Rabaul (Northeast New Britain)

Rabaul in East New Britain has an ancient gigantic volcanic crater and provides the perfect circle of Simpson Harbour.

The drive from the airport, now located at Tokua, about an hour from Rabaul, is along a narrow road winding its way around the glittering waters of the Gazelle Peninsula. Through the coconut tree villages of thatched huts surrounded by colourful flowerbeds and tropical fruit trees, look out over calm waters. The Tolai children with their bleached hair and wide smiles stop their play to wave at passing traffic.

Across the Harbour is Tavurvur, occasionally belching great clouds of black ash-filled smoke into the atmosphere. From this warm tropical lushness enter the now lunar-like landscape at the base of the volcano, Vulcan. Further on pass through untouched suburban streets before turning into the main street of Mango Avenue. Amidst the tangled mass of rubble and ruins covered in layers of muddy volcanic ash, three former resort hotels have been resurrected and stand like oases amidst the desolation to welcome the awe-struck visitor.

Prior to the volcanic eruption the town of Rabaul retained an air of somnolent tranquillity. Life is slow as one meanders along the roads that lead to the various plantations and missions that dot the coastline.

The fertile volcanic soil proves ideal for growing anything in this tropical haven, so it is not uncommon to see giant red paw paws, long mangoes and Asian fruits like rambutan.