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| Pacific
Explorers Library |
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Captain Cook - The 2nd Voyage of
Discovery (2) |
| Transactions
in New Zealand (by Michael Dickinson) |



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| Dusky
Bay - CJC: As I did not like the place we had anchored in, I sent
Lieutenant Pickersgill over to the S.E. side of the bay, to search for a
better; and I went myself to the other side, for the same purpose, where I
met with an exceedingly snug harbour, but nothing else worthy of notice.
Mr. Pickersgill reported, upon his return, that he had found a good
harbour, with every conveniency. As I liked the situation of this better
than the other of my own finding, I determined to go there in the morning.
The fishing-boat was very successful; returning with fish sufficient for
all hands for supper, and, in a few hours in the morning, caught as many
as served for dinner. This gave us certain hopes of being plentifully
supplied with this article. Nor did the shores and woods appear less
destitute of wild-fowl; so that we hoped to enjoy with ease, what in our
situation might be called the luxuries of life. This determined me to stay
some time in this bay, in order to examine it thoroughly; as no one had
ever landed before, on any of the southern parts of this country.
JE: Duskey Bay is one of the finest Harbours (or
rather, Sounds) in the World, and one of the properest for ships to refit
at in those Seas, capable of containing all the Navys of Europe with
perfect safety. The country about it is compleatly covered with Wood of
large growth.
Here we hauled the Ship's stern into a very small
cove,¹ and within a hundred yards of the mouth of a Rivulet, which came
(as we afterwards found) from a beautiful Lake, a mile broad, about a mile
and a half up the Country, surrounded by very high hills covered with wood
and containing many beautiful birds. The Ship's side laying within ten
yards of the shore, with trees cut down, one end laid up on the ship's
side, the other end on the shore, and covered with boards, making a bridge
from the Ship to the Shore. In
this situation we lay six weeks, repairing the rigging, Water Casks,
Sails, and every thing else that wanted repair - taking in Water, wood,
and so on. At first we did not suppose that we had any of the Natives near
us, but upon one of Capt. Cook's Shooting Parties he found a Family,
consisting of a very fine old Man of about 60, 6 feet high, with a Wife
something younger, and a daughter about 22, the finest woman we saw in the
country, 5 feet 8 inches or 9 inches high, which he had taken to his
second Wife, and had a young child by her, which seemed to be the Old
Wife's business to nurse.² This family Capt. Cook by little presents and
other acts of kindness induced to come near the Ship. Viewing her for a
day, they came on board, and seemed very curious and much surprized at the
Ship, her Guns, and so on.
Upon another occasion Capt. Cook found more
Natives, at a distance up the Sound, and took much pains to gain an
intercourse with them, but they never came near the Ship. And certainly,
no man could be better calculated to gain the confidence of Savages than
Capt. Cook. He was brave, uncommonly Cool, Humane, and Patient. He would
land alone unarmed, or lay aside his Arms, and sit down when they
threatened with theirs, throwing them Beads, Knives, and other little
presents, then by degrees advancing nearer, till by patience and
forbearance, he gained their friendship and an intercourse with them,
which to people in our situation was of the utmost consequence.
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| Having got all ready for Sea we sailed out by a
different way, so near the shore sometimes as to touch the Trees with our
yards and Ensign staff, and in sailing along the coast for Queen Charlotte
Sound, we were rather alarmed by the appearance of the sky, it falling
calm and dark, portending a terrible storm, when by degrees we saw Seven
Water Spouts, arising from the Sea to the Heavens in large Columns, one of
which formed within a hundred yards of us, obliging us to have all our
Sails close down, for had the body of wind caught hold of us, that formed
the Water Spout, in all probability our Masts would have gone by the
board, and we could not do anything to avoid it, but most fortunately it
took a contrary direction, and a fair wind springing up, we proceeded on
our way. RP:
After we were clear of the Spout we again made sail, and by Morning were a
brest of Point Jackson, stand into Queen Charlottes Sound, here to
unspeakeable joy we saw the flashes of two guns from out of the Bay, this
we knew to be our Consort, as we had little wind we did not get in untill
near night so they sent out a Boat with refreshments to us but were much
surprized at our haveing fresh things on board; congratulations being
over, and both ships crews in health, we got safe to an Anchor, and were
saluted by the Adventure; which we return'd with equal salutation. We were
much surprized to find her not ready for sea, as she had been here ever
since the 8th of April (about 6 weeks), and Capt. Furneaux designed not to
have moved untill next spring had we not come, so that she detain'd us
longer here then we thought of staying.
JE: During
our stay here, which was near three Weeks, we saw many of the Natives,
both Men and Women.³ They are desperate, fearless, ferocious Cannibals,
the Men generaly about six feet high, with Limbs and sinews like an Ox,
dark copper coloured faces, fine white teeth, and eyes that strike fire,
when angry, and I declare that I have seen a couple of them, in giving us
the War Song on the Quarter deck, work themselves into a frenzey, foaming
at the mouth, and perfectly shaking the whole Quarter deck with their
feet. (Cook has given a good drawing of them.) And in this state they
attack their Enemies, and will rush upon Bayonets or anything else (The
Women are in general short and broad, and no beauties).
Yet with those desperate people we kept up a
friendly intercourse, they bringing us plenty of fish in exchange for
Beads, Knives, Hatchets, and so on, and selling their Implements of War -
which are Clubs, Spears, & Pattows, a desperate weapon for close
quarters. We saw some of their War Canoes, with 40 or 50 Men in each, who
in their anger, would strike the sides of the Ship with their weapons.
Some of the people took up their abode in the Bay
near us, for some days, neighbours that few people but ourselves would
have liked.
RP: Whilst we lay here the Natives visited us
many times behaveing with the greatest civilety and selling us fish in
great numbers. Amongst them, I could observe but few of our old
acquaintances, and on inquiry we found that they had had a battle with the
Inhabitants of the Northern Island in which numbers had been killed.
Whilst I was here I went up the Sound in a Boat
to one of their villages where we was detaind for some days by a foul
wind, and heavy rains, they behav'd very well all the time tho' I took
care of two things, the one was not to give affront and be allways on my
guard against them; the other was allways before Night to stand out to
sea, till day and then stand in shore into some little cove where they did
not know of me; by this means we got back safe.
Their Towns consisted of a number of little
Hutts, with a hole just big enough to creep in at and when you was in to
lay down, out of the inclemency of the weather, they dress their victuals
at a little fire before the door where they eat it; they live chiefly on
fish exept when they get the chance of an Enimy.
They are very miserable on account of their
Intestine wars, every sound or bay being at varience with their Neighbours
- they go out in parties of sometimes 200 men in boats and tracing the
shores if they can surprize any small parties, they attack them,
plundering their Houses and carrying off the Dead Bodies for Provision -
this way of waring makes them very watchfull and cautious, and I observ'd
that before we came to any chief town we allways found an advance Party;
whose business was on the sight of any strangers; to allarm the the chief
town and give them an opportunity of either putting their town in a state
of defence or retiring to one of their Hippas or forts which they have at
certain distances and generally built on a rock in the sea, difficult of
access and well provided against a siege; but this is their last resource
and wht I fancy they are seldom reduced too; as the parties near here are
more for plunder and surprize than for fair fighting.
June the 7th we sail'd from Charlottes Sound
haveing left behind us a breed of Goats and one of Hoggs
Landed in strange coves for fear the Indians should kill them.
On the 8th we pass'd that dangerous and
disagreable passage Cooks Straits, the Tide running with such rapidity,
that it occasioned the surface of the water to bubble up and boil like a
Caldron; tho' this I believe to be occasion'd by the many rocks and foul
Ground which we were happy enough to escape. Both sides of the Straits are
high Lands and Steep with numberless rocks even with the waters edge.
JE: We left New Zealand, on discoveries towards
Otaheite and had a circuitous and most dangerous navigation, amongst small
low Islands, shoals, and coral rocks, in many cases not to be seen, in the
night, until very near them, or alarmed by the Roaring of the breakers,
several of them never seen before. We were frequently obliged to have a
boat go before the Ship with a Lead and Line, to sound and to carry a
light at her Mast head to warn us of our danger before we got too near.
And in two or three instances in these Seas, we had only just time to tack
the Ship to prevent her sticking fast upon the Reef; her stern was tailing
amongst the breakers. Under such circumstances, it is easy to conceive
that it required both the abilities of a good officer, and a brave, cool
Man. |
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¹
Pickersgill Harbour
² The few Maori people met around Dusky Bay were dispersed members of the
Ngati Mamoe - one of the least-recorded and earliest settled New Zealand
tribes.
³ Elliot's first impressions of the Queen Charlotte Sound Maoris, written
down in hindsight, were tainted by reports of a later massacre of the Adventure's
crewmen. His log, which was written on the spot, contains no unfavourable
comments.
For
more information
on Captain Cook's Voyages, go to:
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