The highest spot, just four miles out of Honolulu heading northeast, is the Nuuanu Pali Lookout. King Kamehameha finalized his conquest of Oahu here in 1795, forcing hundreds of enemy warriors over the edge of the cliffs; Mark Twain saw the battlefield seventy years later, littered with skulls.

The wide highway is barely adequate for its role as a major commuter thoroughfare connecting Honolulu with Kailua and Kaneohe, and a new tunnel is being dug which will inevitably bring further “development” to the windward side. Apart from the Japanese Buddhist Byodo-In Temple, in a spectacular setting hard against the mountains off Hwy-83 (daily 8.30am–4.30pm; $2), there’s little worth seeing. The best way to get a close-up view of the inaccessible inland cliffs is on the attractive hiking trails in Kahana Valley State Park (no opening hours or fee), a dozen miles short of the island’s northernmost tip.

Oahu’s leading paying attraction, with one million annual visitors, is the Polynesian Cultural Centre, slightly further north at Laie (Mon–Sat 12.30–9pm; $27). This haphazard mixture of real and bogus Polynesia – in which the history is firmly on the bogus side – is owned by the Mormons, and staffed by students from Brigham Young University right behind it. The imposing white Mormon Temple nearby was the first to be built outside the continental United States. TheBus #52 takes roughly two hours to get this far.

Recreational Areas (Beaches)

The Windward side of Oahu, as it is appropriately named, is exposed to nearly nonstop tradewinds, keeping things pleasant and cool. In addition, the shoreline is seemingly all sand-covered, so where one beach ends and another starts can often be anyone's guess! In other words, bring your beach supplies and pull over just about wherever you please!

• Kailua:
• Lanikai: Tucked away just south of Kailua, this narrow strip of sand undoubtedly serves up the best sunrises to be seen from anywhere on Oahu. Go early, wear a sweater and bring a favorite partner (a sunrise like this should always be shared with someone special).

• Kualoa: As you round the coast past Kaneohe, you'll notice a tiny islet offshore that looks like a hat. This is Mokoli'i, or "Giant Lizard," though it's commonly called Chinaman's Hat. The park fronting the islet is Kualoa Regional Park, a great place to relax during that round-the-island drive, or to simply take a snapshot with the famous islet in the background.
• Kahana: Kahana Bay breaks the east Oahu coastline like a scenic comma and can leave you feeling as if you're in a scene from the film "South Pacific." The calm crescent bay encircles a sandy shore, babbling brook and shady park. Very relaxing.

Hiking Trails

• Nu`uanu Pali State Wayside is about six miles above downtown Honolulu on the Pali Highway 61, which crosses the Ko`olau Mountains to Kailua on the windward coast. There is ample parking at the site. It’s just a short walk to the incredible vista of the 1,200-foot pali lookout, which provides an expansive view of the windward coast and mountains, including the Waimanalo, Kailua and Kane`ohe areas. Interpretive signs relate the story of the invasion of Kamehameha the Great from the Big Island about 1795.
• Maunawili Trail is a moderate to difficult nine-mile trail that takes you into some fairly untouched areas of O`ahu’s windward eastern side. Begin from the Pali Highway 61 side, hike about an hour in and then turn back. Otherwise you will end up in Waimanalo far down on the southeast coast of O`ahu. Take Pali Highway to Nu`uanu Pali State Wayside and follow Old Pali Road at right of lookout to the trailhead. There is also trail access just past (east) the Pali Tunnels at a scenic pullout on a sharp turn heading down to Kailua. The trail has some steep rises but is mostly level walking through rain forest and some open grassy areas. There are a few streams to cross. Beautiful views of east O`ahu coastal areas, mountains, ridges, sheer cliffs and valleys below. Good hiking shoes recommended. Take water and snacks.
• Kailuwa`a Falls is in Sacred Falls State Park on the northeast coast, one mile north of Hau`ula town on the Kamehameha Highway 83. This is a moderate 4½-mile round-trip hike to the base of the 80-foot-high Sacred Falls and swimming hole. The trail begins on an old cane haul road and crosses the Kaluanui stream twice as it goes into the narrow valley. The canyon is rich in lore of the legendary demigod, Kamapua`a. Danger! This canyon is susceptible to flash floods and falling rocks and is closed during rainy periods. 
• Hau`ula Trail System consists of three separate trails. From Kamehameha Highway 83 at Hau`ula, turn onto the northern access of Hau`ula Homestead Road across from Hau`ula Beach Park. Go .2 mile to a left bend in road. Trails begin straight ahead; park on gravel. Proceed along gravel road and turn left at the Forest Reserve cable. Hau`ula Loop is 2½ miles. The trail begins inland and where it branches off, take the right trail up the adjoining ridge. It crosses Waipilopilo Gulch to the next ridge overlooking Kaipapa`u Valley, returning across the gulch to rejoin the start of trail. Ma`akua Gulch is three miles. Follow the dirt road to the end. The trail continues inland and enters the canyon of Ma`akua Gulch, crosses a stream several times and leads to a waterfall and small pool. Ma`akua Ridge is 2½ miles. Follow the dirt road past Hau`ula Loop Trail intersection. The trail takes off left and crosses the gulch, switching back up Ma`akua Ridge and forming a loop. Go in either direction.

For more information on East Shore Oahu, go to:

• Chinaman's Hat (Mokoli'i Island)
• Polynesian Cultural Centre
• Goat Island