Western Australia (Margaret River Region)

Margaret River Town & Caves
The town of MARGARET RIVER, like the eponymous region, has come to symbolize every stress-worn Perthian’s dream to escape the rat race, set up a craft boutique or a sylvan getaway, and claim their share of the Good Life. It’s a favourite place for a mix of holiday-makers, partying wave-riders, floral-clad muses and the vanguard of fortunate “mappies” (middle-aged professionals) who moved in ahead of the real-estate boom. margretriver1-caves.jpg (49642 bytes)
Margaret River is not necessarily the best place actually to stay – prices can be high in summer when the town is busy – but it’s handy for shopping, eating out and browsing, while its tourist office (daily 9am–5pm; tel 08/9757 2911; amrta@netserv.net.au), on the Bussell Highway, represents the whole region. Westrail and South West Coach Lines buses visit daily from Perth; local taxis (tel 08/9757 3444) are used to being taken along on some serious wine-tasting jaunts. Highly recommended are local Bushtucker Tours (tel 08/9757 2466; $25), who run a four-hour eco-tour that’s also a lot of fun.

The range of accommodation is vast, with over sixty sites in the immediate vicinity, but the woodland settings out of town are the ones to go for; the tourist office has big portfolios full of ideas. The small Inne Town backpackers’ (free tel 1800/244 115; up to $18), on the main road at the north end of town, is ideally central. There’s also Margaret River Lodge, 2km out of town on Railway Terrace (tel & fax 08/9757 2532; up to $18), while Peppermint Brook Cottages (tel 08/9757 2485; $46–$94), at 1 Mann St, offers self-contained cottages sleeping six. Both the Margaret River (tel 08/9757 2180; on-site vans $31–45) and the Riverview (tel 08/9757 2270; on-site vans $31–45) caravan parks are just a kilometre out of town.

The whole countryside is dotted with charming restaurants, often attached to wineries, but in town try the Ark of Iris; the sesame burgers at the Country Kitchen; or join the young crowd at Settlers Bistro, the town’s main pub, which puts on live music in summer.

Margaret River caves

A band of limestone passing through the cape has created some 350 caves around Margaret River, four of which are open to the public. Most involve guided tours to avoid damage and accidents, with relatively high entrance fees and shuffling crowds rather detracting from the cavernous spectacle. Nevertheless, a visit to the region would be incomplete without seeing at least one. All are humid and include some long, stepped ascents, with temperatures around 17°C. Tours are less frequent from May to August – for more details about all except Ngilgi Cave, enquire at the Margaret River tourist office.

Jewel Cave (daily 9.30am–4pm, 7–12 tours per day; 30min; tel 08/9758 4541; $12). 8km north of Augusta on Caves Road. The best cave, featuring extraordinary and fragile formations such as five-metre “helictites” (delicate, straw-like formations) protected by breeze-proof doors. The lofty halls of the Jewel Cave and its underground wilderness are a sight to behold. Discovered in 1957 and opened for inspection in 1959 the cave is home to the largest straw stalactite to be found in any tourist cave. The discovery of fossil remains, Tasmanian Tiger (Thyiacine) dated at 25,000 years B.C. make the Jewel an important site for research.  Also includes a two-hour tour of Moondyne Cave (daily 10am & 2.30pm; maximum of six people; $30, with equipment supplied), a mildly adventurous and less rushed excursion with some belly crawling, although you won’t miss any amazing features by not taking the tour.

Mammoth Cave (daily 9am–4pm, 6–8 tours per day; 90min; $12). 21km south of Margaret River. Revealing prehistoric fauna from over 35 000 years the Mammoth Cave provides easy viewing of fossil remains. The Mammoth Cave was first recorded in 1850, later explored in 1895 and opened in 1904. Large cavern and easy access with some bones and fossils of extinct creatures, but it really should be your last choice.

Lake Cave (daily 9.30am–4pm, 7–12 tours per day; 30min; $12). 3.2km further south. The Lake cave holds an aura of peace and mystery with many limestone formations reflecting in the still waters of an underground stream. Lake Cave was first recorded by Fanny Bussell in 1867 and reveals a hidden wilderness of immense beauty. A collapsed cavern, overgrown with huge karri trees, is the impressive entrance to the cave where a unique “suspended table” hangs over the subterranean lake. The cave is also the site of the new Cave Works Interpretive Centre (daily 10am–5pm; tel 08/9757 7411; $5), dealing with all things speleological. It also offers special discount options to visit all the caves except Ngilgi.

Ngilgi Cave (daily 9.30am–3.30pm; $10). Not visited on the cave tours but with plenty of nooks to explore and delicate features to admire.

Attractions

  • Bellview Shell Museum
    Located at Whitchcliffe, 6km south of Margaret River. The Museum has one of the best shell collections in Australia.
  • Boranup Forest
    Follow Caves Road south on a splendid drive through some of the prettiest Karri forest in the State.
  • Margaret River Marron Farm
    Located 11km south of Margaret River on Wickham Road. Facilities for picnics, barbecues, swimming or viewing Marron in their various stages of development.

Events

  • Margaret River Food and Wine Festival in February
  • Margaret River Show in November
  • Margaret River Surf Classic in November