With a history of gold mines and coffee plantations, Eastern Highlands has had more exposure to European influence than any other Highlands provinces. It has a history full of colourful characters- miners, missionaries, patrol officers, plantation owners. Traditional dress is seldom worn this days, although the Highlanders still live in village of neat clusters of low walled round huts built amongst the rolling kunai-grass covered hills.

Goroka, a small outpost station in the 19950's has developed into an attractive, well organised town with modern facilities and relaxed atmosphere. It is a major Highlands commercial centre of 25,000 people at an altitude of 1600 metres. It has a climate of perpetual spring.

Today Goroka has become known for its annual show, held every September. It is a marvellous opportunity to gain an overview of PNG cultural diversity. The shows were first held in the 50's as a means of gathering together the different tribes and clans. At times there could be more than 40,000 painted warriors dancing to the beat of the Kundu drums. The scenario was an amazing success and grew from its original concept of a local get- together into a major tourist attraction.

Amongst the performers are the legendary mud men of Asaro. Tribal folklore records that centuries ago the warriors of Asaro were defeated in a tribal fight "payback" raid, and, to make themselves look fierce in the process, covered their bodies with grey mud. According to legend, the ruse worked. Their enemies fled at the sight of these ghostly apparitions. The mud men recreated the drama at the Goroka show and for hotel tour groups.

The Raun Raun Theatre Company, based in Goroka is a highly acclaimed performing group which tours both nationally and internationally.

The J.K. McCarthy Museum in Goroka is named after one of Papua New Guinea's legendary patrol officers. It is second only to the National Museum in Port Moresby and exhibit a wide variety of artefacts, handicrafts, war relics and a collection of photographs which portray early contact with Europeans and Highlanders.

From the Post Office the street leads to a track that climbs to Mt. Kiss Kiss lookout. A long steep walk ends with a magnificent vista across the valley. More serious trekking can be found south of Goroka at Lufa, the base of Mt. Michael. There is a cave nearby with some interesting prehistoric paintings.

From Goroka on the road to Kainantu is the village of Bena Bena, a centre for weaving. The men operate the hand looms, weaving pleasantly coarse rugs, bedspread and place mats.

Eleven km's out of town by four wheel drive is the Mt. Gahavisuka Provincial Park. This is an area of around 80 hectares set in beautiful mountain scenery. The park includes a botanical sanctuary, where exotic from all over PNG have been added to the local, natural orchids and rhododendrons. There are clearly marked walk tracks and a lookout at 2450 metres with panoramic views.

Hotels can arrange day tours to any of the attractions near Goroka including visits to working coffee plantations, processing plants and the Kotuni trout farm.

There are a number of options for accommodations in Goroka, ranging from the top of the range Bird of Paradise Hotel to the Goroka University Campus.

Air Niugini has daily direct flights to Goroka from Port Moresby. Third level airlines also provide connections to Goroka from various centres. Local PMV buses travel regularly between Lae and Goroka.

Goroka Cofee

Some growing areas are certified for organic coffee production. this means that no chemicals, such as synthetic fertilisers or sprays, are used during any phase of production. This process results in a flawless, flavour-packed coffee giving the consumer the added comfort that no chemicals have been used.

Although only a small sub-niche market, the demand for 'natural' food and beverage products is growing steadily and PNG is well placed to meet the market in organically certified coffee. In the early 1950's, coffee first took off as a significant cash crop with pioneer plantations in the Asaro Valley outside Goroka.

Today, most of PNG's coffee is produced in the Western Highlands Province, with the Eastern Highlands running a close second and Chimbu third. PNG coffee is hand - picked, pulped and fermented: a cleaning process that washes away the sugary outer coating found on the outside of the two coffee beans that lie in each cherry. Because care is taken in washing off this mucilage, PNG coffee is classified amongst the higher quality so-called 'washed arabicas'.

The pioneers in roasting domestically were Goroka Coffee Roasters, a small plant that quickly established its reputation as a quality producer after its establishment in 1965. Starting with one small roaster, the plant now has the capacity to produce several hundred tonnes of roasted coffee a year. With eight full-time employees, the factory is poised to launch into new export markets.

Domestically, most hotels and supermarkets carry the established brand, Goroka Coffee, in its distinctive blue pack, featuring a Highlands warrior's head on the label. The organic label, Paradise Gold, is equally distinctive in a forest green and gold packet displaying a paradisea monor bird of paradies on the front.

As an alternative to rainforest felling, primary agricultural products are very important in sustaining the livelihood of the grass roots villagers. Coffee is the single most important crop to the Highlanders and for many, their only source of cash income.

Most recently a new brand has been designed and produced as a private label for the country's flagship air carrier, Air Niugini. Bearing the stylised bird of paradise in Air Niugini's colours, this attractive white coffee pouch is labelled Air Niugini Blend and is distributed through the airline's in-flight duty free shop, and as a complimentary present to business class travellers.

SUMMARY
Population: 298 502 citizens and 2146 expatriates.
Land area: 11 200 square km.
Members in Parliament: 9.
Headquarters: Goroka.

Districts; citizen population; and major languages:

• Goroka; 98 790; Gahuku-Asaro, Benabena, Siane.
• Henganofi; 37 671; Kamano.
• Kainantu; 80 838; Gadsup, Agarabi, Tairora.
• Lufa; 30 485; Kamano-Yagaria, Gimi.
• Marawaka; 11 814; Baruya, Sirnbari, Yagwoia.
• Okapa; 38 904; Fore, Gimi, Auyana.