Forty miles north along US-395 from Bishop then five miles west on Hwy-203, the resort town of MAMMOTH LAKES offers the state’s premier ski slopes outside the Lake Tahoe basin, and in summer hosts on- and off-road bike races. The setting is stunning, but the town is pricey and prone to testosterone overload. 

To ski Mammoth Mountain (www.mammoth-mtn.com), which looms up behind the resort, pick up lift tickets ($49 per day) from the Main Lodge on Minaret Road, where you can also rent equipment ($20 for basic skis, boots and poles), and book lessons ($32 per half-day). In summer, fifty miles of snow-free slopes transform themselves into the 3500-acre Mammoth Mountain Bike Park ($20 a day for trail access, $25 for trails and cable car, $35 a day for bike rental; two-hour all-in midweek taster $30).

The geologic formation that is "the Postpile" is the world's finest example of unusual columnar basalt. Its columns of lava, with their four to seven sides, display a honeycomb pattern of order and harmony.

Another jewel in the Monument is the San Joaquin River. Along the river corridor, the Monument flourishes with life. Meadows burst forth with flowers that nourish deer, birds, and butterflies. This portion of the San Joaquin is a designated Wild Trout River where both novice and expert can play the waters for four species of trout. Lining the river are a combination of old-growth red-fir forest and new growth rejuvenated by fire. On the lower reaches of the Monument's 2.5 miles of river course, rainbows frequently sparkle over their namesake -- the 101-foot drop of Rainbow Falls.

In addition to its geologic wonders and the beauty and diversity of the San Joaquin River, the monument is a portal to the great Sierra backcountry. Some 75% of the monument is part of the Ansel Adams Wilderness. It is traversed by the historic John Muir and Pacific Crest trails; you can follow a trail from here to Mexico or Canada!

At 800 acres, Devils Postpile National Monument may be considered small by some, yet its natural and recreational values abound.

Practicalities

Mammoth’s plentiful accommodation, which includes two hostels, are costliest in winter. Mammoth Mountain Inn on Mammoth Mountain, is a touch sterile but it’s at the heart of all the ski and bike action, while the White Stag Inn, at Main and Minaret, is reasonably priced and central. Other accommodations are Quality Inn Mammoth Lakes and Rodaway Inn Sierra Nevada.

There are campgrounds ($12) close to Devil’s Postpile National Monument, and free waterless sites in the Inyo National Forest off US-395 around eleven miles north.

Restaurants tend to be expensive but casual: Giovanni’s, in the Minaret Village Mall (tel 760/934-7563), is popular for pasta and pizza, with great lunchtime deals; Good Life Cafe, at the Mammoth Mall (tel 760/934-1734), serves burgers, egg dishes and vegetarian staples at modest prices on the sunny deck; and The Lakefront Restaurant, at Tamarack Lodge (tel 760/934-3534), offers superb lake views and good food - for a price. Whiskey Creek, at Main and Minaret (tel 760/934-2555), is a lively bar and restaurant, with its own good microbrews.

For more info on Great Drives in this area, go to: Great Parks