Kundiawa, the capital of Simbu province, is set in picturesque surroundings beside a spectacular airstrip built on a sloping ridge beneath the towering mountains. Kundiawa is not a tourist attraction in itself but a stepping stone for mountain and river adventures in other parts of Simbu Province. Only a few kilometres from Kundiawa, close to the main road, are the Keu Caves, suitable for caving expeditions. Three are a number of other caves around the district which are burial places for the remains of warriors killed in battle.

In the heart of the Highlands is Simbu Province, bordered by Madang to the north and the Gulf country to the south. It is the smallest but most densely populated of all the provinces. The terrain is extremely rugged, with many of the valleys inaccessible. Some of the highest mountains in Papua New Guinea are in Simbu Province including Mt Wilhelm, at 4,509 metres, the highest peak in Papua New Guinea.

Known to avoid mountain climbers around the world, for the reasonably fit, it is not a difficult climb for those who like to be physically challenged. There is a clearly marked track which passes through traditional Simbu villages, through dense rainforest, into the valley before reaching Pindaunde Lakes where there are basic huts for overnight stays and on. The view from the summit is spectacular, on a clear day the stretching from the north to the south coast. Cold weather gear is recommended as it can get very cold on top, sometimes snowing. Guides and porters can be arranged as well as organised trekking expeditions. A trout and rabbit farm at the base of the mountain has a guest house with easy walking tracks nearby.

The Wahgi River is considered by experts to be one of the best rafting experiences in the world as the river rushes through deep chasms, stretches of rapids, under small rope bridges and waterfalls. Serious bushwalkers can follow a four-wheel drive track down to the coastal town of Madang. The three or four day walk offers the intrepid bushwalker some of the best look-out views in the country.

Climbing Mount Wilhelm

Climbing Mt Wilhelm is a very worthwhile experience. While not a technically demanding climb it is physically challenging. This is particularly so if you have been mainly in the coastal areas for the last little while.

It is recommended that people stay at the Pindaunde Lakes for 24-36 hours to acclimatise to the altitude somewhat before climbing the mountain. While this is not a requirement if you are physically fit it will make the climb more enjoyable. Plus the lakes provide a pleasant environment to take a break.

Access to the mountain is quite easy unless weather is very bad - blizzard or heavy rain. The following travel details were provided in August 1999 by Rick Warnett and Terry Griffiths:

Light aircraft can he chartered to fly to Keglsugl airstip, about 8,000' asl or the intrepid can hire a helicopter from Pacific Helicopters in Goroka for a range of costs per hour. Count on about 900 USD per hour for a Bell 206, the flight out and back takes about 1.6 hours, but you can visit the summit without all the clobber otherwise required.

Alternatively you can travel by road from Goroka to the base camp at the Mt Wilhelm Trout Farm, operated by Ken and Betty Higgins, together with their local assistants. Cost for a 4WD return trip (up to 6 passengers) is K300.00 (US$120.00), and is available through Norman Carver's Niugini Highland Tours, and can be booked via the BOP. This 4-5 hour trip proceeds along roads which cling to mountain sides (and sometimes don't) and winds up from 5,000' across the pass at 9,000' then down to Kundiawa and along a steep sided river valley to Keglsugl, then on to the trout farm and the Lodge.

Accomodation here is about K45 per night (1998) and includes some of the world's best trout and fresh vegetables - no pesticides. A guide can be hired from the local area for about K50 per day and is definitely required to save wasted miles or becoming lost if the weather fails. Overnight exposure will result in death, unless you have alpine tents or find shelter. Visibility can fall to less than 3M and the rocky terrain is unforgiving. Eight people rest here, testament to the hidden dangers of what seems a Sunday walk.

A walk to the lakes is usually completed on the first day and a short rest until about 2am made there. These are beautiful cirque lakes formed when glacial ice sheets covered PNG in the last ice age. The only permanent ice fields left on the island are in the Star Mountains in Irian Jaya, much more difficult to reach. Brown trout once lived in the lakes, but it appears too cold for even them to survive and none have been seen for many years. Snow trout may be used to re-stock the lakes, leading to the possibility of a fishing expedition to this extremely pleasant and relaxing place. There is a staging hut at a lake below the summit where you can overnight for K10.00 per person.

From a 2am start, a walk with torches to see the way on moonless days, leads up the wall of the lakes, across a moraine strewn clay slope, under huge overhanging rocks and then upward past the tree and bush line to almost bare rock. The trail reaches about 14,000' and then levels out to traverse around several deep gullies. A short section along a ridgeline introduces the walker to the view that lies ahead, before descending to follow a well worn trail on the north side. The last kilometer passes several radio repeater sites and then the final ascent up a steep and rough pinnacle that is the summit of PNG's highest mountain.

Arrival is usually time to be about 7am so that the clearest air and best views are available. A climb soon after heavy rain or a mountaintop storm will reveal the best views as all the moisture has been removed. After a two day blizzard in 1997, I was certain I could see well past Mt Lamington volcano some 450Km to the East. It was likely that the two peaks on the horizon were Goodenough and Fergussen Islands in Milne Bay !! Even individual trees on Mt Giluwe (itself 4,100M) could be seen.

Views are enjoyed until 8-9am or until the weather starts to close in.
Walking down is said to be harder than up, probably true. The return trip is usually back to the Lodge at Keglsugl or the Trout Farm, all in one day, This is usually about 7 hours.

As radio technicians, it is easier to camp on site and accept the hardships, than walk up and down to the site each day. Alpine conditions are challenging for a few days and camping is possible in all but the worst conditions, as well, few others do this, so camping on Mt Wilhelm is much more interesting than simply walking up and down.

I once spent 9 days in a small metal hut with 3 then 5 people while
upgrading the facilities for my employer. This was tough and extremely interesting. Snowstorms in the tropics - not everyone's ideas of Papua New Guinea, but certainly some great stories and photos were made in that time.

P.S. You can ring home from the summit by taking your analog cellular phone up with you. keep the batteries warm, but access to the Mt Hagen cell system is possible and you can call anywhere in the world, or leave that unexpected message.

SUMMARY
Population: 183 649 citizens and 200 expatriates.
Land area: 6181 square km.
Members in Parliament: 7.
Headquarters: Kundiawa.

Districts; citizens; major languages; (Simbu language dialects):

• Chuave; 31 241; Elimbari, Chuave, Siane-Komunku, Lambau
• Gembogl; 17 048; (Kuman, Nagane).
• Gumine; 32 858; (Golin, Salt-Yui, Yuri, Kia, Keri, Era), Nomane
• Karimui; 12 204; Mikaru Daribi, Pawaia, Bomai
• Kerowagi; 36 251; (Kuman, Kombugl).
• Kindiawa; 36 537; (Kuman, Dom), Naur, Narku, Nongumugl.
• Sinasina; hq at Kamtai; 17 510; (Tabare, Guna).