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August 6th we were in Latd. 19:46 S and Longitude
227.42 Et. here we got the SE Trade wind and steering West we made great
way for our much desired Port of Tahiti.
JE: AUGUST 1773. We arrived at Otaheite on the
15th August, and had very nearly been lost upon a Reef of rocks near the
first Bay we stood in for, owing to its falling calm, and a strong Current
setting in towards the reef, but owing to a kind providence, and great
exertions on our part, we escaped the danger,² and came to an anchor,
where crowds of the Natives came on board. We took on board fresh Water,
got fruit; but not being a place likely to supply us with Hogs, we left it
and proceeded to Matavai Bay (or Point Venus), where we arrived on the
25th. There we set up Tents on shore for the Coopers, Sailmakers,
Armourers and so on, under a guard of Marines, and proceeded to refit the
Ship in what was necessary.
This Island appeared to us to be the Paradice of
those Seas, the Men being all fine, tall, well-made, with humane open
countenances; the Women beautiful, compaired with all those we had seen,
of the Middle Size, zingy, suple figures, fine teeth and Eyes, and the
finest formed Hands, fingers, and Arms that I ever saw, with lively
dispositions. And tho the Men were inclined to steal little things from
us, yet the Women seemed free from this propensity. In fact, when we were
on shore here we felt ouselves in perfect ease and safety. And we had
daily Crowds of both sexes, round and on board the Ship, bringing Fruit in
abundance and poultry, but few Hogs, the later of which we much wanted.
RP: SEPTEMBER 1773. Sept. 1st we weigh'd our
anchors and stood out of the Bay towards the Island of Oahine [Huahine]
which we got sight of the Next Day about noon; haveing Imaio [Moorea] to
the South east of us; this last is a high Isle laying about 7 Leag. to the
west of Otahite its Inhabitants the same as the Otahiteans and subject to
Otoo who has a governor upon it.
On the 3d in the Morning we got off the Entrance
of Owarre Bay [Fare] in Oahine, but the Trade wind blowing right out, we
were obliged to work in and the passage being very narrow, the Adventure
had the misfortune to get on a Point of Rocks, but with timely assistance
we got her off without receiving any harm; and got both ships into the
harbour.
Here the Natives came off with Plenty of Hoggs,
which gave us great hopes, nor were we disappointed for by Night we had
got fifty and next Day resolving to get as many as we could we sent Boats
along-shore to purchass all they could who return'd at night loaded so
that we had 200 Hoggs. This was a brave relief to us and persuing the same
Plan next day we accumulated our number to 500 so that we were easy
whether we got any more or not as we had no plan or conveniency to put
more away.
Oahine is but a small Island in comparison to
Otahite its Circumferance being only about 7 Leag. it is divided in the
Middle by two Deep Bays and a narrow channel in which there is not water
for a boat. Besides these Bays there are many others which run into the
Land very deep - the Land in general is high and has many fine and fertile
Vallies which with rocky hills form a variety of pleaseing landscapes. The
whole Island has a reef of Rocks round it and the Harbour of Owarre lays
at the NW End.
The day before we sail'd one of our Botanists
[Sparrman] going about carelessly in the wood some of the Natives took an
oppertunity to knock him down, and striping him took away his cloaths and
a Hanger, telling him to go home Naked, he came and made his complaint and
the King was made acquainted with it, he seem'd sorry for it but could do
nothing in it as the Men were fled into the mountains and the whole island
was allarmed, but said he would send for them and in the mean time [he]
would go on board the ship. Happening to be up in the woods at the same
time with 2 More we had like to have been knock'd in the Head for the
People we found all alarm'd and we knew not what, where upon we began to
walk down towards the ships but one Party attempted to hinder us, where
upon another rose in our difference. Thus prepaird they were going to
fight but seeing us resolved to side with our friends they thought the
advantages of our weapons too great so let us go quietly down.
In the Evening Part of the things came down but
no Men could be found, upon which the Old Chief was desired to go on shore
which he did with great reluctance as he said the People were not found,
this I think was much to his honour, but by repeated solicitations he at
last went, and as we had quarrel'd with the natives we concluded it now
best to be gone so fix'd on next morning to sail.
JE: We
sailed again for Ulietea [Raiatea] on the 8th Sept., but before I leave
Huaheine, I must notice Omai, a young Man whom Capt. Furneaux was induced
to take from the Island to visit England, much against the opinion of
Capt. Cook. The Man was by no means a good sample of the Country, either
in figure, complexion, rank, or connection. He was a friend of the
Armourer, and a fisherman, one of the lowest order, tho it is well known
that he conducted himself with great propriety while in England.
To Me the People of Ulietea appeared the
Handsomest (at least the Women) of any of this happy group, more courtly
in their Manners and diversions, dress, etc. the Women taking more pains
to set themselves off to advantage. Here they amused us two or three times
by exhibiting dramatic performances to a large Party of us, to our very
great entertainment. We likewise partook of an entertainment given by the
Chief, consisting of a large Hog, dressed whole, in a Hole made in the
Ground filled with hot Stones and Leaves (and which is called Barbecuing),
plenty of fruit, and which ate very well. It is no uncommon thing for
these people to eat young dogs; as one was killed and divided, our Mess
had the Fore Quarter, which was served up as Lamb, and tho there was
actually plenty of Fresh Pork on the table, myself and some of my
Messmates eat of it - merely from curiosity, and to say that we had eat
dog. And upon the same principle I have heard Capt. Cook declare that he
would taste anything which the Natives might present to him for that
purpose, for by such means he gained their confidence and friendship.
Here we walked about, amused ourselves, shot
birds and so on, with perfect safety, in general. Yet I had upon one
occasion nearly got my brains knocked out. Myself and Mess Mate Roberts
had taken a walk about two miles along the Seaside, passing several
Houses, when we met a Mr Fawlkner, of the Adventure, who told us that he
had been greatly insulted by some people in one of the Houses we had
passed. On returning, we passed the House, when Mr Fawlkner exclaimed:
This is the House where the Rascals insulted me, and in he walked. We both
followed, without knowing what he intended to do, but we had hardly got
into the House before in came three very stout Men, with large Clubs.
Fawlkner instantly took to his heels, and Roberts followed, leaving me
standing in the middle of the House (the three Men between me and the
door). They were both better armed than me, one having a small Sword, the
other a Cut and Thrust. Mine was only a Hanger. Yet in this situation, the
three Men with their Clubs held up before me, I stood composed,
considering which of them I should make a lounge at, and then try to
escape, when one of them opened a way for me, and beconed me to go, to my
very great satisfaction.
Whether this was done from humanity towards me,
or even from admiring the fortitude with which I kept my post, I know not,
but whatever their motives might be, the circumstance was pleasing to me.
I soon overtook my two companions, whom I rated pretty sharply for
deserting me, which so mortified Fawlkner, that I thought we should have
fought, for the purpose of proving that he was no coward.
Near this island lays one called Bolabola
[Borabora] inhabited by the finest race of Men, and the greatest warriors,
amongst them, and are most of them of a Caste called Aree Highs, who never
marry, and have particular marks by tatowing on the Legs, etc. We
therefore called them the Knights of Bolabola, and all our Mess conceived
the idea of having some mark put on ourselves, as connecting us together,
as well as to commemorate our having been at Otaheite. For which purpose,
we determined on having a compleat Star drawn and then Tattowed with
black, the same way as the Natives are tattowed, upon our left Breast,
and, painful as this operation was, we all underwent it, and have each a
very handsome Black Star on our left Breast, the size of a Crown Piece.
Hence we called ourselves Knights of Otaheite, but tho we intended to keep
this Badge to ourselves, yet we no sooner began to Bathe, than it spread
halfway through the Ship.
One extraordinary custom at Otaheite is that the
Men do not allow the Women (Pretty as they are) to Eat before them - that
is, in their presence. And it is no uncommon thing to see a Chief, in a
half sitting posture, with a female on each side, feeding him.
The Women, and every other person, uncover the
Upper parts of the body when ever the King makes his appearance.
Having got a good stock of Hogs and fruit, we
sailed from Ulietea towards the Friendly Isles on the 17th of September,
leaving our kind friends of the Society Isles with much regret.
OCTOBER 1773. Arriving at Middleburg [Eua], we
landed amongst a large collection of Friendly people, who received us with
the greatest kindness (Cook has given a Beautiful drawing of this landing)
supplying us with every thing they had, very readily - Hogs, Fowls, Yams,
Fruit, etc., altho it is supposed they had not seen a European for 150
years [since Abel Tasman's visit in 1643].
From Middleburg they sailed to
"Amsterdam" [Tongatapu], which they departed on the 7th of
October and steered for Queen Charlotte Sound a second time - arriving on
the 3rd of November. Along the way, they lost sight of the Adventure
during a storm and saw no more of her during the voyage.³
JE: NOVEMBER 1773. After mooring the the Ship in
a Snug Bay we got a tent on shore, for the purposes of Watering, Wooding,
Mending Casks, and so on, our sails having sufferred much by the gales of
Wind that we had to contend with in getting in, as well as the Ships
rigging.
But here we were always much more on our guard,
respecting the Natives, than we were amongst the Society Isles. We soon
had some of the Natives to visit us, bringing fish to sell, which made
them of great use to us, for altho it was a constant custom at New Zealand
to send the small Boat to fish at daylight, yet they were the more
dexterious fishermen. We had more of the Natives this time than the last,
and we frequently could hear them yelling and druming all night on shore
in our Bay. Some times they told us they were going [to attack] their
Enemies, and then at night we were sure to hear their yells, and drums,
and see their fires.
Upon one occasion, the next afternoon, Mr
Pickersgill, the third Lieutenant, and two or three more, went on shore to
see if they could observe anything and tho the Natives appeared very shy
and jealous of them, yet in lifting up some of their coverings in a Canoe
they found the Head of a young Man of about 20 or 22 years old. This they
bought, and brought on board. Capt. Cook was then on Shore, but he soon
came on board and found the Head upon the Capstain on the Quarter deck.
Now tho it was pretty certain that those people
were Cannibals, and Capt. Cook had told them so in his former Voyage, yet
he was doubted. He therefore thought this a very good opportunity to bring
the Matter to a Proof. Having brought two of the principal Men with him,
He told them we would not believe him that they eat Man's flesh. They
said, Yes, they always eat their Enemies. He then asked them if they would
eat part of the Man's head before them; they said Yes, only let it be
broiled on the fire. For this purpose two slices were cut from the lower
part of the Cheeks (for the Lower Jaw had been taken out to decorate the
inside of their War Canoes) and just broiled on a grid-iron. When ready,
it was brought to the two Men, who instantly eat it with all the avidity
of a Beef Steak, to the utmost horror of the Whole Quarter deck, and many
of the people, and to none more than Oedidee, the Native of Ulietea, who
cryed at the sight, and said a great deal to them to induce [them] to
relinquish so Horrid a custom, but to no purpose, we suppose, for they
only laughed at both him and us.
Having gotten everything ready for Sea, and given
time for the Adventure to rejoin them, Cook resolved "...not
to leave the coast without looking for her, where I thought it most likely
for her to be". It was with this view that they sailed from New
Zealand on the 25th of November, on 'Discoveries towards the South Pole',
and fired Signal Guns as long as they could see the Land, but without any
answer.
CJC: At daylight in the morning of the 26th, we
made sail round Cape Palliser, firing guns as usual as we ran along the
shore. In this manner we proceeded till we were three or four leagues to
the north-east of the cape, when the wind shifting to north-east, we bore
away to Cape Campbell, on the other side of the strait. Soon after seeing
a smoke ascend, at some distance inland away to the north-east, we hauled
the wind, and continued to ply till six o'clock in the evening; which was
several hours after the smoke disappeared, and left us not the least signs
of people. Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure
could neither be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours
thereof, I gave up looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any
more during the voyage; as no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after
leaving New Zealand. Nevertheless, this did not discourage me from fully
exploring the southern parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I
intended to employ the whole of the ensuing season.
On our quitting the coast, and, consequently, all
hopes of being joined by our consort, I had the satisfaction to find that
not a man was dejected, or thought the dangers we had yet to go through
were in the least increased by being alone; but as cheerfully proceeding
to the south, or wherever I might think proper to lead them, as if the Adventure,
or even more ships, had been in our company. |
