| At
the mouth of the Coquille River, 20 miles south of industrial Coos Bay,
easygoing, likeable BANDON (or Bandon-by-the-Sea, as it’s known
in the brochures) combines old town restoration with a strong New Age
presence, making it something of an arts and crafts center. It was
originally a Native American settlement, which was swamped by the onset of
the Gold Rush. The twentieth century began rather ominously, when
townsfolk dynamited Tupper Rock, a sacred tribal site, to build the sea
wall, and the town was cursed to burn down three times: it’s happened
twice so far, in 1914 and 1936, and the superstitious are still waiting. |
|
| Bandon’s
main attraction today is its rugged beach, strewn with unusual rock
formations and particularly magnificent in stormy weather, when giant tree
stumps are tossed up out of the ocean like matchsticks. In calmer
conditions, clammers head off to the mudflats of the river, crabbers
gather at the town dock, and the whole scene makes for a delightful
stroll.
The visitor center is centrally located at
300 SE Second St (tel 541/347-9616). There’s oceanfront accommodation
just south of town at the outstanding Sunset Motel, 1755 Beach Loop
Drive (tel 541/347-2453 or 1-800/842-2407; $45–$175), which comprises
motel rooms, condo units and, best of all, seafront cabins – it’s well
worth paying the extra. In town, the place to stay is the Sea Star
Guest House, 375 Second St (tel 541/347-9632; $45–60), part of which
is given over to the HI-Sea Star Hostel (up to $30), which
incorporates a friendly cafe. Two blocks away, there’s great seafood
at Andrea’s Old Town Cafe on Baltimore Street (tel
541/347-3022).You can camp just north of town at Bullards Beach
State Park (tel 541/347-2209), where the Coquille River Lighthouse
stands guard over miles of windswept wilderness. |