Cook Islands

Rarotonga (2)

Poinciana, known locally as 'flamboyants', are an import from South America but look wonderful against the predominant greens and blues of Rarotonga. Massive old trees can be found in the quieter parts such as along the ancient Ara Metua, the Great Road of Toi, built about 1000 AD from coral slabs. 

There is a regular round-the-island bus service which runs in both clockwise and anti-clockwise directions. Several companies offer bicycle, motor scooters and automobiles for rent.

In addition to its peacefulness, however, Rarotonga offers plenty of excitement for those seeking dancing, music and good companionship. Cabarets, discos and restaurants flourish except late on Saturday night when the Sabbath starts. In the daytime, the main township, Avarua, provides a selection of cafés and bars for those seeking a caffeine fix. 

The Blue Note, in the same building which once housed the notorious Banana Court bar, serves local coffee and dishes from its wide verandah and offers an uninterrupted view of the harbor.

Seafood is a staple of Polynesian cuisine and Rarotonga's restaurants offer traditional as well as island-style dishes. A delicacy is grilled 'mai-mai', the dolphin fish, a speciality at Trader Jack's in Avarua. Eating out is not cheap in Rarotonga, at least not by New Zealand standards. Much of the fare is fairly ordinary but gourmet dining can be found at the Flame Tree in Muri, the Portofino in Tupapa and the Tumunu in Arorangi. The hotels also offer extensive menus and usually a traditional island feast or 'umu kai' with accompanying dancing and drumming. The 'umu kai' is cooked in an earth oven by radiant heat from hot stones. There are lunch and café establishments in Avarua which also provide European and Polynesian meals.

Snorkelling

That said, the lagoon is safe and a delight for snorkellers. In recent years overfishing caused a decline in the fish and shellfish population. This has been addressed successfully by the imposition of 'raui' or bans in various parts of the lagoon. These are now the best places to see fish! They can be identified by boundary poles decorated with coconut fronds stuck into the lagoon. Between the poles it is strictly forbidden to take any fish, coral or shells. An excellent snorkelling location is in the 'raui' area of the southern lagoon just east of the village of Titikaveka near the TV transmission mast.

A shelving sand beach leads out to a channel between coral heads. As well as reef fish there are schools of small trevally here which are so used to swimmers that they will nibble at fingers which are not moving. A favorite food to take is frozen peas which they will take from the hand.  When the tide is in one can float a couple of feet above the coral massif and see up close the minute and colorful reef life which includes the nudibract, the delightful Spanish Dancer, a tiny red speckled blanket which flaps lazily across the anemones. There are keen local surfers who use the big waves coming in from the north at Avarua Harbor. A very popular swimming spot is at the famed Black Rock at the north-west end of the island just south of the airport runway. Rarotonga offers much for lovers of the sea, including lagoon cruises, sports fishing, diving and sailing.

Church

Not to be missed is Sunday morning service at one of the many churches distributed around the island. Most visitors exposed for the first time to Cook Islands hymn singing are astonished at the power of the voices and the quality of the harmony. The men turn out in their Sunday best and the women are always immaculate in their stiff 'rito' hats made of young coconut fibre. 

Churches are at Avarua, Arorangi, Titikaveka, Ngatangiia and Matavera. There is much interest also in wandering around the churchyards checking on the headstones. 

The Avarua CICC contains, among many others, the graves of Stephen Savage, the lexicographer, and nearby, the noted American author Robert Dean Frisbie who was the Cook Islands' Robert Louis Stephenson. Frisbie died in 1948 on Rarotonga but spent much of his life in the Cooks on Pukapuka. Frisbie's headstone, which is at the southern end of the churchyard is hard to find because of mildew and mould.

Market

If the fishing has been good the catch is displayed for sale at the market on the same day it was caught. Usually fresh tuna hangs tail first accompanied by the occasional four-foot wahoo. Visitors who can cook for themselves can get a real bargain if they like fresh tuna steaks. These are delicious dry-fried in a non-stick frypan with just a drop of oil.

There are cultural shows and exhibitions throughout the year and the two museums and libraries in Avarua are open throughout the week.

For more information on rarotonga, go to Rarotonga (1)

For more general information on Cook Islands, go to:

• Country Information on the Cook Islands
• Culture of the Cook Islands
• History of the Cook Islands
• Holidays & Festivals in Cook Islands
• Religion of the Cook Islands
• Visitors Information for the Cook Islands

For more regional information on Cook Islands, go to:

• Rarotonga
• Aitutaki
• Atiu
• Mauke
• Mitiaro
• Mangaia
• Northern Group
  • Penrhyn
  • Puka Puka
  • Rakahanga
  • Palmerston
  • Suwarrow
  • Nassau

For more product information on Cook Islands, go to:

• Diving in the Cook Islands
• Domestic Flights
• Excursions
• Hotels & Resorts
• Rental Cars
• Tours
• Weddings & Honeymoons

We have included the Cook Islands in some of our specials to the South Pacific, eg. our Bounty Voyage and South Sea Dream Voyage.