Mildura

Victoria (Western Region)

Mildura
An oasis in the desert, Mildura is a thriving monument to irrigation. It was given life by the waters of The Murray in 1885 when the Chaffey Brothers established an American-style irrigation colony. Their ingenuity reaped rewards. Since 1893, Mildura has produced some of Australia's most delicious fruits. Trellised fields, heavy with table and wine grapes and hectares of citrus fruits are today the modern harvest of the planning of a century ago. In fact, one seventh of Australia's citrus growers are concentrated here. To the southwest especially is an almost entirely empty area, evocatively named Sunset Country, with nothing but gnarled mallee scrub, red sand and pink salt lakes (reached via Linga on the Mallee Highway). Mildura’s wide streets are lined with palms, giving a balmy impression even in the mild winter sunshine. It makes a good winter getaway, but summer can be stiflingly, unremittingly hot – the green grape vines in the surrounding countryside and the flowers and towering red gums that line Deakin Avenue, the main thoroughfare, offer some relief, but you’d do best to avoid the area then.

It is a city of white-washed buildings, nurtured green lawns, brimming fountains and shady avenues, yet surrounded by the parched lands of this semi-desert region. Sights are thin on the ground here, and probably the most interesting thing to do is to head for the river and watch traffic passing through the seventy-year-old Mildura Weir system, designed to provide stable pools for irrigation and to enable navigation throughout the year. Deakin Avenue runs northwest through town to the river, with 7th Street and the train station facing the parklands that run along the river. Like any self-respecting small city, Mildura has its mall, which runs parallel to Deakin Avenue between 8th and 9th streets. The Alfred Deakin Visitor Information Centre, 180–190 Deakin Ave (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; free tel 1800/039 043), has very helpful staff, particularly good information on the surrounding national parks and gives out a free map of the town. A video presentation is screened every half-hour between 9.30am and 4.40pm telling the story of the Chaffey brothers, and Mildura and the surrounding area. Rio Vista, the stately home of WB Chaffey, remains intact from this era. Rich combinations of stained glass, tiled floors, Murray pine and jarrah panelling created a stylish home. Today it is connected to the Mildura Regional Art Gallery which includes works by prominent Australian and British artists. The art gallery’s most important piece is Woman Combing Her Hair at the Bath, a pastel work by Edgar Degas. Also from this era, the Grand Hotel still stands proudly in Mildura. Its clean, simple lines are starkly accented by palm trees. It was once the Mildura Coffee Palace and later housed the Chaffey offices. Mildura enjoys average daily temperatures of 20 degrees centigrade in winter and 30 degrees in summer. Its life blood, The Murray is spectacular. Wide and mature, its ancient banks are lined with mighty red river gums. Sulphur crested cockatoos and crimson rosellas nest here. Paddlesteamers parade along the water as colourful reminders of a time when The Murray was a major inland transport route. Today, these converted trading boats await to take you on short or extended cruises, safari tours and romantic dinner cruises along the river. Several fine wineries close to Mildura welcome you for wine tasting. Mildura Wines at Merbein was originally built by the industrious Chaffey brothers. Today a self guiding tour and video provides an informative overview of the property's development. Capogreco's Winery follows the Australian tradition for small family vineyards. Mildura has some excellent accommodation facilities with ample caravan parks, restaurants and motels, providing you with an ideal base for the nearby attractions and the rest of your holiday. Around Mildura
The easiest excursion from Mildura is to RED CLIFFS, some 15km south, with its vineyards and tree-lined streets. The huge Lindemans Karadoc Winery is one of the largest wineries in Australia, where fifty thousand tonnes of grapes are crushed every year. The range of wines for tasting is extensive, and prices are very reasonable (daily 10am–4.30pm). Golden River Zoo
Located in Mildura Victoria, Golden River Zoo features the 'Alcheringa' Spanish Dancing Stallions, daily animal shows, camel rides, riverfront train rides, children's animal nursery, walk-through bird aviaries and animal yards. Hand feed the friendly animals. Free BBQ facilities and shady picnic areas. Hattah-Kulkyne National Park
South of Mildura is the Hattah-Kulkyne National Park. Here, tranquil blue lakes mirror twisted red gums and feed over 200 species of birds. The river and lakes teem with golden and European perch. Hattah Nature Drive and Nature Walk are a perfect introduction to the boundless natural beauty of this park. Murray-Sunset National Park
Away to the south-west of Mildura is the vast Murray-Sunset National Park. This remarkable region contains the largest tracts of wilderness in southeastern Australia, containing 50,000 hectares of salt lakes, sand dunes, pine forests and mallee scrub, providing seemingly endless bush walking. Winter rains wet the salt lakes, breeding algae which turn the lake beds pink. The area is renowned by wilderness photographers for its ever changing hues and untamed beauty. And the native grasslands here are some of the few remaining in all of Victoria. Getting there and around
Mildura is 555km from Melbourne, about as far as you can go in this small state; right on the border of New South Wales, and little over 100km from South Australia, it’s ideally located for onward transport to either. Buses on the Sturt Highway, the major route between Adelaide and Sydney, pass through several times daily, with a 2.30am and 8.45am Greyhound Pioneer service to Adelaide, and an 8.50pm and 3am service to Sydney. Broken Hill, north up Silver City Highway, can be reached by bus via Wentworth (departing Mildura train station Mon, Wed & Fri 7.50am; 3hr 30min; $43; book at the Visitor Information Centre). From Melbourne, there’s a V/Line train–bus connection via Bendigo or via Swan Hill at least once daily (call 13 6196 to book). In terms of local transport, there are buses to Red Cliffs and across the river to Wentworth. Mildura has a good reputation as a place to obtain work as a fruit-picker; the only guaranteed time is in February, when the grape harvest takes place. Unfortunately, this is also the time when the heat is most intense. If you think you could handle it, come around the end of January, the beginning of the eight-week season. Employment National at Shop 2 at the corner of Lime Ave and 9th St (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; tel 03/5021 5227) has information about farm work. During the harvest season you can also phone the Mildura and District Harvest Labour Office (end of January to mid-March; tel 03/5021 1797). Some growers have accommodation but normally you’ll need your own transport and a tent. Food
Healthy food abounds in Mildura’s cafés and restaurants. If you have a vehicle, you can make an enjoyable outing to buy fruit and vegetables from surrounding farms. Otherwise, try The Vegie Mart, 145 9th St, which has a good range and also sells meat, cheeses, fish and poultry. Bay Tree Cafe, 145 8th St. This bright and airy café serves lunches, snacks and excellent cakes. Daily 10am–5pm. Brolga’s Restaurant, Inlander Sun Resort, 373 Deakin Ave (tel 03/5023 3823). Modern Australian cuisine served indoors or by the pool. Hotel Mildura, 124 8th St. A bistro serving classic Australian food and Chinese-inspired dishes. Hudak’s Bakery Café, Langtree Mall. Good continental breads and delicious zucchini slices. Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat 8.30am–3pm. Lauretz of Langtree, 30 Langtree Ave. All you can eat pizza, pasta, soup and salad – suitable for big appetites. Daily from 5pm. The Rendezvous, 34 Langtree Ave (tel 03/5023 1571). Cheap lunches and other meals served in the bistro. There’s also an upmarket restaurant, as well as a bar and courtyard seating. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. Stefano’s Restaurant, at the Grand Hotel Resort, 7th St, opposite the train station (tel 03/5023 0511). The restaurant (Mon–Sat 7pm–midnight; booking essential) is tucked away in the hotel’s cellar. No menu, but the Northern Italian food is excellent. The café-wine bar upstairs (daily 10am–midnight or 1am) is cheaper and serves good pasta, wood-fired pizzas, coffee and cakes. Nightlife
Mildura’s nightlife may not be the world’s greatest, but there’s enough to keep you occupied. Perhaps the best thing to do is to try out one of the clubs, where you can be signed in as a visitor; as an incentive to get you to the gambling machines, there’s lots of inexpensive food and drink. The Mildura Workingman’s Club, on Deakin Avenue between 9th and 10th streets, is one of many in town. Established in 1895, the club reputedly has the world’s longest bar, a continuous undulating island 91m long; unfortunately you no longer get the full effect, as the end of the bar is closed off to make space for poker machines. Another good place for a drink is the vibrantly coloured and modern Sandbar, 43 Langtree Ave (nightly until 1am; light meals until 10pm), which has a courtyard, and puts on live music weekly in the summer and at weekends the rest of the year. Dom’s Nightclub, upstairs from the restaurant of the same name, is open Thursday to Saturday. Another popular nightclub is The Starbar, on 8th Avenue between Lime and Langtree streets. Accommodation
Mildura has lots of accommodation and competition has kept prices low, especially at the motels. Apex Caravan Park, Chaffey Bend. Well-equipped site, right on the Murray by the beach. City Colonial Motor Inn, 24 Madden Ave. New, well-appointed motel near the waterfront, with a solar-heated pool; some rooms have spas. Grand Hotel Resort, 7th St, opposite the train station. Fancier than its bland pub appearance suggests. Offers a variety of accommodation, from basic to highly luxurious, with breakfast included. Has a dining room, games room, spa, sauna, and outdoor swimming pool. Murray View Motel, cnr of 7th St and San Mateo Ave. Family-run, good-value modern motel, with a solar-heated pool. Events
Vintage Car Rally (April) Country Music Festival (September) Mildura Show (October) Jazz and Wine Festival (November)