa Pass (276 meters), beyond which is a junction, with
Aleipata to the left and Lepa to the right. If you take the left-hand
highway or "Richardson Road" toward Amaile (Lalomanu bus) you'll pass
alongside the Afulilo Reservoir where Afulilo Falls above Fagaloa Bay
was harnessed in 1993 in a US$33-million, four-megawatt hydroelectric
development. Over half of Upolu's electricity comes from this and other
hydroelectric projects.
Aleipata and Lepa districts feature
many excellent and unspoiled white-sand beaches with good swimming but only
average snorkeling. The authentic ecotourism resorts of this area are
covered below, and a stay at one of them would allow the time to explore
this attractive area. Travel to the beautiful offshore islands at high tide
with fishermen from Lalomanu. Nu'utele Island, a leper colony from
1916 to 1918, is now uninhabited, and two beautiful beaches flank the steep
forested slopes. A trail to the volcanic crater behind Lalomanu begins
behind the hospital in Lalomanu. A large colony of flying foxes lives here
and a guide would be useful.
From Lalomanu it's seven km along the south coast
to Saleapaga. The Lepa bus runs from Apia to Saleapaga via Mafa Pass and
Lotofaga. Five km south of the pass, deep in the interior, are Fuipisia
Falls, signposted on the west side of the road. Just a 300-meter walk
inland from the road, the falls plunge 56 meters down into a fern-filled
valley of which you can get a good view from on top.
Three km south of Fuipisia, the same river plummets over 53-meter-high
Sopo'aga Falls. The signposted viewpoint is just a few hundred meters
south of the junction with the westbound road to O Le Pupu-Pu'e National
Park. A trail heads down to the falls from the viewpoint.
If you don't have your own transportation, you'll
probably have to walk the four km from Sopo'aga Falls to the Salani turnoff.
Buses run along the south coast from Salani to the National Park and Apia,
but they're infrequent, and there's next to no traffic, so you're not likely
to hitch a ride. The south coast of Upolu is more traditional than the
north, and the people take pride in keeping their villages clean and
attractively decorated with flowers. For
more general information
on Samoa, go to: |
