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Hawaii Ironman Highlights Hilo & East Coast Interior ITO Airport KOA Airport Kohala District Kona Coast North Coast South Coast Waipio Valley
Hawaii Islands (Big Island)
Waipio Valley
Hwy-240, which turns north off the Belt Road at HONOKAA, comes to an abrupt end after nine miles at the edge of Waipio Valley. As the southernmost of six successive sheer-walled valleys, this is the only one accessible by land – and it’s as close as Hawaii comes to the classic South Seas image of an isolated and self-sufficient valley, dense with fruit trees and laced by footpaths leading down to the sea. 

Just off the gray-sand beach of his boyhood home, Kamehameha the Great fought Kahekili of Oahu in 1791’s inconclusive but bloody “Battle of the Red-Mouthed Gun,” in which for the first time Hawaiian fleets were equipped with cannons, operated by foreign gunners. Spectacular waterfalls cascade down the valley’s flanks, but recurrent tidal waves have ensured that only a few taro farmers now live here.

It’s perfectly possible to walk down the steep, mile-long track into Waipio, but most visitors take tours, either in the four-wheel-drive vehicles of the Waipio Valley Shuttle (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; tel 808/775-7121; $35), at the Waipio Valley Art Works in Kukuihaele, a mile from the end of the road, in horse-drawn wagons (tel 808/775-9518; $40), or on horseback (tel 808/775-0419; $40). 

It’s permissible to camp discreetly on the beach, for which you need a permit from the Bishop Estate (tel 808/776-1104), or to stay in the spartan $15 rooms at Tom Araki’s Hotel, which is so remote that it doesn’t have electricity. Rough-and-tumble Honokaa itself has dorm beds and private rooms at the Hotel Honokaa Club on Mamane Street, and the Waipio Wayside B&B.

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