Driving on the Hawaii Islands

Kauai's one main two-lane highway-Hwy. 56 along the north and east coasts and Hwy. 50 along the south-stays near the coastline as it circles three-quarters of the island; smaller roads branch off at various points along the coast. The rugged interior, where mountain peaks rise above 5,000 feet, is inaccessible by car.

Lihue is an ideal departure point for drives to the south, east and north coasts, as highway mile markers begin here.

Before heading for the beach, stop off at the Kauai Museum (808-245-6931), at 4428 Rice St. Housed in a structure made of lava rock, the museum's informative displays include exhibits on the volcanic eruptions that formed the island and descriptions about the various ethnic cultures that have contributed to Kauai's history.

Depart Lihue in the early afternoon and head southwest along Hwy. 50 for the short drive to Poipu Beach. Leave Hwy. 50 at Knudsen Gap and go south on Hwy. 520 through the Tunnel of Trees, a picturesque mile-long stretch of road shaded by a natural arch formed by eucalyptus trees.

About three miles north of Poipu Beach, the road passes through Old Koloa Town, a restored plantation town that prospered during the heyday of the sugar industry in the mid-1800s. On view here are the remains of the island's first sugar mill, which dates from 1835, along with a monument honoring the sugarcane workers.

Spend the afternoon at Poipu Beach, a resort area situated along the sunny, dry south coast. The beach attracts a mix of local residents and tourists who come to picnic, lie on the golden sand and enjoy such water sports as surfing, snorkeling, scuba diving and swimming.

A crowd-pleasing Poipu attraction is the natural phenomenon known as the Spouting Horn. This lava tube on the west end of the beach spews forth a roaring geyser as high as 60 feet.

For dinner, the House of Seafood (808-742-6433) at 1941 Poipu Rd. offers choice seafood specialties. Overnight in Poipu Beach.

Day 2:

Poipu Beach to Kokee State Park via Waimea Canyon (and return) 68 miles

The drive west along Hwy. 50 passes through sugarcane country into Hanepepe (hah-nah-pay-pay), which calls itself the "biggest little town" on Kauai. The artists who live in this rustic community have restored several older buildings and converted them into galleries and studios.

Continue west on Hwy. 50 to Waimea. To reach Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Park, take either Waimea Canyon Road out of Waimea or Kokee Road (Hwy. 550) and head north from the town of Kekaha a few miles past Waimea, off Hwy. 50.

It's recommended to take one road up to the canyon and the other back down. Both are full of twists and turns and provide spectacular views of the canyon floor.

Dubbed the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific." the 12-mile-long and one-mile-wide Waimea Canyon, which plunges more than 3,600 feet at its deepest point, is one of Hawaii's greatest natural wonders. The Waimea Canyon lookout and the Puu Hinahina lookout are two off-road stops that offer panoramic views for picture taking.

Just a few miles past Waimea Canyon, the road enters Kokee State Park and continues north through eucalyptus and koa forests to the canyon rim. The last lookout on the paved road-Kalalau Lookout-is situated at an altitude of approximately 4,000 feet. If the weather's good, there's a terrific view (facing north) of the most beautiful valleys on the Na Pali Coast.

Have lunch at the restaurant in the Kokee Lodge. Afterward, explore one of the hiking trails in the park, which vary in length from one to three and a half miles. Kokee is also a paradise for bird-watchers. In the late afternoon, begin the drive back to Poipu Beach.

Overnight at Poipu Beach.

Try a kayak trip; depart from the Small Boat Harbor adjacent to the main Nawiliwili Harbor in Lihue.

Enjoy dinner at the moderately priced Koloa Broiler (808-742-9122) in Koloa, which serves steaks, chicken and fish.

This delightful drive crosses the lush, undulating countryside and passes through tranquil small towns and along miles of coastline.

Stop just north of Lihue at Wailua Falls-twin torrents of water cascading down an 80-foot cliff-located on Hwy. 583 four miles off Hwy. 56. Retum to Hwy. 56 and continue north along the Coconut Coast (the name is derived from the region's stately coconut palms), which includes the towns of Wailua and Kapaa.

For lunch, try the Kapaa Fish & Chowder House (808-822-7488) in the town of Kapaa, just north of Wailua.

Arrive at Hanalei in the late afternoon and enjoy a swim and/or snorkel at Anini Beach. For dinner check out the spectacular view of the sunset at the Bali Hai restaurant in the Hanalei Bay Resort (808-826-6522). Overnight in Hanalei or Princeville.

At Haena Beach Park, there are three sets of caves and one of Kauai's best snorkeling sites at Kee Beach. The road comes to an end at Haena Point, directly in front of Kee Beach. Leading off the beach is the rugged, 1 1 -mile Kalalau Trail into Na Pali Coast State Park. The trail, which crosses cliff faces and descends into deep valleys, is Hawaii's most famous wilderness trek and recommended for experienced hikers and backpackers only. A much easier two-mile hike goes from the park to Hanakapiai Beach.

Overnight in Hanalei or Princeville.