In 1826, two years before the establishment of the Swan River Colony, the British sent Major Lockyer and a team of hopeful colonists to settle the strategic Princess Royal Harbour. It was a pre-emptive response to French exploration of Australia’s Southwest, and the small colony, originally called Fredrickstown, was allowed to grow at a natural pace – avoiding the vicissitudes of Swan River Mania that plagued Perth in the 1880s, when thousands of colonists poured into the town. Prior to the building of Fremantle Harbour in the 1890s, ALBANY was a key port on the route from England to Botany Bay, a coaling station in the age of steamers. It was also the last of Australia that many Anzacs saw on their way to Gallipoli in 1914.
The Town and around
On the Foreshore there’s a replica of the Amity (daily 9am–5pm; $2.50), the brig that landed its three-score colonists here on Boxing Day, 1826, after six months at sea. Nearby is the Old Gaol (daily 10am–4.30pm; $4), with the usual bare cells and barred doors. The Albany Residency Museum (daily 10am–5pm; free) is much more interesting, with meticulous displays of the town’s maritime history, a section on Aboriginal bush medicines, an annexe with an obsolete lighthouse lens that was too good to throw away and, upstairs, an educational see-and-touch gallery for children.
They’ve gone a bit over the top with telecom memorabilia at the Inter Colonial Communications Museum (Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 2–4pm; free) in the Old Post Office on Stirling Terrace, Albany’s most striking building; the museum features such fascinating displays as “dialling tones and switchboards through the ages”. Heading towards Middleton Beach, the curious tower on top of Mount Melville Lookout, off Serpentine Road, is colloquially known as “the spark plug”. One of two lookouts in Albany, this one offers the better seaward vista. From here, backtrack to York Street, turn left and head 2km down Middleton Road to The Old Farm, Strawberry Hill (daily 10am–5pm; closed June; $4), tucked behind modern houses in its own enchanting gardens. Reminiscent of an English cottage, the farm (WA’s first) provided the colonists with fruit and veg, while the 1836 building here housed visiting Governor Stirling and today offers Devonshire teas and displays of domestic accoutrements.
Middleton Beach itself is dominated by Albany’s pride and joy, the prestigious Esplanade Hotel, and the town’s main beach as well as the more sheltered inlet of Oyster Harbour. From the beach, head up Marine Drive and turn right towards Mount Clarence Lookout, with its Anzac memorial and, on a clear day, a view as far as the Stirling Ranges, 80km to the north. On the way down you pass The Forts (daily 9am–5pm; $4), an impressively restored naval installation dating from the end of the nineteenth century.
Southeast of town, Frenchman Bay Road curls round Princess Royal Harbour to Whaleworld (daily 9am–5pm, hourly tours 10am–4pm; $7), the site of Australia’s last whaling station until operations finally ceased in 1978. The informative tours begin with a gory video and move on to the crude and sickening whale-dismembering machinery and towering Cheyne IV whale chaser, before an upbeat, eco-ending in the skeleton shed.
Returning along the Torndirrup Peninsula, check out the view at Stony Hill but give the feeble blowholes a miss – they’re a washout unless the wind and swell are aligned properly. The Gap and Natural Bridge are well worth a look, however; there is something mesmeric about watching the Southern Ocean pound into the Gap’s boxed walls and rebound, frothing, in all directions, while the Natural Bridge satisfies those who get excited about “freaks of nature”. This area has claimed several lives, many by king waves that well up imperceptibly onto the shore here; play it safe, and don’t walk under the bridge.
Attractions
- Albany Whaleworld
Even before it ceased operating as the Cheynes Beach Whaling Company in 1978, Albany's oldest industry was one of the town's best known tourist attractions. In its heyday, the Station's chasers took up to 850 whales per season. Today, the restored Cheynes IV whale chaser stands high and dry as the centrepiece of Whaleworld. This is the only whaling museum created from an operational whaling station. - Albany Shell Museum
Houses a shell collection gathered from around the world.
Open daily except Saturday and located on Bay View Drive, Little Grove. - The Old Gaol
The Old Gaol was built in 1851 as the Convict Hiring Department and later became the District Gaol in 1872. In the early 1930's it became a store house. After it had stood empty for many years, the Albany Historical Society began its restoration in 1968. The Museum contains a fascinating collection of social and historical artifacts. Visitors can shut themselves in the black- hole or ramble through the numerous small rooms and cells. - The Albany Residency Museum
The Residency was built in the early 1850s and in 1975 it became the first branch of the Western Australian Museum outside the Perth area. It is a focal point for both the social and natural history of the Albany region, and includes a "See and Touch" gallery. - The Old Post Office-Inter Colonial
Communications Museum
This beautifully restored building evokes memories of the old coaching days of England. Planned in 1866, it was finally opened in 1870 and had a roof of Sheoak shingles. The ground floor was the Customs and Bond Store, the middle level for mail sorting and post office, and the third (Stirling Terrace) level was the Court, Magistrate's and Jury Rooms and holding cells for prisoners. Today, the building houses a restaurant, and an Inter-Colonial Communications Museum.
Open daily 10am-4pm. - The Old Farm, Strawberry Hill
Tucked away off Middleton Road, it was the site of the government farm for the settlement of Albany. The original cottage was built here in 1831,however the present two-storey stone structure was built in 1836 as home for the Government Resident, Captain Sir Richard Spencer. It has been maintained by the National Trust since 1964 and is renowned for its gardens. - Torndirrup National Park
The Torndirrup National Park is on the coast south of Albany and Princess Royal Harbour and includes some of the most spectacular scenery in Australia. The Gap is a 24m drop to the sea. When a heavy swell is running, the thunder of the ocean and the drifting spray are an awesome experience. The Natural Bridge, a, huge.granite suspension, bridge like in shape, is an awe-inspiring sight in heavy swells. Visitors are advised to take care when viewing. - Whale Watching
Southern Right Whales can be seen from July to November calving in the calm waters of sheltered bays in the Bremer Bay area. They can be seen from many vantage points along the coastline, at times as close as only 6 metres from shore, Occasionally Humpback Whales can be seen from a distance as well as other marine mammals such as dolphins and seals.
Porongurups, the Stirling Ranges and Mount Barker
Getting there & around
Eating
- Al Fornetto, York St (tel 08/9842 1060). Italian-style steak and seafood, as well as pizzas from $12. Daily 6pm–late.
- Café Bizzare, 42 Sterling Terrace. Trendy interior overlooking the bay, with meals for around $15. Wed–Sun 11.30am–late.
- Cello’s, Church Lane Rd, Kalgan River. Top-quality country restaurant in landscaped grounds 17km east of Albany. Thurs–Sun 11am–5pm.
- Cravings, Mermaid Ave, Emu Point (tel 08/9844 1111). Popular buffet place right by Emu Beach, with good-value seafood and chips next door. Daily 5.30pm–late.
- Dylan’s on the Terrace, 82 Stirling Terrace. Burger and pancake dispensary; good for early breakfast. Mon–Sat 7am–midnight, Sun 7am–10pm.
- Food Station, Lower York St. Cafeteria with daily specials around $9. Best of the fast and fluorescent joints. Daily 8am–9pm.
- Kookas, 204 Stirling Terrace (tel 08/9841 5889). Quaintly restored old house serving gourmet dinners at around $25 per person. Tues–Sat 11.30am–late.
- Sonatas, 17 Serpentine Rd. Upmarket steak and seafood outlet in the town centre. Tues–Sat 5pm–late.
Accommodation
Events
- Great Southern Wine Festival in February
- Wildflower Festival in September