Oregon
Oregon Coast Region
Although the Oregon coast is as beautiful as any stretch of America’s Pacific seaboard, the Californian sun draws off the tan-seeking masses (summer temperatures here stay in the sixties and seventies), leaving Oregonians to hike and clam-dig along their own four hundred miles, most of it public land. State park after state park lines the shore, with campgrounds scattered thickly; while extensive and often isolated beaches offer a multitude of free activities, from beachcombing to shell-fishing and whale-watching. This isn’t to say that Oregon has escaped commercialism: small fishing towns, hard-hit by decline, are jumping onto the tourism bandwagon as fast as they can, and it’s a lucky traveler who finds a budget room without booking ahead in July and August.
About a dozen of the state parks along the Oregon coast offer novel accommodation in the form of yurts – domed circular tents with wooden floors, electricity and lockable doors. Yurts come equipped with bunk beds and a futon couch, and cost $25 per night for five people; in nine coastal state parks, details from the State Park Campsite Information Line (tel 1-800/452-5687).

The coast is perfect for cycling (pick up the Coast Bike Route Map from any major visitor center). US-101 follows the coastline to the California border, and you can escape onto the many smaller “scenic loop” roads.

South to California
Towns are fewer and farther between as you travel south along US-101, with the coastline at its prettiest beyond PORT ORFORD where forested mountains sweep smoothly down to the sea. These mountains mark the western limit of the Siskiyou National Forest, a vast slab of remote wilderness best explored by boat along the turbulent Rogue River from workaday GOLD BEACH. The town’s visitor center, on the main road at 1225 S Ellensburg (tel 541/247-7526 or 1-800/525-2334), has details of rafting and powerboat excursions plus prices for the town’s various motels and hotels.

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