California (Los Angeles Area)
Griffith park

The gentle greenery and rugged mountain slopes that make up vast Griffith Park northeast of Hollywood (daily 5am–10.30pm, mountain roads close at dusk; free) are a welcome escape from the mind-numbing hubbub of the city. The landmark Observatory (Tues–Fri 2–10pm, Sat & Sun 12.30–10pm; free) here has been seen in innumerable Hollywood films, most famously Rebel Without a Cause, and the surrounding acres add up to the largest municipal park in the country, one of the few places where LA’s multitude of racial and social groups at least go through the motions of mixing together. 

Above the landscaped flat sections, the hillsides are rough and wild, marked only by foot and bridle paths, leading into desolate but appealingly unspoiled terrain that gives great views over the LA basin and out to the ocean, provided the city smog isn’t too thick. One way to explore is on a rented bike from Woody’s Bicycle World, 3157 Los Feliz Blvd (tel 213/661-6665), a short distance away. Definitely worth a look is the Gene Autry Museum of Western Heritage, 4700 Western Heritage Way, devoted to true Wild West history and its Hollywood interpretation (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; $7.50). The park is safe enough by day, but its reputation for after-dark violence is well founded.