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Easter Island (Rapa Nui)

History

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Radio carbon dates suggest that Rapanui was settled sometime before the 4th century AD, probably from elsewhere in Eastern Polynesia, most probably the Marquesas. These voyagers, led by the intrepid culture hero, Hotu Matu`a, either fled warfare or a flooded island to land at the white sand beach of Anakena, and from there to divide up the land amongst his sons. Commencing with low ahu, temple complexes, these evolved over the early centuries to large structures, several metres in length and constructed, in small places, with carefully fitted stone facades, which some have sought to compare with the heavier Inca walls some thousands of kilometres distant. 

In the development of the ancient culture, there seems to have been a take off point sometime in the 7th or 8th centuries, with increased population (the coastal zone was settled by then) and an elaboration of the common Eastern Polynesian temple and commemorative patterns. 

We do not have any evidence as yet of "back rests" or slightly carved sacred stones of ancestors, but there are small figures, made of local materials that people began to erect.

One theory, put forward by archaeologist Sergio Rapu, is that the sweet potato, an important food plant of definite South American origin arrived on the island and became the fuel to drive the remarkable cultural development. This sweet potato culture, with its abundant and nutritious food, was able to produce one of the most remarkable cultures known to humans. The ahu grew in size to the gigantic one at Tongariki, being restored by University of Chile archaeologists Claudio Cristino and Patricia Vargas in 1992-3, which contained 13 moai. These commemorative figures, so heavily stylised were carved from volcanic tuft mainly at the main quarry of Rano Raraku, where one can follow easily the various stages of production. Most moai, intended to represent once known ancestors, are from 3.5m to 6m in height, but there are larger ones up to 10m.

Further elaboration brought people to carve additional red scoria top knots, representing ceremonial mud dressed hair. Something around 1,000 moai, some still buried in ahu and under eroded soil, were produced, with the last ones having radio carbon dates of around 1350AD. At around that time, now corroborated by John Flenley's work on ancient pollens, the moai building ceased, ahus fell into disrepair and Islanders began destructive battles in what seems to have been a time of famine, perhaps provoked by the "Little Ice Age" whose impact on Europe at that time is well documented.

The sacred site shifted from moai building to an annual "bird man ceremony" at the ceremonial village of Orongo, high on the cliffs of Rano Kau, overlooking the sea. There at an annual end of winter gathering, brave warriors plunged into the sea to retrieve the first laid egg of the sooty tern from some offshore islets. During this time, there were other events, such as the reading of the still undeciphered rongo-rongo boards at Anakena Beach. Ever inventive, the Rapanui tried to ameliorate war through elaborate ritual. The moai building complex was a time of peace, but the Orongo period from roughly the 14th century until European contact and settlement from the 18th century onwards, was one of constant battle, with destruction and canibalism. The last sighting of a standing moai on a platform was by a French naval vessel in 1832.

One of the stories that the tourist will hear perpetually about Rapanui is that the crucial battle that ended the culture was an epic confrontation between Hanau Eepe (Long Ears) and Hanau Momoko (Short Ears). This derives from a 19th century mistranslation of the crucial terms, first explained by Father Sebastian Englert over half a century ago, but ignored by those who wish to use this sort for their own purposes. Only one of these words could be confused with "ear", which is epe in Rapanui. In reality, the terms refer to the "short, corpulent people" (Hanau Eepe) and the "tall, thin people" (Hanau momoko). Perhaps its time that the mistranslation is finally put to rest?

European arrive. Some accounts give the Spanish credit for bumping into Rapanui and there is the residue that the English Pirate, Davis, might have made a 17th century call, but the first confirmed European landing is on Easter Day in 1722 by the Dutchman Jacob Roggeveen, and his three ships, who named it accordingly. Observations were made of Rapanui who came to the ship and there was one shore party, with 125 armed marines, who became jittery at the islander excitement and opened fire, killing an unknown number of welcoming hosts. A wild account of the time there and other adventures was published by a member of the crew, Fredrich Behrens, thus commencing the tradition of strange tales that have come such a part of the literature on the island.

Spain, rather late to get to known its "Spanish Lake" sent an expedition to Rapanui in 1770 under the command of Felipe Gonzalez y Haedo who in an elaborate ceremony, complete with flags and cannon, took possession of St. Charles Island (named for his king), generally leaving a good impression with the Rapanui. The Spanish initiative failed and the question of a claim there never taken up, but excellent maps were produced.

 
Four years later, on his second voyage, James Cook came up from his imposed, fruitless search for the Great South Land around Antarctica and glumly pronounced Rapanui worthless, through his sickly eyes; the great explorer did some maps of his usual high standard, but did not go ashore with his landing party, which consisted of the Tahitian Mahina, who promptly disappeared with the Rapanui, with whom he probably could converse. The Cook visit provides valuable ethnological information as does the subsequent one by La Pérouse two years later. A map from the La Pérouse visit shows the layout of the Hangaroa area to be remarkably like the road system found today.

About one hundred ships called at the island between the Spanish visit and 1862, with several stops by whalers in the 1820s and 1830s. In 1806, Captain Benjamin Page took a young Rapanui with him to London, where he was baptised "Henry Easter" at Rotherhithe in 1812. Mostly relations were good, with Rapanui trading their art work and food for European products, usually nails, cloth and the like, although haircuts enjoyed a vogue for a while!

Peruvian slavers. Labour shortages in Peru and a British ban on the importation of Chinese labour conspired with an Irish "migration consultant" to produce the disastrous blackbird raids on Rapanui, and elsewhere, as told by H. E. Maude, in his book Slavers in paradise, Stanford University Press, 1981. The island's population stood at about 3,500 persons in 1862, when the raids commenced in December of that year. There were subsequent attacks and over 1,000 were carried off to work on plantations and, even, as servants in private homes. French diplomatic pressure, and Peruvian realisation of what they had permitted their citizens and others to do, put an end to the raids in early 1863, but not before damage had been done. Tuberculosis and, from April, 1863, small pox began to take its terrible toll on the Rapanui and other islanders and hundreds died. There is no evidence that there were any survivors and only about a dozen returned to their home, bringing disease with them.

Missionaries. Through these events and owing to a report from a warship that had stopped at Rapanui just before the raids, a Lay Brother, Eugene Eyraud, who, though of French birth, had been a mechanic in Bolivia, persuaded the Sacred Hearts Mission in Valparaiso to let him lead a mission to Rapanui, which he did after stopping in Papeete, to return with a couple of Rapanui who had been stranded there during the raids. Eyraud, alone, endured nine months before being rescued. He returned with three more in a team that included the easy going Father Gaspar Zumbohm (German) and the emotional Father Hypolite Roussel (French). Eyraud died in 1868, of tuberculosis, but the others, joined by another Lay Brother, Theodule Escolan, continued their work, which included the burning of idols. A Frenchman, Jean Baptiste Onésime Dutrou-Bornier, who subsequently styled himself as "King" of Rapanui, turned up in partnership with Catholic Bishop Tepano Jaussen and businessman, John Brander. There is a falling out between Bornier and Roussel, with the latter leaving in 1871, taking a contingent to Mangareva. Bornier supervises more shipments of labour to the plantations owned by the Catholic Church and Brander. Most of these emigrants died. In 1876, Bornier is murdered by the islanders, who could take no more of his brutality and when Alphonse Pinart appears over the horizon in 1877, he is told by a Chilean foreman that there are 110 persons on the island with him.

Chilean interest. Chilean ships had called at Rapanui from as early as the 1830s, but serious contacts began in 1870. Flushed with pride at winning their "War of the Pacific" with Peru and Bolivia, Chilean patriots urge the acquisition of a colonial possession to validate their claims to nationhood. On 9 September 1888, Capitan Policarpo Toro Hurtado signs a deed of Cesion and another of Annexation with the chiefs of the island. The treaty is in both Spanish and a kind of Rapanui. In the latter, Chile offers to be a "friend of the land", whilst in the former the island becomes part of the Chilean state. Brander was to be compensated for his property, but full payment never took place. Policarpo Toro's brother, Pedro Pablo, ran a sheep ranch operation until 1892, when their ship (and fortunes) sank. Eventually, the Toro brothers sold their interests to one Enrique Merlet, who took a strong lead which eventually led to the killing of the last king of the island by poison, and the murder deportation of any opposition. It was at this time that the islanders were forceably herded into Hangaroa, when they remained as prisoners on their own island until 1966.

In time, a Chilean company, called appropriately Compania Explotadora de la Isla de Pascua, took over the interests which mainly were owned by the English-Scottish company, Williamson, Balfour, who prosper still on the Chilean mainland. Discounting a charge of dynamite placed in the centre of the superb Vinapu finely fitted ahu by Paymaster William Thompson in 1886, the first archaeology was carried out by Mrs. Scoresby Routledge, who remained on the island for 18 months in 1914-1915, during which time the German Pacific Squadron turned up to take on supplies! In 1934-5, a Franco-Belgian expedition spent about half a year taking down the most complete ethnological record to date. The Belgian, Henri Lavacherry, published his studies in French, but the Frenchman Alfred Métraux, published in both English and French, both popular and scientific accounts of his research. Father Sebastian Englert, a Capuchin missionary, arrived in 1935, mission Metraux, and remained the resident researcher and priest until his death, in Florida, in 1969, on his way back to Rapanui after an exhibition of Rapanui work. In 1955-6, Thor Heyerdahl led the Norwegian Expedition to Easter Island, resulting in several publications, including his still popular novelistic account, Aku Aku, available in many editions and languages. The Canadian Medical Expedition to Easter Island in 1964-5 was the last large scale research team to descend on the place.

Recent history. After an unexpected "revolt", really a cargo cult in 1914, the Chilean government began to send regular governors to represent Chilean interests on the island, to affirm sovereignty. After the first, all were naval officers, either active or retired. Increasingly, rule became more restrictive. In 1953, the contract for Williamson, Balfour was terminated and the Chilean Navy took over the entire running of the island. Throughout this century, Chilean authorities forbade islanders to leave the Hangaroa area, a fence being put around the settlement and written permission required to visit the rest of the island. After the escape of some Chilean political prisoners in the 1930s, Islanders movement off the island was severely controlled. This sparked about fifty islanders over the years to take to sea in small fishing boats, Boston whalers, about half of them dying in the attempt. After the Heyerdahl, there was some relaxation and in 1956 the first continent of school children was allowed to go to Chile to study, along with some guardians. Amongst this first group was Alfonso Rapu Haoa, who returned to his home in 1964 as a school teacher. As one of the first educated Rapanui, he resented the autocratic Naval rule and, due to his election as Mayor, the authorities called troops to the island. Eventually, the troops withdrew and the island became a fully incorporated part of Chile, the restrictions were removed and free elections held from 1966, even a special "Easter Island Law (16442)" was enacted, giving a series of benefits to spur development. This coincided with the coming of a US Air Force base to the island which caused considerable social change in a very few years, including birth of a few dozen half-American children, none of whom have been acknowledged either by their fathers or the American authorities. The election of Salvador Allende Gossens in 1970 prompted the Americans to depart hastily; the bloody Chilean coup of 1973 ended freedom on Rapanui and elsewhere in that unhappy country.

Rapanui under the military dictatorship flourished and Army strongman, Augusto Pinochet Ugarte visited the place three times, along with several of his ministers. Extensive public works were carried out, subsidised government housing and public buildings erected. The first Rapanui to be governor was appointed in 1984. The year before, an Elders Committee had been formed around Alberto Hotu Chavez who organised a letter, with the consent of virtually all the Islanders, to petition the United Nations Committee on Decolonisation for assistance in securing a referendum on independence on Easter Island. Mr. Hotu continued his agitation and community action throughout the 1980s as one of the few voices of protest during the long period of military rule in Chile. In 1992, Mr. Hotu was elected Mayor of the Municipality.

The most recent event on the island is the filming of a Hollywood style production using Rapanui themes, organised by actor Kevin Costner, with some local actors and an Australian technical crew. The making of the film is expected to occupy the first half of 1993, with a release date yet to be determined.

Air Links. In 1950, the idea of a trans-Pacific link, using Rapanui as a stopping off place, began to be floated and a rough 600m airstrip was built at Mataveri, in the SW of the island. Chilean Air Force pilot Roberto Parrague Singer took the first Catalina amphibian aircraft to Rapanui in 1951, but encountered difficulties in taking off with the necessary fuel for the return journey. Shortly afterwards, an Australian airman, (now Sir) Gordon Taylor called at Rapanui on a west-to-east survey flight. It was a decade before further significant developments took place, with the Tahiti-Rapanui-Santiago link established, mainly by Parrague, in the 1960s. People on the island know that "Manutara", as some call Parrague, occasionally pilots the LanChile aircraft that come to the island.

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We have included Easter Island in some of our specials to the South Pacific, eg. our Kontiki Voyage. Another option is to create your own package to Easter Island by utilizing the seperate travel components, like hotels, flights and excursions on the islands.


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