| On
the 20th December therefore, we entered it, a fine Harbour and a large
Sound containing several fine Harbours, which Capt. Cook called Christmas
Sound, in Lat. 55° 27' Long. 70° 16' W. Here we spent our Christmas Day,
and as we had Roast Goose and Goose Pye and Boiled Goose, we enjoyed
ourselves greatly...
Here we met with a tree, the bark of which
resembled Cinnamon, and to us equally as good, and we took much of it on
board.
The whole Country here is covered with Ice and
Snow, to near the borders of the Shores, so that it looks compleatly
barran, only just in the Bays.
We left Christmas Sound on the 28th Dec. and
coasted it along shore, Surveying it as we went on, and on the 29th we
past the Famous Cape Horn, and entered once more the Southern Atlantic
Ocean. It is the Most Southern Point of Land, on a group of Islands of
different sizes, and is in Lat. 55° 58' Long. 68° 13' W.
After passing Cape Horn, we steered to the N.E.
for the Strait, Le Maire, and here we sent a boat ashore, in Success Bay,
which both in going and returning, met with such numbers of Whales as to
strike their oars on their backs. (Here it is, Where they have since
Established their Southern Whale Fishery.)
JANUARY 1775: When the boat came on board we
steered Eastward round Staten Land, surveying it as we went on, and on the
3rd Jany. 1775, we anchored in New Year Harbour (so called by Cook),
toward the East End of Staten Land. It is found by an Island from which,
as we ran along, we heard loud roarings, like wild beasts¹, for we could
see neither people nor smoke.
CJC: That there may be a continent, or large
tract of land, near the pole, I will not deny; on the contrary, I am of
opinion there is; and it is probable that we have seen a part of it. The
excessive cold, the many islands and vast floats of ice, all tend to prove
that there must be land to the south; and for my persuasion that this
southern land must lie, or extend, farthest to the north, opposite to the
Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans, I have already assigned some reasons;
to which I may add the greater degree of cold experienced by us in these
seas, than in the Southern Pacific Ocean under the same parallels of
latitude.
In this last ocean, the mercury in the
thermometer seldom fell so low as the freezing-point, till we were in 60°
and upwards; whereas in the others it fell as low in the latitude of 54°.
This was certainly owing to there being a greater quantity of ice, and to
its extending farther to the north, in these two seas than in the South
Pacific; and if ice be first formed at, or near land, of which I have no
doubt, it will follow that the land also extends farther north.
JE: We
sailed the next day, working round the end of the land, and left it
altogether on the 4th, steering to the Eastward until the 14th, when we
discovered a New Island, which Capt. Cook called the Island of South
Georgia². The North End of it is in Lat. 54° Long. 38° 23' W., but
except a small Island off the North End, which appeared green, the Whole
Island was covered with Snow, the Bays filled with Ice...
We ran nearly round the Island, so as to fix its
size, surveying it as we went along, and left it on the 24th. We steered
S.E. and then South, in to the Latitude of 60°, when we were stopped by
Large Ice Islands, Field and loose Ice. There we stood away to the N.E.,
passing many Large Ice Islands, and much loose Ice, until the morning of
the 31st. The weather being very thick and foggy, most providentially
cleared up for a short time, when the Man on the look out called out, Land
Ahead. The ship was instantly hauled to the Wind, and soon after tacked,
within a mile and half of the Rocks, which could not have been more than 2
miles off from the bearing I took when first seen, and which Cook called
Freezeland Peak [after the seaman, Samuel Freezland, who sighted it].
CJC: The formation or coagulation of ice islands
has not, to my knowledge, been thoroughly investigated. Some have supposed
them to be formed by the freezing of the water at the mouths of large
rivers, or great cataracts, where they accumulate till they are broken off
by their own weight. My observations will not allow me to acquiesce in
this opinion: because we never found any of the ice which we took up
incorporated with earth, or any of its produce, as I think it must have
been, had it been coagulated in land waters. It is a doubt with me,
whether there be any rivers in these countries. It is certain, that we saw
not a river, or stream of water, on all the coast of Georgia, nor on any
of the southern lands. Nor did we ever see a stream of water run from any
of the ice islands. How are we then to suppose that there are large
rivers? The valleys are covered, many fathoms deep, with everlasting snow;
and, at the sea, they terminate in icy cliffs of vast height. It is here
where the ice islands are formed; not from streams of water, but from
consolidated snow and sleet, which is almost continually falling or
drifting down from the mountains, especially in the winter, when the frost
must be intense. During that season, the ice-cliffs must so accumulate as
to fill up all the bays, be they ever so large. This is a fact which
cannot be doubted, as we have seen it so in summer. These cliffs
accumulate by continual falls of snow, and what drifts from the mountains,
till they are no longer able to support their own weight; and then large
pieces break off, which we call ice-islands...
Lands doomed by nature to perpetual frigidness;
never to feel the warmth of the sun's rays; whose horrible and savage
aspect I have not words to describe --- such are the lands we have
discovered; what then may we expect those to be which lie still farther to
the south? For we may reasonably suppose that we have seen the best, as
lying most to the north. If any one should have resolution and
perseverance to clear up this point by proceeding farther than I have
done, I shall not envy him the honour of the discovery; but I will be bold
to say, that the world will not be benefited by it.
JE: FEBRUARY
1775: As soon as the Ship was about we saw Land of an Immense Height all
along to Leeward, so high that we appeared looking to our own Mast heads,
and which to our surprize we must have been running by the side of, some
hours.
Finding that we could not clear the Land, we
tacked and stood to the North, as it was very unsafe to stay long in our
present situation. Therefore we do not know how far South it may go, or
what it may be connected with. It is more than probable that this Land is
connected with a Continent around the South Pole --- that must be
determined by some future Navigators, and under more favourable
circumstances.
Capt. Cook called the Southern part the Thule, as
being the most Southern Land yet discovered. It appeared of vast height,
and entirely covered with Snow, and the Shores and Bays filled with Ice.
Some small Islands that we saw off it shewed a green surface, but it does
not appear that any thing but Lions, Seals, Penguins, and so on can live
on it.
The Thule is in Lat. 59° 40' Long. 27° 40' W.;
the Northern Large Island (as we supposed) in Lat. 57° 40' Long. 26°
45', and two small Islands, called Candlemass Islands in Lat. 57°, Long.
27° 5' W., so that the Whole takes in Two degrees and a half of Latitude.
(Capt. Cook calls the Whole Country Sandwich Land).
But how broad we know not, for we did not see the
Eastern side of it, but left it on the 6th Feby., steering to the N.E.
passing many Ice Islands, and much loose Ice. The last we saw was in Lat.
51°. On the 6th of Feby. we experienced so heavy a fall of Snow, that it
filled and adhered so much to the Sails as to oblige us to throw the ship
up in the Wind occasionaly, otherwise she would have overset.
We continued steering Eastward, experiencing some
severe gales of wind (but gales of wind were nothing to us, so I have
seldom noticed them) until the 23rd Feby., when having run directly over
the spot where we saw the Large Quantity of Ice (when we first left the
Cape of Good Hope) [we knew we had] supposed Land without having seen the
least vestige. The last Ice Island we saw on this side was in Lat. 52°
52'.
MARCH 1775: We hauled up to the Northward, still
looking for Land as we went, but now every body began to be anxious to get
to Port, as we were all reduced to the Ship's provisions in all respects,
and that now grown very stale and bad and without nourishment.
On the 16th March saw two Sail under Dutch
Colours. On the 17th Capt. Cook called every body on the Quarter deck, and
informed us that He was ordered by the Lords of the Admiralty to require
every Officer and Gentleman, on their word of Honor, to give up to him all
our Charts, drawings, Journals, Log Books, etc., and that he must search
the Men's chests for such things. According, every thing was given up, and
sealed up by Capt. Cook, so that I can safely say that notwithstanding all
the pains I had taken, the next day I had not a figure to shew, any more
than if I had never been on the Voyage³.
We sent a Boat on board one of the Dutch Men, who
kindly supplied us with several articles of Provisions, and informed us
that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope a year
before, and that one of her Boats Crews had been all Killed and Eat by the
New Zealanders at Queen Charlotte Sound --- so here the Mystery of the
Story about Killing was accounted for.
On the 18th we saw three Sail more, and one of
them, the True Britton, Capt. Broadly, from China, bore down to us,
confirmed the story of the Adventure to us, and kindly supplied us
with Tea, Sugar, and other articles that we stood in much need of.
And on Wednesday, 22nd of March, we anchored safe
in Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope, after encountering a Hurricane of Wind
for a few hours, after an absence from it (or any other European Port) Two
Years and Four Months. So that the face of a European was a curiousity to
us.
But here it is necessary to observe that by
sailing Eastward round the World, we had gained a day upon the rest of the
World, so it was only the 21st with them, so that we were obliged to drop
a day, and take up theirs, by which means I always say we have a day more
in our lives than other people. We had sailed Twenty Thousand Leagues -
that is Sixty Thousand Miles - a distance nearly equal to three times
round the Globe.
In the harbour they found several Dutch ships,
some French, and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East India
Company's ship from China, bound directly to England, by whom they sent a
copy of the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and other
drawings, to the Admiralty. Before they had well got to an anchor, the
Captain dispatched an officer to acquaint the governor with their arrival,
and to request the necessary stores and refreshments, which were readily
granted. |
| Records
of the Admiralty, Whitehall, Captain's letters,
C. vol. 23.
|
H.M. Sloop Resolution
Table Bay, Cape Good Hope, 22nd March 1775
SIR, ...After having made the
circuit of the globe, and nothing more remained to be done, the
season of the year, and other circumstances, unnecessary I presume
to mention, determined me to steer for the Cape of Good Hope,
where I arrived on the date hereof, (22nd March 1775) and found Ceres,
Captain Newte, bound directly for England, by whom I transmit
this, together with an account of the proceedings of the whole
voyage, and such surveys, views, and other drawings as have been
made in it. The charts are partly constructed from my own
observations, and partly from Mr. Gilbert's, my master, whose
judgment and assiduity in this, as well as every other branch of
his profession, is exceeded by none. The views are all by Mr.
Hodges, and are so judiciously chosen and executed in so masterly
a manner, as will not only show the judgment and skill of the
artist, but will of themselves express their various designs; but
these are not all the works of that indefatigable gentleman; there
are several other views, portraits, and some valuable designs in
oil colours, which, for want of proper colours, time, and
conveniences, cannot be finished till after our arrival in
England. The other gentlemen whom Government thought proper to
send out, have each contributed his share to the success of the
voyage. I have received every assistance I could require from Mr.
Walls, the astronomer. Mr. Kendal's watch exceeded the
expectations of its most zealous advocates, and by being now and
then corrected by lunar observations, has been our faithful guide
through all the vicissitudes of climates. In justice to my
officers and crew, I must say they have gone through the dangers
and fatigues of the voyage with the utmost constancy and
cheerfulness: this, together with the great skill, care, and
attention of Mr. Patten, the surgeon, has not a little contributed
to that uninterrupted good state of health we have all along
enjoyed; for it cannot be said that we have lost one man by
sickness since we left England. If I have failed in discovering a
continent, it is because it does not exist in a navigable sea, and
not for want of looking after; - insurmountable difficulties were
the bounds to my researches to the south... researches [which]
have not been confined to a continent alone, but to the isles and
every other object that could contribute to finish the exploring
the Southern Hemisphere; how far I may have succeeded I submit to
their Lordships' better judgment.
|
|
The day after Captain Cook's arrival at the Cape
of Good Hope, he waited on the governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other
principal officers, who received and treated him with the greatest
politeness.
They had only three men on board, whom it was
thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of their health; and
for these the Captain procured quarters at the rate of thirty stivers, or
half a crown per day, for which they were provided with victuals, drink,
and lodging.
At this port, Mr Sparman left the ship,
conceiving himself not handsomly treated at different times by the elder
Mr Forster.
On examining the rudder, it was found necessary
to un-hang it, and take it on shore to repair. They were also delayed for
want of caulkers. At length they obtained two workmen from one of the
Dutch ships; and the Dutton English East Indiaman coming in from Bengal,
Captain Rice obliged Captain Cook with two more, so that by the 26th of
April this work was finished; and having got on board all necessary
stores, and a fresh supply of provisions and water, they took leave of the
governor and the next morning repaired on board.
JE:Having
got every thing compleated and ready for Sea, we sailed from the Cape of
Good Hope on the 27th April, in company of a Spanish and Danish Frigate,
and the Dutton East India Man. The two former ran out on each side of us,
and saluted us, Music playing on board the Dane all the time. This was
done in compliment to Capt. Cook, and had a very pretty effect. We
returned the salute, and in this way for some hours, The Frigates left us,
and We steered for St Helena in a streight line, trusting to our Watch and
Lunar Observations.
The day before we saw St Helena the Dutton spoke
to us and said that they were afraid that we should miss the Island, but
Capt. Cook laughed at them, and told them that he would run their jibboom
on the Island if they chose, and on the 15th May we saw the Land, and
anchored in the Bay before the Town in the Evening.
MAY 1775: This is an Island that most of the
India Ships stop at, as well as Men of War, in their passage home. About
30 Miles around, and looks beautiful from the Ship. The Beef is very good,
and you may get part Vegetables, and excelent Water. The Women are very
Pretty, and the People generaly hospitable.
Having taken in part Water, and so on, we left
St. Helena on the 21st of May, and steered for the Island of Ascension,
and on the 28th anchored in Cross Bay, where we found an American
Schooner, waiting to smuggle with the India Men. This is an uninhabited
Island, 10 Miles long, and of no use but to catch Turtle at. We sent
parties on shore every night to the 31st, when we left the Island,
steering to the N.W.
JUNE 1775: On the 9th June we made the Island of
Fernando do Noronha in Lat 3° 53' S., Long. 32° 34' W., on the coast of
Brazil. From here we steered away for the Azores, and on the 14th July
anchored in Fayal Bay.
JULY 1775: Here we got plenty of Beef, Pork,
Poultry, Fruit, Vegetables and Wine. Mutton not good. Here and at other
Islands in View of this are several Convents for Nuns. In this Island
alone, they have 3 Convents for Men, and 2 for Women, and 8 Churches. We
spent some hours every day in talking at the grates to two beautiful
Spanish Nuns. Not a Glass Window in the Place except in the Churches and
the House of the English Consul. All the others are latticed, which gives
them the appearance of prisons.
We left this place on the 19th July, and steered
for England, and on the 29th made the Land near Plymouth. The next day,
30th, we anchored safe at Spithead, after an absence from England of Three
Years and Eighteen Days.
Captain Cook went ashore in Portsmouth, and set
out for London, in company with Messrs Wales, Forster, and Hodges. On the
9th of August, he was promoted to the rank of Post Captain, in
acknowledgment of his eminent services and brilliant discoveries. |
