Victoria (Western Region)

Torquay
Torquay is where the Great Ocean Road begins its journey westward. Torquay is the surfing capital of Australia and some of the finest boardriders in the world flock to Bells Beach every year for the annual Easter Classic. Surfworld in Torquay is Australia's only surfing museum and Hall of Fame. As well as the wild surf, there are popular family beaches and picnic areas on the Esplanade and Fishermens Beach on Zeally Bay. From Torquay the road heads gently inland but the ocean is never far away. If you can't see it, the strong smell of salt in the air serves as a constant reminder.
TORQUAY is the centre of surf culture on Victoria’s “surf coast”, which extends from Point Lonsdale, on the Bellarine Peninsula, to Aireys Inlet; two local beaches, Jan Juc and Bells Beach, are solidly entrenched in Australian surfing mythology. If you’re not here for the surf, then there’s not really a lot happening: in hot weather the place is boisterously alive, but out of season it’s somnolent and low-key. The big event here is the Surf Classic, held at Bells Beach in Easter, which draws national and international contestants and thousands of spectators. Local buses run between Geelong and Torquay via Jan Juc – call Bellarine Transit (tel 03/5223 2111) for the latest information.

As you come into Torquay along the Great Ocean Road (Geelong Road in town), you’ll see the Surfcoast Plaza shopping centre, by far the best place to rent surf gear. The Surfworld Museum (daily 10am–4pm; $6) at the rear of the plaza is devoted to Torquay’s main industry – and a prosperous one it is, taking in at least $200 million a year. Surfworld features a wave-making machine, interactive videos that explain how waves are created, and displays about the history of surfing. 

The museum also functions as a tourist information outlet, handing out a few leaflets and brochures. Many of the biggest surfing businesses are based in Torquay, and every surf accessory conceivable is sold here. The biggest and oldest is Rip Curl, 101 Surf Coast Highway (daily 9am–5.30pm), which started making surfboards here in 1969 and now stocks all the major brands, as well as its own boards and gear. Based at the same shopping centre are showcase outlets for other big names, such as Billabong, Piping Hot and Quiksilver. Bargains can sometimes be found at Baines Beach Surf Seconds, around the corner on Baines Street (fourth factory on the right). The Mary Elliott Pottery, 80 Surfcoast Highway (open daily), is worth a look; it supplies tourist information as well.

A grassy public reserve shaded by huge Norfolk pines (with electric barbecues and picnic tables) runs along rocky Fisherman’s Beach and Front Beach. The Surf Beach (or “back beach”), south of Cosy Corner (a headland separating Front and Surf beaches), is backed by rugged cliffs and takes a full belting from the Southern Ocean; it’s patrolled in summer. Jan Juc, just south of Surf Beach across Torquay Golf Club, is also patrolled in season and has better swimming and surfing. The South Coast Walk to Aireys Inlet via Anglesea begins from here (25km; 8hr); the sector to Bells Beach is a one-hour, three-kilometre walk.

Practicalities

Accommodation in Torquay comprises a hostel, a couple of motels, several B&Bs, and a few caravan and camping parks. The Torquay Hotel/Motel, 36 Bell St is very centrally located, while Just June’s B&B, 12 Casino Court, is a homestay option in a modern home on a quiet street at the north end of town. 

When it comes to food, there are a few excellent, typically casual, places designed to satisfy a surfer’s hunger: Micha’s Restaurant on the Esplanade, 23 The Esplanade (tel 03/5261 2460; licensed or BYO), is a longtime favourite dinner spot serving Mexican food and cheap drinks – you’ll need to book at summer weekends. Stoney’s Restaurant & Cafe, 7 Gilbert St (daily until late), serves good coffee, snacks and meals, and you can eat at their tables outside. The surfers’ all-time favourite, however, is Yummy Yoghurt, a tiny café at 3 Gilbert St, which has simple vegetarian dishes, milkshakes and frozen yoghurt; its walls are covered with testimonials from surfing champions. Good ice cream is sold at The Great Australian Ice Creamery, Shop 4, 57 Surfcoast Highway, and The Scandinavian Ice Cream Company, 34 Bell St. 

For entertainment, surfies head for the Torquay Hotel, 36 Bell St, where live bands play at weekends. At Jan Juc, Pabs Tavern, on Stuart Avenue, is also a favourite hangout, known for its good food.

For surfing lessons, call Go Ride a Wave (tel 03/5263 2111), an outdoors activities company based in neighbouring Anglesea. If you feel like taking to the air, turn to Tiger Moth World Adventure Park, a family amusement park on the Bellarine Peninsula halfway between Geelong and Queenscliff (tel 03/5261 5100), which has lots of fun and sports facilities, most of them water-based. They also do scenic flights aboard vintage Tiger Moths, a typical trip flies over the Twelve Apostles ($60; min three people).

Events

  • Torquay High Tide Festival (November)