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The
Austral Islands are located south of Tahiti spread across 1,280km of the
South Pacific and straddle the Tropic of Capricorn. The combined
population of 6,500 Polynesians live on the islands of Rurutu, Tubuai,
Rimatara, Raivavae and Tapa.
The volcanic islands are sometimes
also known as the Tubuai Islands. The group comprises seven islands, plus
islets, with a total land area of c.115 sq mi (300 sq km). Tubuai, the
largest island (c.17 sq mi/44 sq km), was visited by Capt. James Cook in
1777 and was annexed by France in 1880.
European diseases and slavers very
nearly wiped out the native Polynesian population of the islands,
especially on Rapa. In 1938, French authorities imposed strict regulations
on immigration and tourism. Coffee, arrowroot, tobacco, and copra are
produced on the islands.
The Australs are famous for their arts -
elaborate woodcarvings and enormous stone tikis - although the
missionaries succeeded in destroying the ancient techniques and today
there are almost no traditional artisans. The Australs are quite varied,
although they have none of the fecund vegetation of the Societies to the
north, and feature limestone caverns, ruined temples (maraes) and
hilltop fortresses (pas) on the territory's southernmost island,
Rapa.
Far
removed from the distractions of civilisation, these hard working
fishermen and farmers live quiet, contented lives in their villages where
houses and churches are often built of coral limestone.
Rurutu
Rurutu is the most northerly of the Austral
Islands, located 572 km. (355 miles) southwest of Tahiti. A very pretty
island with a circumference of 32 km. (20 miles), Rurutu's highest
mountain, Taatioe, reaches an elevation of 389 meters (1,270 ft).
In the main village of Moerai there is a
gendarmerie, a post office with telephone facilities, an infirmary with
doctor and dentist, two branches of Tahiti banks, four small stores and
two bakeries, a couple of snack bars and a butcher shop. An electric
station provides 24-hour service, a radio and TV video station gives news
and entertainment, and there are primary and high schools. Moerai and the
villages of Avera and Hauti are home to the island's 2,015 inhabitants.
Rurutu does not have the wide lagoons found in
the Society Islands or in Tubuai and Raivavae. Swimming and snorkeling are
still possible in certain areas, however, and there are a few white sand
beaches. Activities include horseback riding and hiking to waterfalls,
where refreshing showers cascade into fern bordered pools.
Limestone grottoes with stalactites and
stalagmites invite explorers. Circle island tours by four-wheel drive
vehicle wind over rutted roads into cool valleys where fields of wild
"miri" sweet basil scent the breeze. Picnic lunches can be
packed for these trips or to play in the sun on deserted white sand
beaches.
A special attraction on Rurutu occurs each
January and July, when the young men and women of each village prove
themselves in a show of strength. Following a custom called "amoraa
ofai", unique to Rurutu, they attempt to lift huge volcanic stones to
their shoulders.The village champions hoist one sacred stone that weighs
330 lbs. (150 kg.). This accomplishment is followed by exuberant feasting
and dancing.
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