Victoria (Eastern Region)

Wilsons Promontory National Park
WILSONS PROMONTORY, the most southerly part of the Australian mainland, was once joined by a land bridge to Tasmania. Its barbed hook juts out into Bass Strait, with a rocky coastline interspersed with sheltered sandy bays and coves; the coastal scenery is made even more stunning by the backdrop of granite ranges. It’s understandably Victoria’s most popular national park.

Just three hours from Melbourne is one of the finest national parks in the country, the 50,000 hectare Wilsons Promontory National Park. It was described by explorer George Bass as the "cornerstone of this continent called "New Holland" after he saw the Prom in the first days of 1798.

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Bass named the area Furneaux's Land but it was later renamed in honour of a prominent London businessman, Thomas Wilson. It is believed Wilsons Promontory was once part of a "land bridge" connecting the mainland with Tasmania. In another age the Prom is thought to have been an island. The gradual build up of a 20 kilometre stretch of sand dunes, known as the Yanakie Isthmus, is said to have reconnected the Prom with the mainland.

The Aborigines who once lived here were members of the Boon-Oor-Rong tribe and their middens are still evident on the western side of the promontory. Long before Bass's official visit, the area was frequented by sealers and whalers. Whale bones can still be seen in the waters of Sealers and Refuge Coves on the eastern side.

In many respects it is still much the same as it was at the time of Bass's first visit. It is comprised of imposing granite mountains, sweeping plains, thick forests and some of the finest beaches in the country. These range from sheltered little coves to long surf beaches.

The Prom is the ideal place for bushwalking and a full appreciation of the magnificent array of native wildlife Australia has to offer. The friendliest are the parrots which flock around anyone offering food at Tidal River.

Tidal River is the "capital" of the Prom. It is made up of an information centre, museum, caravan and camping grounds with some cabins. Here you will find a cairn which acknowledges the use of the Prom as a commando training camp during World War II.

LOCAL BEACHES AND WALKS AROUND YANAKIE SHALLOW INLET Hourigan Camp Lane Walk - This section of 'The Prom' offers visitors long sandy beaches after a pleasant stroll through a sheltered gully. By walking quietly along the track, you may see and hear the various birds and animals in their natural habitat. The beach offers sandy tidal flats, where at low tide the channel is clearly visible and on high tide a vast sheet of water consumes the Inlet. The area forms part of the Shallow Inlet Marine and Coastal Park and is popular for fishing and windsurfing. From Millar Road (see map) turn into - 'Hourigan Camp Lane', a short unmade road, and drive to the carpark.

Once you pass through the small gate, you are in Wilsons Promontory National Park. Follow the track along the boardwalk to the beach. Distance: 400metres/10 - 15mins one way - an easy walk. Lester Road - at the end of this road was the site of the original guest house for those wishing to travel further into the Promontory. From this location, people would wait until low tide, then set off driving around the beach of Shallow Inlet, along Cotters Beach, finally making their way down to the 'Darby River Chalet' (now demolished). Here you will find a lovely beach side picnic area near the caravan park. Adams Road - after a little climb down to the beach, you will find yourself at the lower reaches of the Shallow Inlet channel. This vast area is the nursery and breeding ground of several fish species.

CORNER INLET Duck Point Walk - Commencing on Foley Road, this trail leads through thickets of Coastal Tea-tree to the sheltered waters of Corner Inlet. Scenic views across the Inlet to the peaks of Wilsons Promontory are the feature of this walk. Distance 800 metres/30min return Shellcot Road - enter reserve area marked 'Red Bluff' and follow track to beach. It is very pleasant to walk in either direction, but to the right you will see the 'Red Bluff' jutting out. ('Red Bluff' is formed out of a very reddish clay) This is a very tidal area. Bluff Road - Follow a very bushy track down to the boat sheds. This is a mangrove area and can be quite squelchy under foot. To the left, towards 'Red Bluff', the very rare 'Yanakie Berry ' (bright red berries with very prickly leaves) can be seen in fruit in the late Autumn and early Winter. From this location enjoy the wonderful views over the Inlet 

Be aware that this is a tidal area, and even at low tide the shoreline can be very boggy. Yanakie Landing Walk - Starting at Foley Road the track wends its way down to the rocky beach area, then back up through the Old Quarry. Distance approximately a 1.3km circuit with some steep sections. The lookout has good views of Corner Inlet and over Mt.Singapore, Mt.Vereker, Mt.Margaret, Mt.Hunter, Mt.Roundback and Chinamans Knob. Charles Hall Road - an excellent location for observing the pristine environment and habitat of many species of wading birds. This is a very fragile and significant location with its marshes and small creeks, so tread gently.

Bushwalking

Many short walks begin from Tidal River, including a track accessible to wheelchairs. One of the best is the Squeaky Beach Nature Walk (1hr return), which crosses Tidal River, heads uphill and through a tea-tree canopy, finally ending on a beach of pure quartz sand that is indeed squeaky underfoot. The Lilly Pilly Gully Nature Walk (3hr return) is very rewarding, as it affords an excellent overview of the diverse vegetation of “the Prom”, from low-growing shrubs to heathland to open eucalypt forest, as well as scenic views. The walk starts at the Lilly Pilly Gully car park near Tidal River, follows a small valley and returns to the car park along the slopes of Mount Bishop. 

For overnight camping ($5 per person per night), you need to obtain a permit from the information centre at Tidal River, as there is a restriction on the number of people allowed on the campsites. Half the sites at each camping area are reserved for advance bookings (at least 21 days in advance; credit card phone bookings accepted), while the remaining sites can be booked on arrival in the park. Restrictions on length of stay apply – usually only one or two nights. The tracks in the southern section of the park are well defined and not too difficult; the campsites here have pit toilets and fresh water. 

The most popular walk here is the two- to three-day (36km) Sealers Cove–Refuge Cove–Waterloo Bay route, beginning and ending at the Mount Oberon car park. Crowds are much thinner in the remote north of the park, where there are no facilities and limited fresh water: this is the province of experienced, properly equipped bushwalkers. However, during summer holidays and at long weekends between November and the end of April all tracks become extremely busy, so book well in advance or show up early.

Practicalities

There’s no public transport to Wilsons Promontory; the nearest you can get to it is with the evening V/Line bus from Dandenong, which will take you as far as Foster on the South Gippsland Highway. With your own vehicle, the easiest way to get here from Melbourne without getting lost is to follow the South Gippsland Highway to Meeniyan, where you turn right onto Route 189 which takes you all the way to the park entrance. Once you get into the park, it’s 30km to Tidal River on a good sealed road. At the entrance you pay $8 per car – if you stay overnight, this is deducted from the cost.

The information centre (in summer Sun–Thurs 8.30am–7.30pm, Fri & Sat until 9.30pm; in winter daily 8am–6.30pm) at Tidal River is an obvious first stop. They have plenty of information, though not all of it is on display, so ask: the small booklet Discovering the Prom on Foot ($7.95) is invaluable if you’re attempting any of the overnight walks. Tidal River, situated by a small river on Norman Bay, is the park’s main camping and accommodation centre; colourful rainbow lorikeets fly around and land to be fed from people’s hands. There’s also a general store here (daily 9am–7pm), with a pricey supermarket section, takeaway food, fuel pumps and LP gas. 

Accommodation is arranged through the information centre, although from Christmas until the end of April – especially during public and school holidays – it’s virtually impossible to get somewhere to stay; many places are booked up to a year in advance. Accommodation in the very basic motor huts (use of the campsite’s facilities; linen not supplied) works out at $10 per person if you’re in a group of four to six people. 

The camping area, which can hold up to five hundred people, has all the creature comforts – hot showers, shops, a laundry and a summer outdoor cinema, and there are also some brand-new, self-contained holiday units sleeping up to six people.

Though the main campsite gets totally packed in summer, there are plenty of walking tracks and opportunities for bushcamping; the park’s big enough to allow you to escape the crowds, with about 130km of coastal scenery, and inland areas covered with tall forests, heathlands and salt marshes. You can swim at several of the beaches and even surf: Wilsons Prom Surf School, based at Tidal River, operates courses for all ages and abilities, with all equipment provided.