BARSTOW, the one stopoff along the dusty, endless I-15 – served by both Greyhound and Amtrak – is a lackluster small town. During the hottest season it seems perpetually empty; everyone hides in their air-conditioned homes. The one main road, formerly Route 66, is lined with motels – such as the Budget 8 Motel, 1271 E Main St (tel 760/256-2204; up to $30) – and restaurants, like Carlos and Toto’s, at 901 W Main St (tel 760/256-7513).

Barstow is a great base for exploring ancient Rainbow Basin and the new Mojave National Preserve. In Barstow, time-travel to the early days of this railroad-and-mining town at the Mojave River Valley Museum. To the east is the Calico Ghost Town, with shops and historic buildings harkening back to its 1880s glory days. Walk the tunnels of Calico's Maggie Mine. Go even further back in time at Calico Early Man Archaeological Site.