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Savai'i island is one of the largest
islands in Polynesia but one of its least populated. It's an untouched and
pristine island showing few western influences and the people of Savai'i
have maintained a way of life even more traditional than Upolu. There are
any number of first class beaches on Savai'i and the places that
aren't good for swimming are perfect for snorkelling. If you get
sick of the beaches, the reefs, and the laid back life of a beachcomber,
the interior of Savai'i is just as interesting.
The
island is just
20km northwest of Upolu across the Apolima Strait. It has only two
fifths the population of Upolu despite being one and a half times the size.
In fact Savai'i is the largest island in Polynesia outside of Hawaii and
New Zealand.
Much
of the fertile land was buried in the eruptions of Mt Matavanu between
1905 and 1911, transforming the northern side of the island and causing
the people to move to Upolu. However, the beautiful tropical rainforests
are still home to many exotic birds.
Traditional
Samoan villages line the coast of the island, but there is no main town like
Apia and public transport is scarce. There are very few taxis and rental cars
need to be arranged in advance.
On
the east coast, north of Saleologa wharf is the Rev. John Williams
Memorial, a tribute to the first Christian Missionary who arrived in 1830.
The beautiful lagoon at Lano village is well worth a visit and there is
great surfing on Lano's beach and snorkelling at nearby Faga. Eight
kilometres away in Letolo Plantation is the Pulemelei stone pyramid, the
largest remaining monument in Polynesia, as well as an idyllic waterfall
and pool.
Along
the southwest coast are a series of spectacular blowholes just a short walk from
Taga village. Not just another set of blowholes, there's little to equal them
anywhere else in the world. Deserted Fagatele Beach lies in the vicinity of Faleaupo-tai where
the villagers can be seen wood-carving adjacent to the Catholic church.
Olemoe Falls, also in the south, is a lovely jungle waterfall that
plunges into the crystalline waters of a deep blue pool, which is marvellous for
swimming and diving.
On
the north coast is lovely Papa village and further east one should stop for a
swim at Matavai's fresh water spring or at Safotu's freshwater pools. Inland
from Paia village is the 'short people's cave' where midgets are said to live. A
two to three hour walk will bring you to Mt Matavanu, the source of the 1905-11
volcanic outbreak, which is well worth a visit, as are the massive barren lava
fields at Saleuala and Aopo. The Matavanu lava fields, formed when the
volcano spewed and belched molten lava for nearly six years back in the early
1900s, is now an impressive moonscape, and a walk around the crater of the
volcano is a must for archeological buffs.
The
Tafua Rainforest Preserve is one of the most beautiful and accessible
stands of rainforest with rugged stretches of lava coast studded with caves and
lava blowholes. The other rainforest on Savai'i is the Falealupo Preserve,
which has a walkway canopy at the top of a stately banyan tree. For a few extra
tala you can eat and sleep up there too.
You can get to Savai'i either by air, with flights from Fagali'i
Airport in Apia, landing at Ma'ota airport on the south-east of the
island, or by boat which runs between Mulifanua Wharf on Upolu and
Salelologa on Savai'i. Be
aware that the ferry service between Upolu and Savai'i is erratic, depending on
the weather and number of passengers, so although the trip is only one and a
half hours, don't plan to make it back for an international flight.
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