Kosrae
Kosrae is unique among the Micronesian islands because it is a solitary island surrounded by a reef, whereas the other islands have small islands in close proximity.
The second largest island in the FSM, Kosrae is a sleepy backwater paradise for active travellers who enjoy tramping through rainforests, paddling through mangroves, or snorkelling coral reefs.
Kosrae's greatest attraction is the clear, clean ocean and living coral reefs that completely encircle it. The island is somewhat triangular in shape and good dive sites can be found on all three sides.
Offshore,
the coral reefs slope steeply into clear blue depths. At some spots there
are vertical drop-offs, while other areas have undulating profiles of
cascading corals.
The teeming reef life has attracted all kinds of Pacific reef fish and there is a large population of turtles, particularly during the mating season in December, and a school of Spinner Dolphins.
Scuba
divers can explore the many Japanese wrecks and there is swimming, sailing,
fishing and sea shelling for those who enjoy relaxing by the water.
The tip of a submerged mountain peak that rises from the abyssal plain thousands of feet below, the island's highest point is Mt Finkol, 2,064 feet above sea level and it is possible to hike to the summit for a panoramic view of Kosrae.
The locals believe that in ancient times, the gods became angry with Kosrae and laid her on her back where she became an island. The view from the causeway makes it easy to see why Kosrae is called the 'land of the sleeping lady' and from the top of Mount Finkol or from Lelu Harbour you can still see her head, hair, stomach and breasts out-lined against the sky.
Legends are told that the king of Micronesia ruled from Kosrae and that the first settlers arrived by canoes from East Asia and other islands in the South Pacific.
They were followed by whalers in 1776 and missionaries from Boston in the 1850s, who educated the people and produced the island's first written version of the local language.
The pirate William 'Bully' Hayes lost his ship the 'Leonora' in Utwe Harbour during a storm in 1874. He buried his treasure after his ship sank. The ship still lies in the harbour mud, but the treasure has never been found.
If you plan to stay on Kosrae, rent a car or a moped, as there is no public transport, though if you are walking, locals will often offer you a ride in the back of their trucks.
There is no local cash currency, the US dollar is preferred, though banks will give credit on well known credit cards and if waiting around for them to open leaves you thirsty try the local drink, fresh lime juice and water, it's delicious.
The best way to see Kosrae is to take a drive from the main town of Lelu which also contains the archaeological ruins of Lelu, to the outlying villages of Tafunsak to the west, and to Malem. There is excellent snorkelling in the coral reefs outside of Lelu, Malem and Tafunsak. Near Utwe, to the south, you can swim in the pool formed by the Sipyen Waterfall. A fairly good road connects the four villages and there are pristine beaches along the way where you can enjoy walking for miles. Also, try paddling through mangrove swamps between Walung and Okat.
Balmy all year round, Kosrae remains an unblemished garden of flowers and citrus trees, a place to explore, a verdant dot in the Pacific with beautiful white sandy beaches, blue waters and dense, green tropical jungle.
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