California (Gold Country)
Lake Tahoe

One of the highest, largest, deepest, cleanest and coldest lakes in the world, Lake Tahoe is perched high above the Gold Country in an alpine bowl of forested granite peaks. Longer than the English Channel is wide, and more than a thousand feet deep, it’s so cold that perfectly preserved cowboys who drowned over a century ago have been recovered from its depths. 

The lake lures weekenders from the Bay Area and beyond with sunny beaches in the summer, snow-covered slopes in the winter and bustling casinos year round.

Lake Tahoe traddles the California-Nevada border at 6,225 feet. The lake (15 miles S on Calif. 89) offers water sports, hiking, and skiing, and on the Nevada side, casino gambling. The north shore of the 22-mile-long, crystal-clear lake blends woods, beaches, and cafés; casinos dominate its south shore.

To appreciate the lake's personalities, drive its 72-mile circumference. The closest beach to I-80 is Kings Beach (13 miles S on Calif. 267). Especially worth seeing is Emerald Bay (25 miles S of Tahoe City on Calif. 89), with the 38-room castle Vikingsholm (530-525-7277. Daily Memorial Day-Labor Day, weekends in Sept. Tours; adm. fee) beside it.

Lake Tahoe skiing

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Lake Tahoe has some of the best downhill skiing in North America, with some of its larger resorts rivaling their Rocky Mountain counterparts. Although skiing is certainly not cheap – the largest ski areas charge $50 for the privilege of using their mountain for a single day – many resorts offer decent-valued rental/lift ticket/lesson packages or multiday discounts. Snowboarding has, of course, caught on in a big way, and the same resorts that once scoffed at the sport have now installed massive snow parks with radical half-pipes and jumps. Cross country skiing is also popular. Most resorts rent skis for about $25 and snowboards for $35.
  • Downhill skiing
    • Squaw Valley USA, Squaw Valley Rd, halfway between Truckee and Tahoe City (tel 530/583-6985 or 1-800/766-9321). Thirty lifts service over 4000 acres of unbeatable terrain at the site of the 1960 Winter Olympics. Nonskiers can take the cable lift ($14) and use the ice-skating/swimming pool complex for the day. Lift tickets are $49.
    • Heavenly, reachable by shuttle from Southshore, two miles from the casinos, (tel 775/586-7000 or 1-800/243-2836). Prime location and sheer scale (82 runs and 27 lifts) makes this one of the lake’s most frequented resorts. Nonskiers can take the aerial tram for the view ($12.50). Lift tickets are $54.
    • Homewood, 6 miles north of Tahoe City on Hwy-89 (tel 530/525-2992 or 1-800/824-6348). Smaller and more relaxed than its massive resorty neighbors, Homewood boasts some surprisingly good skiing with unbeatable views of the lake and reasonable prices. Lift tickets go for $36.
    • Kirkwood Ski Resort, 35 miles south of South Lake Tahoe on Hwy-88 (tel 209/258-6000). A bit out of the way if you’re in Tahoe but worth the trip as a destination in itself for numerous recreational possibilities including excellent hiking and biking trails. Lift tickets are $45.
  • Cross-country skiing
    • Royal Gorge, in Soda Springs, 10 miles west of Truckee (tel 530/426-3871 or 1-800/500-3871). The largest and best of Tahoe’s cross-country resorts has 204 miles of groomed trails. $19.50 trail fee, $16.50 rental fee, and $18 for lessons.
    • Spooner Lake, in Nevada at the intersection of Hwy-50 and Hwy-28 (tel 775/749-5349). The closest cross-country resort to South Lake Tahoe has lake views and 63 miles of groomed trails. Trail fees are $15, rentals are $15, and lessons are $34.

Arrival, information and getting around
Daily Greyhound buses from San Francisco and Sacramento stop at Harrah’s casino in Stateline, Nevada. From there, local STAGE buses serve the communities of Tahoe City and South Lake Tahoe. Amtrak Thruway buses arrive several times daily from Sacramento, heading for Carson City. You can rent bicycles from the Mountain Sports Center (tel 530/542-6584) in South Lake Tahoe and from Olympic Bike Shop (tel 530/581-2500) in Tahoe City. There are visitors centers around the lake, in California at 13066 US-50 (tel 530/541-5255), and at 245 North Lake Blvd in Tahoe City (tel 530/581-6900 or 583-3494); in Nevada at 969 Tahoe Blvd in Incline Village (tel 775/832-1606 or 831-4440) and at 195 Hwy-50 (tel 775/588-4591).

Accommodation
There are dozens of bargain motels along the Southshore, though weekday rates from $40 can easily double at weekends and in summer. In Tahoe City, there are fewer budget choices, but as prices skyrocket around the lake, you’ll rarely find a great deal in any direction. The South Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority (tel 1-800/288-2463) runs a free room reservation service, which can also help you with Northshore and Reno reservations.
  • BW Timber Cove Lodge
  • Embassy Suites Lake Tahoe
  • Red Carpet Inn, 4100 Lake Tahoe Blvd (Hwy-50), South Lake Tahoe. Basic, but has a pool and is right on the Nevada border.
  • River Ranch, Hwy-89 and Alpine Meadows Rd, Tahoe City. Historic lodge on the Truckee River with one of the lake’s best restaurants.
  • Quality Inn Lake Tahoe
  • Sierrawood Guest House, 12 miles from Southshore, Tahoe Paradise. This is just a few minutes drive from the casinos’ glitter. Jacuzzi, exercise room, fireplace and free snowmobiling on premises.
  • Super 8 Motel Lake Tahoe
  • Tahoe City Inn, 790 North Lake Blvd, Tahoe City. This place can cost as little as $60 midweek.
  • Tamarack Lodge, 2311 North Lake Blvd, Tahoe City. The best deal anywhere on the lake. Comfortable and clean.

For more information on Lake Tahoe, go to:

See also the great drives: