| The
town of MARGARET RIVER, like the eponymous region, has come to
symbolize every stress-worn Perthian’s dream to escape the rat race, set
up a craft boutique or a sylvan getaway, and claim their share of the Good
Life. It’s a favourite place for a mix of holiday-makers, partying
wave-riders, floral-clad muses and the vanguard of fortunate “mappies”
(middle-aged professionals) who moved in ahead of the real-estate boom. |
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| Margaret
River is not necessarily the best place actually to stay – prices can be
high in summer when the town is busy – but it’s handy for shopping,
eating out and browsing, while its tourist office (daily 9am–5pm;
tel 08/9757 2911; amrta@netserv.net.au), on the Bussell Highway,
represents the whole region. Westrail and South West Coach Lines buses
visit daily from Perth; local taxis (tel 08/9757 3444) are used to
being taken along on some serious wine-tasting jaunts. Highly recommended
are local Bushtucker Tours (tel 08/9757 2466; $25), who run a four-hour
eco-tour that’s also a lot of fun.
The range of accommodation is vast, with
over sixty sites in the immediate vicinity, but the woodland settings out
of town are the ones to go for; the tourist office has big portfolios full
of ideas. The small Inne Town backpackers’ (free tel
1800/244 115; up to $18), on the main road at the north end of town, is
ideally central. There’s also Margaret River Lodge, 2km out of
town on Railway Terrace (tel & fax 08/9757 2532; up to $18), while Peppermint
Brook Cottages (tel 08/9757 2485; $46–$94), at 1 Mann St, offers
self-contained cottages sleeping six. Both the Margaret River (tel
08/9757 2180; on-site vans $31–45) and the Riverview (tel 08/9757
2270; on-site vans $31–45) caravan parks are just a kilometre out
of town.
The whole countryside is dotted with charming restaurants,
often attached to wineries, but in town try the Ark of Iris; the
sesame burgers at the Country Kitchen; or join the young crowd at Settlers
Bistro, the town’s main pub, which puts on live music in summer.
Margaret River caves
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| A
band of limestone passing through the cape has created some 350 caves
around Margaret River, four of which are open to the public. Most involve
guided tours to avoid damage and accidents, with relatively high entrance
fees and shuffling crowds rather detracting from the cavernous spectacle.
Nevertheless, a visit to the region would be incomplete without seeing at
least one. All are humid and include some long, stepped ascents, with
temperatures around 17°C. Tours are less frequent from May to August –
for more details about all except Ngilgi Cave, enquire at the Margaret
River tourist office.
Jewel Cave (daily 9.30am–4pm, 7–12
tours per day; 30min; tel 08/9758 4541; $12).
8km north of Augusta on Caves Road. The best cave, featuring
extraordinary and fragile formations such as five-metre “helictites”
(delicate, straw-like formations) protected by breeze-proof doors. The lofty halls of the Jewel Cave and
its underground wilderness are a sight to behold. Discovered in 1957 and
opened for inspection in 1959 the cave is home to the largest straw
stalactite to be found in any tourist cave. The discovery of fossil
remains, Tasmanian Tiger (Thyiacine) dated at 25,000 years B.C. make the
Jewel an important site for research. Also
includes a two-hour tour of Moondyne Cave (daily 10am & 2.30pm;
maximum of six people; $30, with equipment supplied), a mildly adventurous
and less rushed excursion with some belly crawling, although you won’t
miss any amazing features by not taking the tour.
Mammoth Cave (daily 9am–4pm, 6–8 tours
per day; 90min; $12).
21km south of Margaret River. Revealing prehistoric fauna from over 35 000
years the Mammoth Cave provides easy viewing of fossil remains. The
Mammoth Cave was first recorded in 1850, later explored in 1895 and opened
in 1904. Large cavern and easy access with some bones and
fossils of extinct creatures, but it really should be your last choice.
Lake Cave (daily 9.30am–4pm, 7–12
tours per day; 30min; $12).
3.2km further south. The Lake cave holds an aura of peace and mystery with
many limestone formations reflecting in the still waters of an underground
stream. Lake Cave was first recorded by Fanny Bussell in 1867 and reveals
a hidden wilderness of immense beauty. A collapsed cavern, overgrown with huge karri
trees, is the impressive entrance to the cave where a unique “suspended
table” hangs over the subterranean lake. The cave is also the site of
the new Cave Works Interpretive Centre (daily 10am–5pm; tel
08/9757 7411; $5), dealing with all things speleological. It also offers
special discount options to visit all the caves except Ngilgi.
Ngilgi Cave (daily 9.30am–3.30pm; $10).
Not visited on the cave tours but with plenty of nooks to explore and
delicate features to admire.
Attractions |