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An hour and a half flight from Papeete ( 3
times a week, Mon,wed. and Fr.), rectangular-shaped Fakarava is the second
largest atoll in the Tuamotu, 37 miles long by 15 miles wide. It has a very
large pass at the north end and a smaller one at the south end.
Rotoava village has a small airport and is located 6
miles from the Garuae pass (one-kilometer wide). It is a charming village,
home to most of the atoll's 248 inhabitants. The only other - sort of -
settlement (10 people ) is on Tetamanu motu (islet) located at the
opposite end of the lagoon next to the smaller but prettier pass.
Fakarava's immense lagoon has several black pearl
farms, idyllic white sand beaches and is peppered with small islands, homes
to many breeds of nesting birds oblivious to visitors.
Tetamanu Village The best is one hour an a half away by a 30'
cruiser across the lagoon and along beautiful beaches to Tetamanu.
For the past 10 years, Sané Richmond and his wife
Annabelle have run a small B&B located at the inner edge of the south pass,
in a beautiful area near some charming remnants of a bygone Polynesian
village. There sits the oldest church in the Tuamotu, with the date of 1875
above the door. There are only about 10 local people living in this area,
and there is no road, no shop, just pristine nature and a stunning lagoon.
Being there is overwhelming, like stepping into one
of those old South Seas novels, where adventure and discovery is mixed with
breathtaking scenery, romance, and the warm, sensual trade winds in the
coconut palms. If you need to de-stress, this is the place.
Sané and Annabelle's guesthouse consists of 6 small
beach bungalows at the edge of the water, a few feet from a pristine
coral garden. They are built in local style, with 1 double bed and 1 regular
bed, a wardrobe, a sink, their own shower and toilet. There is only cool
water, but it is often welcome in this warm environment.
The "restaurant" is built on stilts on the reef at the
edge of the coral pass and serves excellent family-style fare, with lots of
freshly caught fish barbecued or prepared in delicious Tahitian recipes.
Meals are served on a long communal table in the shaded terrace overlooking
the pass and the lagoon. Lunch time is show time when you
will be amazed by every type of fish - from 6 foot moray eels to groupers to
small sharks - fighting for the scraps of food from your plate.
Snorkeling there is the best of anywhere,
in 80 degree water with 150' visibility. And
the crowds is made-up of many tropical fishes including huge napoleon
wrasses, white-tip, black-tip and (harmless) grey sharks, and sometimes
manta rays.
Fishing is also available from the pontoon,
or from the boat for tuna, marlin, mahi-mahi or wahoo, etc... A half day
charter is $300 for the boat and skipper (no gear).
Included in your stay are many excursions (conditions
permitting) to explore virgin beaches and desert islands full of nesting
birds.
Sané's wife, Annabelle has lived in Santa
Monica, CA, and speaks perfect English. She is a charming and outstanding
hostess by all accounts. Hotels op Fakareva: For
more general information
on French Polynesia, go to: |
