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by Tim Kern This
page is in response to several requests made to me by individuals
concerned about the safety of Pacific's beaches. The contents of this page
is largely my own opinions based on training, observations and experiences
acquired while living in Hawaii.
This gives me a chance to warn people of
potential dangers associated with the shoreline and the ocean in general.
This also gives me a chance to "get on my soapbox" about taking
responsibility for yourself when entering the ocean.
In Hawaii, the beach and shoreline are natural
gathering places. In the past, the ocean furnished the early Hawaiians
with food, transportation, and recreation. In modern Hawaii, the beach is
still a focal point for recreation and activity.
The Beach Warning Signs to the right
have been copyrighted since 1986 by the Hawaiian Lifeguard Association.
For more information: Lifeguards' O'ahu Beach Guide: http://www.aloha.com/~lifeguards/
Virtually any activity involving the ocean can
be deemed hazardous.
Every
year, people in the pursuit of fun, injure themselves. Part of the problem
seems to be the thought that "I have to do this, I won't be back here
again" or "those waves don't look that bad". Famous last
words. Anyone participating in activities involving the ocean have got to
USE GOOD SENSE. This is a fundamental tenant for the ocean. The seas can
be very unforgiving. If the waves are crashing and no one is in the water,
then stay out. When visiting a shoreline, watch the water for several
minutes before entering, you can learn a lot about the wave period and
strength, the currents and wind effects. Then decide if you are up to
going out in the water. Never turn your back on the ocean and know your
own limitations. What
types of shoreline and water recreation and activities are available in
Hawaii?
The
list includes: Swimming, Surfing, Body Boarding, Body Surfing, Kayaking,
Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing, Wind Surfing, Sailing, and Boating.
What do you have to look out for in the ocean? Well, that list can be
long.
Waves
Waves
are probably the single most dangerous naturally destructive occurrence on
any shoreline.
Waves are probably the single most dangerous
naturally destructive occurrence on any shoreline. Try to imagine the
weight of a large wave as it crashes on the beach or rocks, the force can
be measured in tons per square inch. What
makes a wave:
- A
ridge or swell moving through or along the surface of a large body
of water.
- A
moving curve or succession of curves in or on a surface; an
undulation.
- A
widespread, persistent meteorological condition, especially of
temperature.
- Physics.
a. A disturbance traveling through a medium by which energy is
transferred from one particle of the medium to another without
causing any permanent displacement of the medium itself.
Most of the really serious injury accidents that
occur in Hawaii's beaches are wave related injuries. Broken bones,
lacerated skin, and bruised muscles are just a few of the injuries. Spinal
injuries are especially common with activities like surfing, body surfing,
and body boarding.
Virtually all sports involving riding waves could
be considered hazardous. Your (body) mass can pick up a lot of speed
moving on a wave, coming to a sudden stop means a lot of energy being
displaced someplace, hopefully not into a body, breaking bones or bruising
muscles.
In Hawaii there are several methods employed to
warn beach users about conditions. Pay attention to any beach warnings you
might see, they are there to protect you.
A Red flag signifies that there is the
possibility of severe wave action. A Yellow and Red flag signifies the
possibility of severe Wind and Wave action. In extremely severe surf
conditions the beaches will be closed.
If the red flags are out, consider staying out of
the water, even if it looks like you can handle it. Sometimes it seems
that the flags are always out, but they should only be on display if there
are cautions out. Dangerous wave sets can last for several days at a time,
and they don't have to be really big to be able to do some damage. These
warnings are based on current weather conditions, and wave information
gathered by deep water buoys.
Hawaii employs several other "wave"
warning signs to alert people to potential dangers. If you see any of
these signs posted near the shoreline please pay attention to them. They
are there to warn you of known hazards.
When enjoying a 'day at the beach', stay aware of
the surf conditions. When in doubt, watch the ocean for at least 30
minutes before entering, periodic wave sets will most likely show
themselves. If the waves seem big, or there isn't anyone else out in the
surf there might be a reason for it, so be cautious. Virtually all
activities in the ocean are affected by waves. Don't turn your back on
them.
A final word about waves and Maui's shoreline...
Maui has a lot of shoreline area, not all of it can be patrolled and a lot
of it is remote. Most of the beaches on Maui do not have lifeguards. Even
if you are familiar with the area, exercise caution. Virtually no year
goes by without some type of shoreline accident where a fisherman or
visitor is caught by a large wave and swept out to sea. In the remote
areas there is virtually no chance for rescue. If there are large waves,
not only stay out of the water, but do not approach the shoreline too
closely.
Rip Currents
Swimming
and snorkeling in the ocean is not like swimming in a pool or lake. Rip currents frequently
occur in Hawaii. They are strong,
narrow surface current that flows rapidly away from the shore, returning
the water carried landward by waves. Also called riptide, tiderip, this
current of water is disturbed by an opposing current, esp. in tidal waters
or by passage over an irregular bottom.
The above image illustrates how rip currents are
formed. Large waves cause water to surge across shallow reefs. Near
shore that volume of water collects and moves parallel to the shore until
finding a deep opening in the shallows back toward the open ocean.
Feeder currents come together at these openings to blossom as the rip
currents "head" which rapidly moves away from the beach until it
dissipates hundreds of yards from shore.
Swimming and snorkeling in the ocean is not like
swimming in a pool or lake. The ocean develops currents that can be very
strong, actually irresistible, at times. Combine this with the shape of
the shoreline and the presence of waves, and things like 'rip currents'
can develop. These are currents that can carry a bather from the relative
safety of the inshore waters out into deeper water, where possibly
stronger currents may exist. Rip currents (or any current for that matter)
can not usually be clearly seen from the surface. So bathers sometimes
walk into the surf unawares that a strong out-going current that can
actually knock them off their feet and carry them out to sea, is right
there.
How
to survive a rip current...
-
Remain
Calm, do not panic. Should you find yourself in a current
that's taking you away from where you entered the water. Remember that
panicking will only tire you sooner.
-
Go with the flow. Do not
attempt to fight the current. You will almost certainly loose that
battle. Swim across or perpendicular to the current's direction.
-
Wait until the current
releases you. Rip currents eventually die out as they reach deeper
water. At that point the current will release you.
-
Swim parallel to shore and
then make your way in. If the waves prevent your return to shore
continue treading water and remain calm.
Strong Currents
Strong
Currents develop when there is the presence of wind. In Hawaii the Trade
Winds are a nearly constant companion. The stronger the wind blows, the
stronger a developing surface current might become. Generally these
currents flow in the direction of the wind flow, but not always. The shape
of the shoreline and the interaction of other deeper water currents can
cause surprising changes in the overall current flow around the islands.
When planning any activity, check to see if strong winds are forecast and
what direction they might be in. Observe any anchored boats to see the
direction they are drifting toward. These observations will give you clues
as to the direction and apparent strength of currents. Nothing can really
tell you about currents other than actually getting in them, then it could
be too late.
If you should find yourself in a strong current,
fighting it directly may not be the sensible thing to do. Swimming at a
angle to the current, toward the shoreline, may help you get out of it
without exhausting you. Swim fins help a lot when swimming against a
current. I don't recommend entering the water without swim fins.
The best solution is to not get caught in one in
the first place, the farther from shore, the more likely there can be
invisible, strong, currents.
High Winds
Nearly
every day, the Trade Winds blow in Hawaii. Generally coming from the north
east, they keep the air moving and the temperature down. They also have
another effect, they help drive surface currents in the ocean. If it is a
really windy day, you can bet there is a fairly fast surface current
developing. If you are enjoying a day of sailing or kayaking, be aware
that the wind normally picks up in the late morning to early afternoon and
can go from flat calm to very brisk gusts, all in a very short time.
Before planning any beach or water activity, check out what the daily
weather, and especially the apparent wind strength, before you go.
There have been incidents in past years of
unskilled (and sometimes skilled) swimmers, wind surfers and kayakers
being blown out into the deep channels. In most cases tragedy was avoided
by the arrival of the Coast Guard or a passing tour or fishing boat. Not
only be aware of the prevailing conditions, but also be aware of your own
limitations. Don't be afraid to change activity plans at the last minute.
Rocks & Coral
In
Hawaii the rocks are formed from lava, much of which is extremely sharp
after it has cooled. Even on old, eroded lava rock, cuts and abrasions can
easily occur while walking on shore or in shallow water.
Coral is a living organism (at least live coral
is) that builds it's skeletons out of calcium obtained from sea water.
Most of the corals in Hawaii are of the hard, sharp type, the type that
prefers fast moving water and currents. Getting a cut on coral or rocks
can mean more than just an inconvenience. Strep and staff bacteria live
comfortably in Hawaii, any cut or scrape should be cleaned and disinfected
immediately. Hawaii
doesn't have fire coral, but all corals have various methods of protecting
themselves. One method used by the stony corals is a mucous secretion,
another is the employment of nematocysts. When coral cuts into skin
tissue, the wound often has a mixture of bacteria, pieces of coral,
stinging cells, digestive mucous, and other foreign bodies mixed in it.
Should a coral cut become infected a doctor
should be consulted to determine if the problem is a allergic reaction,
bacterial infection, or both. Often, coral cuts heal with a noticeable
raised scar, these often diminish over a long period of time.
Creatures
Some
creatures can bite, cut or sting. Below we list the most important ones:
Disclaimer
The
information contained within these pages is meant only as a general guide
as to what to expect when visiting Maui. This information is kept as
up-to-date as possible. Since weather and environmental conditions may
change quickly, it is always prudent to take into consideration weather
and environmental conditions when planning any activity. For
more general information
on Hawaii, go to: |
