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The Centre De Plongee Marquises, operated by Xavier
Curvat, dives along more than 60 miles (100 kms) of rugged basalt coast.
There are sheer walls and a large number of caves to explore. Although
visibility at times is poor, it can reach 60 feet. Big pelagic fauna are
abundant, including eagle rays, stringrays, barracudas, manta rays and
hammerhead sharks.
Small groups of divers can reach dive sites to the
west and to the east with rides not exceeding one hour in each direction.
Many excellent sites are available within a few minutes and depending on the
weather and the size of the swell, 15 different sites are routinely
possible.
Hammerhead Guard Rock is a favorite site only ten
minutes from the dive shop. Frederic, our French divemaster, explains that
pounding two rocks together will attract hammerhead sharks but rapid
breathing will chase them away. There are no guarantees and after three
different dive attempts we still had not seen a single hammerhead. In fact,
I expected large numbers of many different sharks to be present around the
Marquesean island as it is located far out into the Pacific. But few sharks
were seen.
There are 15 different types of moray eels including
the dragon moray found only in the Marquesas. Friendly octopi are also found
in the crevices. Several kinds of lionfish are present.
Cave diving is very interesting with giant
lobsters, groups of stingrays and pockets of freshwater or air to explore.
Ekamako Cave, 15 minutes from the dive shop, has a wide mouth, 20 or more
stingrays and too many lobsters to count.
Along the east coast, only accessible when the seas
are flat, is home to a school of several hundred melon-headed whales
(closely related to the pygmyee orcas). The plan was to view them only by
snorkle as they do not fancy bubbles.
These friendly Pepanocepha electra frolicked as
Lynn, my dive buddy, assistant writer and artist, captured memories for
future paintings. November to April is a good time to swim with these
beautiful creatures and we decided to return another year to collect some
underwater video footage.
As the weather improved, we planned a journey to
the west side of the island to search for manta rays and hammerhead sharks.
Matateteiko Point has a shallow swim-through cave near its tip where we
entered to approach the dive site. On the other side of the cave we saw a
small stingray and then in the distance, a manta ray approached. The
excitement of the group increased as three more mantas joined the first to
circle and play with the divers. All four were small Black Mantas with many
small spots on their white ventral surface. After twenty minutes or more we
were out of air and had to conclude our manta fun.
Our very next dive we went around the point but
were unimpressed as the visibility was very bad. Returning to the surface
for our rest stop and with little reserve air the water became clear. All of
a sudden we were approached by a school of eight hammerhead sharks. By then
I was buddy-breathing with Lynn and almost out of digital frames. The
excitement overtook me and I was unable to capture a single image in the 15
second encounter. What I would have given for my video camera at that
moment! However, Lynn had to back-paddle as a large hammerhead approached.
She did not need a camera to capture the moment.
On our last day we journeyed into Ekamako Cave. It
is a large cave with two chambers. Lobster are plentiful as well as sting
rays. In the darkness of the first chamber, stingrays, sometimes numbering
twenty or more, settle on the sandy bottom and are quite approachable. There
was also a vertical tube filled with fresh water to taste. In the second
chamber, an air pocket was large enough to allow eight dives to surface and
breath the warm mist. As we finished our cave dive, we returned to the wide
mouth and rested upon the sandy bottom to meditate on the underwater
existence as light from the outside ocean streamed in past fish held
motionless in the ocean's surge.
In addition to diving, Nuhu Hiva affords many
opportunities for land and cultural experiences. The all day four-wheel
drive excursion to Anaho on the north side of the island passes waterfalls
and sweeping vistas. The beach at Anaho is not to be missed as the towering
rocks overhead creates a lost sense of primitive existence. Lobster at the
local restaurant and a visit to one of the important archeological sites
completes the day. Other excursions are available such as a two-hour hike to
one of the world's largest waterfalls near Hakaui. Boat and horse trips
reach areas not possible even by 4-wheel drive vehicles.
Marquesians have many gods; the turtle is for the
sea and the lizard for the land. Turtles are fertility symbols and are
depicted as part of many Tikis. One on the oldest Tikis is located at the
archeological site near Anaho. The sea turtle rests on top of the embrace of
the king and queen.
Plan to visit Hiva Oa, which can be connected on
your return, for a very small additional fee. However, you must be content
with the many land excursions as there are no diving facilities on this or
any other island other than Nuku Hiva. The beautiful Hiva Oa Hanakee Pearl
Lodge faces Mount Temetiu (3903 feet) with views of Bordelais canal and
harbor, the small village of Hanakee and the volcanic island of Tahuata in
the center of Traitors Bay. Each of the 20 bungalows (identical to Nuku Hiva)
were decorated individually with local artwork and have spectacular
panoramas.
Diving the remote cliffs of Nuku Hiva brings many
rewards both above and below the waterline. Diving highlights include
several endemic species including the dragon eel and white spineless sea
urchins. Peponcephala electra, eagle rays, mantas and hammerhead sharks
round out the experience. It is the lush jungles, shimmering bays, warm
people and intact culture that make the Marquesas a destination not to be
missed. For
more general information
on French Polynesia, go to: |
