Colorado
Steamboat Springs
With its wide surrounding valleys, STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, 65 miles north of Vail, looks like no other Colorado mountain resort. Its roots are in ranching rather than mining, and its downtown area still evokes a pioneer feel – until you spot the upmarket boutiques. In this ski-mad town, rancher-types judge the quality of snowfall by the number of fence wires it covers; they’re usually satisfied with a three-wire winter, which corresponds to its average snowfall of 325 inches per year.
The town’s unprepossessing ski resort (lift tickets $46 per day), snuggled into Mount Werner five miles south of downtown, is boosted by such activities as bobsled rides at the small downtown, Howelson Hill Ski Area ($10), dogsled expeditions, hot-air ballooning and snowmobiling are all available. A favorite year-round activity is to let all the stress seep out at the secluded 105°F Strawberry Park Hot Springs (daily; 10am–midnight; $5–10), ten miles north of town but only accessible by 4WD in winter. If you prefer to stay in town, the Steamboat Springs Health and Recreation Center offers hot mineral pools, (6.30am–10pm; $5), as well as workout facilities. In the summertime, opportunities for mountain biking, whitewater rafting, and horseback riding abound. Outfitters throughout the town can assist you with gear and guides.

Practicalities
Most winter visitors fly into Yampa Valley Airport, 22 miles out, though it’s possible to drive, weather permitting, from Denver over scenic Rabbit Ears Pass, or take a Steamboat Express shuttle bus direct from Denver International Airport (tel 970/879-3400 or 1-800/545-6050; $57).

From town, free SST buses (tel 970/879-3717) run the five miles to the ski resort. Slopeside lodging, such as the comfortable Best Western Ptarmigan Inn (tel 970/879-1730; winter $100–130, summer $60–80), costs more than downtown options like Rabbit Ears Motel (tel 970/879-1150 or 1-800/828-7702; winter $100–130, summer $60–80 / $80–100), or Nite’s Rest Motel (tel 970/879-1212 or 1-800/828-1780; winter $60–80 / $80–100, summer $45–60). Steamboat Central Reservations (tel 1-800/922-2722) can supply information on lodging and packages. You can camp at the Steamboat Springs KOA Campground (tel 970/879-0273; tents $19, hookups $22–25), two miles west of downtown on US-40.

For food, Cugino’s, 825 Oak St (tel 970/879-5805), serves inexpensive home-style pasta and pizza; in the ski area, La Montana (tel 970/879-5800) offers big portions of quality Southwestern and Mexican food. For a casual atmosphere and deli-bakery delights, try Winona’s (tel 970/879-2483). If you’ve got money to spare, try the delicious dinner at Hazie’s, up on the mountain (open Tues–Sat for lunch and dinner during ski season, Fri and Sat nights during summer; tel 970/879-6111 ext 465), which includes a free gondola ride. Microbrews are available at the boisterous Heavenly Daze Brew Pub (tel 970/879-8080) and The Tugboat Grill and Pub (tel 970/879-7070), with live music and a dance floor, both located on Ski Time Square, and both of which serve good pub food.