| There
are two ways to get into the tip of North Kohala. First, following 19 out
of Waimea brings you to Kawaihae where Route 270 leads north up the
coastline, through the main towns of Kapa'au (Kah-pah-OW) and Hawi
(Haw-VEE). This route leads the visitor through all of the major historic
sites, past the best beaches and culminates at the pali overlook above
Pololu Valley. The second, Route 250, is a picturesque country road
running along the base of the Kohala Mountains which is well worth the 20
mile drive, but for the purposes of this overview we will take 270.
The first spot of interest you will come to is
Lapakahi State Historical Park, about 12 miles north of Kawaihae, a 600
year old reconstructed fishing village with educational tours and
demonstrations of Hawaiian crafts and culture. Just next door, so to
speak, is the Koai'e Cove Marine Conservation District, an underwater
park.
Next you will come to two more beach parks,
Mahukona and Kapa'a. Both of these are a bit off the beaten path but not
difficult to find. Neither beach is ever very crowded and for beauty are
not the best Big Island has to offer, but they are secluded. This area can
be quite dangerous for swimming during the winter but it is an excellent
place for watching the humpbacks, beginning usually in December. The
whales generally come very close to shore at this point.
Continuing north brings you to Mo'okini Luakini
Heiau and the birthplace of Kamehameha. You can feel the history in the
air in this rugged, windswept country. This heiau (temple) is said
to have been built around 480 AD and was for the sole use of the ali'i
(royalty). Sacrifices to the gods were made here, some of them being of
the human variety. Always, I repeat, always, be respectful of the
surroundings when you are at a heiau. While not of religious significance
to westerners (or even many Hawaiians these days), they are still sacred
to some and important and cherished by all.
A minutes walk from the heiau will bring you to a
sign reading, Kamehameha Akahi Aina Hanau. Standing here you will
get a glimpse at the forces that shaped the greatest of all Hawaiian
chiefs, the conqueror and unifier of these islands. As you stand in this
isolated and wild spot you will understand why he was named Kamehameha,
The Lonely One.
Leaving this area we head further north and 270
begins to bend in an eastward direction, leading us to the old sugar town
of Hawi. Architectural debris from the now defunct Kohala Sugar Company
still looms over this sleepy village. There are some great little shops to
browse here.
Next we come to Kapa'au, another sleepy little
village famous primarily for its statue of Kamehameha. Commissioned in
1878 by King Kalakaua, the Lonely One still stands larger than life in
front of the Kapa'au courthouse.
East of Kapa'au you will see a sign directing you
to yet another historical sight. A short drive down a beautiful country
road will bring you to the Bond Estate, still almost undisturbed from its
creation in 1841. This mission estate is almost eerie in that it feels
like you've walked into someone's home while they've just stepped out for
a moment.
Next you come to Kalahikiloa Church, built by
Elias and Ellen Bond themselves in 1841. A two year struggle to build, the
church was a true labor of love. Go in and visit. The doors aren't locked
by the way, they slide instead of swinging open. A very unusual place.
Still heading toward the end of the road you come
to Keokea Beach Park, a pretty and somewhat secluded spot. Swimming here
is not advised, however, unless the water is noticeably calm.
The end of the road brings us to the Pololu
Valley lookout for another breathtaking view. But unlike Waipio, you can
walk down into this valley. Just be very careful as the trail gets really
slick after a rain. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to reach the valley
floor. Swimming should done cautiously as the rip off Pololu's black sand
beach can be treacherous. This is a great place to camp, enjoy the
seclusion, fish and just enjoy what Hawaii is all about.
South Kohala |
