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Easter Island (Rapa Nui)

Culture (2), "The Fall of the Moai"

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Conflict: The Fall of the Moai
A chilling story of resource exploitation and destruction is beginning to come to light on Easter Island. The first westerners to discover the island wondered how any one could have survived on such a desolate, treeless place. Indeed, this was a mystery until recent core samples taken from the crater lakes showed that the island was heavily forested with a giant extinct palm while the Easter Island culture was active.

Apparently, the islanders were greeted with a lush tropical paradise when they first discovered it. It must have seemed inexhaustible. The trees were cut for lumber for housing, wood for fires, and eventually for the rollers and lever-like devices used to move and erect the Moai.

As the deforestation continued the Moai building competition turned into an obsession. The quarry was producing Moai at sizes that probably could never have been moved very far ( one unfinished Moai in the quarry is 70 feet tall!) And still the trees came down. With the loss of the forests, the land began to erode. The small amount of topsoil quickly washed into the sea. The crops began to fail and the clans turned on one another in a battle for the scarce resources. The symbols of the islanders' power and success, the Moai, were toppled.

Eyes were smashed out of the moai and often rocks were placed where the statues neck would fall so it would decapitate the Moai. The violence grew worse and worse. It was said that the victors would eat their dead enemies to gain strength. Bones found on the island show evidence of this cannibalism. With the scare food supplies it may have been a question of hunger as well as being ceremonial. 

A spooky cave of a (right) at the southwest corner of the island, Ana Kai Tangata, is translated to "cave where men are eaten"; Inside are pictographs painted in ochre and white of ghost like birds flying upwards. With no wood left to build boats, all the Rapa Nui people could do was look enviously at the birds that sail effortless through the sky. 

The Rapa Nui culture and community which had developed over the past 300 years, collapsed.

Their island was in shambles, and their villages and crops destroyed. There was no wood left on the island to build escape boats. The few survivors of the conflict, perhaps numbering as low as 750, began to pick up the pieces of their culture. One thing they left behind, however, were the Moai....

A New Cult
The Easter Islanders were more cutoff from the world then ever before. Any dreams of escaping the destroyed island were dashed by the lack of wood. The only boats they could build were small rafts and canoes made of tortoro reeds. Even fishing must have become extremely difficult at this point. The island was a wasteland, the eroded soils just barely producing enough food for the meager population to survive. It was under these conditions that the Birdman Cult arose.

 
It's possible that the Birdman practices has been going on during the reign of the statue cult, however, it eventually took over as the predominate religion on the island and was still in practice up till 1866-67.

High on the rim of the crater known as Rano Kau was the ceremonial village of Orongo. Built to worship the god of fertility - Makemake, it became the site of a grueling competition.

Each year leadership of the island was determined by the individual who could scale down the vertical slopes, swim out to one of three small islets in shark infested waters, and bring back the egg of the nesting Sooty Tern unbroken. The one who did this successfully was considered the Birdman of the year and was bestowed with special honors and privileges.

One of the most fascinating sights at Orongo are the hundreds of petroglyphs carved with birdman and Makemake images. Carved into solid basalt, they have resisted ages of harsh weather. It has been suggested that the images represent birdman competition winners. Over 480 birdman petroglyphs have been found on the island, mostly around Orongo.

 

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The rim of Rano Kau became the center of the Easter Island Birdman Cult
 

As birdman images transformed the rocks so to were the islanders transformed. It seemed that the culture was beginning to rebuild itself. We will never know whether the Rapa Nui would have survived and prospered because in 1862 wave after wave of slave traders landed on Easter Island and took away all healthy individuals. In the space of one year, a level of injury, death and disease was inflicted on the population leaving a broken people, bereft of leadership. As their culture lay in disarray a new force entered the seen whose actions would forever deny the world of a true understanding of the Rapa Nui culture.

The missionaries arrived on Easter when the people were at their most vulnerable. With their society in ruin it did not take long to convert the population to Christianity. First to go was the islanders style of dress, or lack of. Tattooing and use of body paint was banned. Destruction of Rapa Nui artworks, buildings, and sacred objects, including most of the Rongo Rongo Tablets - the key to understanding their history - was swift and complete. Islanders where forced off their ancestral lands and required to live in one small section of the island while the rest of the land was used for ranching.

Eventually all pure blood Rapa Nui died out. Annexation with Chile brought new influences and today there are only a few individuals left with ties to the original population.

Lessons from the Past?
A jewel of an island floating in an endless sea. A seemingly never ending supply of raw materials. Technological advances. Population Growth. Depletion of resources. War. Collapse. Sound familiar? 

The Easter Island story is a story for our times. We too are on an island floating on an endless sea. There are differences of course. You could say that Easter Island is tiny and that it was only a matter of time before the resources in such a closed system were used up. But, there are parallels between the islanders attitude towards their environment and our own, and this is the most frightening part of the story.

On an island as small as Easter, it was easy to see the effects of the deforestation as it was taking place. But, the inhabitants continued their destructive actions. They probably prayed to their gods to replenish the land so they could continue to rape it, but the gods didn't answer. And still the trees came down. 

Whatever one did to alter that ecosystem, the results were reasonably predictable. One could stand on the summit and see almost every point on the island. The person who felled the last tree could see that it was the last tree. Nonetheless, he (or she) still felled it.

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This is the really scary part. As our own forests fall to the bulldozers, there are many who are valiantly trying to save them. It is obvious, now that we have satellites showing us the massive deforestation, that there is a problem. And yet, our leaders, and even the majority of individuals look on, unconcerned. (How hot does it have to get before Rush Limbaugh admits something is changing?) 

They seem willing to bulldoze the last trees to build the Moai of our time -- technology & development. Will our monuments have to fall crashing to the ground before we learn our lesson? Will we have the sense to reconcile our lifestyles with the well-being of our environment? Or, is the human personality always the same as that of the person who felled the last tree?

For more information on the Sights of Easter Island, go to:

Go for further general information on Easter Island to:

For travel information on Easter Island, go to:

We have included Easter Island in some of our specials to the South Pacific, eg. our Kontiki Voyage. Another option is to create your own package to Easter Island by utilizing the seperate travel components, like hotels, flights and excursions on the islands.


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