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Hawaii Islands (Big Island)
Interior
The interior of the Big Island comes as a surprise: pastoral meadows roll over gentle hills where once stood forests of sandalwood. This is cattle-ranching country, most of it – ten percent of the island – owned by the United States’ largest private ranch, the Parker Ranch.
The fifty-mile Saddle Road cuts across the Big Island from Hilo to Kona, between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Even locals consider it dangerous, especially at night, as there are no facilities, and it’s a winding, foggy drive. If you do choose to chance it (in the daytime), you get some great views of the volcanoes – and a good deal of mist even then. Strictly speaking, you’re forbidden to drive it in a rental car.

WAIMEA (also known as Kamuela) is not the company town it once was – the Parker Ranch now employs just one hundred of its eight thousand inhabitants – but more of a sophisticated country-town resort, which retains traces of its cowboy past. Though you can no longer tour the ranch itself, there’s an interesting visitor center (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; $5) in town; the nearby Kamuela Museum is enjoyably eclectic and eccentric (daily 8am–5pm; $5).

Practicalities

B&B is booming in Waimea; in fact there’s little else. Barbara Campbell runs her own very appealing Waimea Gardens Cottage. The main alternatives are the refurbished Kamuela Inn, which is part inn, part luxury hotel and the more upmarket Waimea Country Lodge.

Merriman’s in Opelo Plaza (tel 808/885-6822) wins awards for its innovative cuisine, but if paying $20 for an entree puts you off, cross the street and walk a few yards to the Waimea Coffee Co in Parker Square (tel 808/885-4472), which offers good coffees and vegetarian specials.

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