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Victoria (Eastern Region) |
| Glenrowan | |
| GLENROWAN, 29km on from Benalla, was the site of the Kelly Gang’s last stand. You’re never allowed to forget it: a gigantic effigy of Ned Kelly, in full iron-armour regalia, greets you as you enter town, and there are lots of other tawdry attractions along the highway, such as the Last Stand Show (daily 9.30am–4.30pm; 40min; $15), a “computerized animated theatre” using dummies shuffling around on cue to dramatize the story of the siege – your money’s better spent elsewhere. | |
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last stand itself took place in Siege Street near the train station. Along
the rail lines north of town, a small stone monument marks the spot where
Kelly forced railworkers to rip up a section of the track, to try to
derail the trainful of troopers he had lured to the town; overlooking the
town to the west is Mount Glenrowan, which the bushrangers used as a
lookout.
More interesting and far better value than the Last Stand Show is Kate’s Cottage and Ned Kelly Memorial (daily 9am–5.30pm; $3), a replica of the Kelly home. With its bare earth floor, bark roof and newspaper-lined walls, it speaks volumes of the deprivation that drove the family towards crime. An evocative audiotape narrates Ned’s story from childhood and is interspersed with folk songs inspired by his life. The original homestead, 9km west along Kelly Gap Road, is now nothing more than rubble and a brick chimney. Ned Kelly Story |
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before Ned Kelly became widely known, folklore and ballads were
popularizing the free-ranging bush outlaws as potent symbols of freedom
and resistance to authority. By the time he was 11, Ned Kelly, son
of an alcoholic rustler and a mother who sold illicit liquor, was already
in constant trouble with the police, who considered the whole family
troublemakers; constables in the area were instructed to “endeavour,
whenever the Kellys commit any paltry crime, to bring them to justice …
the object [is] to take their prestige away from them”.
Ned became the accomplice of the established bushranger Harry Power, and by his mid-teens had a string of warrants to his name. Ned’s brother, Dan, was also wanted by the police and, hearing that he had turned up at his mother’s, a policeman set out, drunk and without a warrant, to arrest him. A scuffle ensued and the unsteady constable fell to the floor, hitting his head and allowing Dan to escape. The following day warrants were issued for the arrest of Ned (who was in New South Wales at the time) and Dan for attempted murder; their mother was sentenced to three years’ imprisonment. From this point on, the Kelly gang’s crime spree accelerated and, following the death of three constables in a shoot-out at Stringybark Creek, the biggest manhunt in Australia’s history began, with a £1000 reward offered for the gang’s apprehension. On December 9, 1878 they robbed the bank at Euroa, taking £2000, before moving on to Jerilderie in New South Wales, where another bank was robbed and Kelly penned the famous Jerilderie Letter, describing the “big, ugly, fat-necked, wombat-headed, big-bellied, magpie-legged, narrow-hipped, splay-footed sons of Irish bailiffs or English landlords which is better known as Officers of Justice or Victoria Police” who had forced him onto the wrong side of the law. After a year on the run, the gang formulated a grand plan: they executed Aaron Sherritt, a police informer, in Sebastopol, thus attracting a trainbound posse from nearby Beechworth; this train was derailed at Glenrowan with as much bloodshed as possible before the gang moved on to rob the bank at Benalla and barter hostages for the release of Kelly’s mother. In the event, having already sabotaged the tracks, the gang commandeered the Glenrowan Inn and, in a moment of drunken candour, Kelly detailed his ambush to a schoolteacher who escaped, managing to save the special train. As the armed troopers approached the inn, the gang donned the homemade iron armour that has since become their motif. In the ensuing gunfight Kelly’s comrades were either killed or they committed suicide as the inn was torched, while Ned himself was taken alive, tried by the same judge who had incarcerated his mother, and sentenced to hang. Public sympathies lay strongly with Ned Kelly, and a crowd of five thousand gathered outside Melbourne Gaol on November 11, 1880 for his execution, believing that the 25-year-old bushranger would “die game”. True to form, his last words are said to have been “Such is life.” |
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