HALEIWA is the main surfers’ hangout, combining alternative shops and cafes with upfront tourist traps. Most of the food around is vegetarian; at the back of the Celestial Natural Foods store, 66–443 Kamehameha Hwy, the Paradise Found Cafe (tel 808/6374640) serves breakfast and lunch for about $6 a time, while the friendly Coffee Gallery, in the North Shore Marketplace across the street (tel 808/637-5571), has occasional live music to go with its espressos and sandwiches.

Nearby, Waimea Falls Park is a commercial exploitation of what is nonetheless a beautiful valley, replete with waterfalls and river (daily 10am–5.30pm; $20 per person).

Recreational Areas (Beaches)

During winter months, huge waves break along this coastline. Surfers from all over the world migrate here each year to tackle these leviathans and many professional and amateur contests take place at various North Shore venues. During the summer, the the surf disappears and an almost lakelike calm takes over, making for excellent snorkeling and swimming conditions.

• Turtle Bay: Home of the Turtle Bay Hilton Golf and Tennis Resort, this sand-lined bay offers beach rentals of all sorts. Practice snorkelling, float without a care on an inflatable raft or simply stretch your legs after all that driving.
• Sunset Beach: Calm during summer months but surfing's mecca in winter, Sunset Beach is why Oahu's North Shore is world-famous. Not only have many surfing titles been won and lost here, but the scenery is stunning as well. Clear water, snow-white sand and more than enough sun make this a must-stop on any around-the-island journey.
• Ehukai: Home of the world-famous Banzai Pipeline, Ehukai is really one very long, beautiful beach. The ocean fronting the beach, however, is filled with treachery. Huge swells from North Pacific storms meet abruptly with a shallow coral reef, hurling tons of water shoreward. A hollow area -- or "tube" -- forms as the wave breaks. Surfers duck under the cascading waterfall -- termed the "lip" -- and ride inside the tube for as long as possible, often disappearing from view entirely and, hopefully, emerging a few seconds later. Quite a show, but don't try it.
• Shark's Cove: Don't let the name fool you -- this place is very user-friendly when the surf is down (in the summer). Ideal for snorkelling and scuba diving, this large beach park offers everything from a white-sand beach and grassy park to shallow tidepools and deep-water canyons.
• Waimea Bay: Home of the world's largest rideable waves in winter, Waimea Bay can be great for swimming and sunbathing during the summer. The bay -- across from Waimea Valley, Home of Waimea Falls Park -- is a perfect place to spend an entire morning or afternoon.
• Haleiwa Beach Park & Haleiwa Alii Beach Park: Across the Haleiwa Small Boat Harbor from one another, these two parks provide a plethora of possibilities. With beaches, playing fields, numerous amenities and jetskiing rentals nearby, each one is a worthy day-in-the-country destination.
• Mokuleia: Although the best reason for heading out to Mokuleia could be the polo matches that take place there, the beach park offers a refreshing respite from the summer heat. In winter, the surf's up, so perhaps a glider ride at the nearby Dillingham Airfield is a better bet.

Hiking Trails

• Ka`ena Point Natural Area Reserve is the westernmost point of O`ahu Island and is the site of one of the last intact sand dune ecosystems in the Hawaiian Islands. The moderate five-mile round-trip walk, two-four hours, is along rough rocky shoreline with mostly level walking. Ka`ena Point is usually hot and sunny so take water, snacks and dress appropriately. Native animals found at Ka`ena include the Hawaiian monk seal and Laysan albatross. Native plants like the beach naupaka, `ilima papa, hinahina and pohinahina and nehe grow here as well. Ka`ena Point is reached from Waianae to the south via the Farrington Highway 93. Drive to road’s end at Makua-Ka`ena Point State Park parking area and follow the trail signs 2½ miles to the point. From the east, take Highway 930 past Waialua and Mokuleia and park where the paved road ends, a mile beyond Camp Erdman. From there, it is 2½ miles to the point.

• Mokuleia Trail is 2½ miles long and is accessed by going on Kuaokala-Mokuleia Access Road to a paved road. Turn left to the forest reserve gate. Just before the gate, take a road right to the end, where Mokuleia Trail begins. The trail goes through Mokuleia Forest Reserve and Pahole Natural Area Reserve.

• Kealia Trail is 2.3 miles long. From North Shore, take Farrington Highway 930 past Camp Mokuleia, turn left into third Dillingham Airfield entrance. Proceed straight .4 mile to parking area at tower. Walk the gravel road toward pali (cliffs) through a gate in fence. The trail climbs up a hill on left. From the bottom, the trail switchbacks above the airfield. At one-mile, the trail crests at pali and becomes a dirt road running upward along the ridge connecting to Kuaokala Access Road. From the Waianae Coast, reach the trail by proceeding along Kuaokala Access Road from Ka`ena Point Satellite Tracking Station. Kealia Trail is 2.8 miles from the parking area on left.