Bakersfield

California (Central Valley)

Bakersfield

The southern anchor of the Central Valley and one of the richest agricultural zones in the world, Bakersfield has become one of the major urban centers in California, though it still remains true to its roots. With the sound of country music, the countless outlets for country cooking, and the oil derricks, you could easily mistake it for Texas or Oklahoma.

From Los Angeles north it is the first town you come across the rocky peaks, looming unappealingly out of a forest of oil derricks. It is a flat and featureless town. This is the unlikely home of one of the liveliest country music scenes in the nation, stemming from the arrival during the Depression of Midwestern farmers, with their hillbilly instruments and campfire songs. In the mid-Sixties, the gutsy honky-tonk style of Bakersfield artists such as Merle Haggard and Buck Owens challenged the slick commercial output of Nashville, but hopes of luring the major country music record labels to “Nashville West” foundered with the emergence of rivals like Austin, Texas.

Nevertheless, the numerous honky-tonks of Bakersfield are still jumping every Friday and Saturday night. There’s seldom a cover charge, and live sets usually entail one band playing for four or five hours from around 8pm, with a fifteen-minute break every hour. Stetson hats and flouncy shirts are the sartorial order of the day, and audiences span generations. Most venues are hotel lounges or restaurant backrooms; don’t miss the country bar Trouts, 805 N Chester Ave (tel 661/399-6700). Closer to town, you might also try the Buck Owens Crystal Palace, 2800 Buck Owens Boulevard (tel 661/328-7560), where the $6 cover includes a museum of Buck Owens memorabilia, or the clubbier Rockin’ Rodeo, 3745 Rosedale Hwy (tel 805/323-6617), with a New Country or rock DJ every night.

Things to see

A major oil-producing area, Bakersfield also hosts the nation's largest Basque community, descendants of sheepherding immigrants. For local flavor, visit the 1893 Noriega Hotel, a Basque landmark, and dine at a Basque restaurant. The Kern County Museum and Lori Brock Children's Discovery Center include 50 historic buildings, dating from 1860 to 1930, and hands-on exhibits.

To the south, in Lebec, the 1854-era Fort Tejon houses a restored Army dragoon barracks and a museum.

East of Bakersfield, both the Upper and Lower Kern rivers draw white-water rafting adventurers. For wildlife viewing, visit the California Living Museum northeast of Bakersfield. Or, head west to Buttonwillow to take a guided tour of the Tule Elk State Reserve, a protected area for native elk. Bring binoculars!

Just north is Wasco, location of the world's largest miniature rose-growing facility. Near Delano, visit the Kern National Wildlife Refuge, winter home to wildfowl. Nearby, the Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park honors the town founded in 1908 by ex-slave Allensworth for African Americans.

Practicalities

You have to come to Bakersfield from LA by Amtrak Thruway bus to catch the train through the valley to San Francisco and northern California. Several Greyhound routes require changes here too, calling at 1820 18th St. The handiest visitor center is at 1725 Eye St (Mon 9am-5pm Tues–Fri 8am–5pm; tel 661/327-4421).

Bargain overnight stays include the EZ-8, 2604 Pierce Rd , and the adjacent La Quinta, 3232 Riverside Drive; both pool-equipped and a short stagger from Buck Owens Crystal Palace.

For eating, Zingo’s at 2625 Pierce Rd (tel 661/324-3640) is a 24-hour truckstop where frilly-aproned waitresses deliver plates of diner staples; 24th Street Cafe, 1415 24th St, does top-rate breakfasts; Joseph’s, hidden back off the road at 3013 F St (tel 661/322-7710), serves huge calzone and other Italian dishes; and the Noriega Hotel, 525 Sumner St (tel 661/322-8419), offers excellent all-you-can-eat Basque meals at long communal tables.